TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger

TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger

In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the tactics she used to send Silky Smooth, 5.13c (8a+) in the Red River Gorge last week without training endurance beforehand. She went into the trip feeling like she had low endurance, in fact, but she used specific tactics to send the route in 7 sessions.

There are a lot of little tips and tricks in this episode, and so many observations that Alex has made over the years about endurance climbing, including:

  • Maintaining Composure
  • Breathing
  • Pump Management
  • Nailing Sequences instead of Winging It
  • Eliminating Fear
  • Managing Discomforts
  • Increasing Confidence
  • Having Patience with the Process
  • Dealing with Cold Weather Climbing
  • Eating for Cold Weather Pumpy Climbing

We actually spent quite a bit of time talking about making climbing in the cold more tolerable, so if you're a cold-a-phobe like I used to be, this is a good one to listen to!

I learned some things from this episode, and Alex is really good at calling out issues and then making very relatable, useful suggestions that you can put into practice right away.

Show Links

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TBP 210 :: Crag Dog Training with Jenna Teti

TBP 210 :: Crag Dog Training with Jenna Teti

This episode is a LITTLE bit different than all my others in that we're going to be talking about training, but for a different species: dogs! So many climbers have dogs, and because climbing has gott...

3 Elo 20221h 32min

TBP 209: Calories for Climbing Performance and Body Composition

TBP 209: Calories for Climbing Performance and Body Composition

New Nutrition and Training Program: Reach Coach Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn are hosting an integrated climbing training and nutrition program starting on August 8th, 2022 for 4 weeks! If you want to u...

29 Heinä 202243min

TBP 208 :: Alex and Neely's Biggest Nutrition and Training Mistakes

TBP 208 :: Alex and Neely's Biggest Nutrition and Training Mistakes

Free Masterclass on the 5 Most Common Mistakes in Training and Climbing Next Tuesday we're doing a free, live masterclass on zoom to talk about the 5 most common training and nutrition mistakes climbe...

19 Heinä 20221h 9min

TBP 207 :: Allison Vest on Transitioning from Comp Climbing to Rock Climbing

TBP 207 :: Allison Vest on Transitioning from Comp Climbing to Rock Climbing

Allison Vest is a 27-year-old climber who lives in Salt Lake City. She's originally from Minnesota and moved to Canada when she was 7, where she fell in love with climbing. She had a lot of success co...

13 Heinä 20221h 25min

TBP 206 :: How Matt, Alex, and I Are Approaching Our Mega Projects

TBP 206 :: How Matt, Alex, and I Are Approaching Our Mega Projects

Work with Matt or Alex as Your Climbing Coach Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger are both experienced climbing coaches who will work with you from anywhere in the world to help you create and reach your clim...

6 Heinä 20221h 20min

TBP 205 :: Going from 5.11 projects to 5.11 Warm-ups with Erin Ettenger

TBP 205 :: Going from 5.11 projects to 5.11 Warm-ups with Erin Ettenger

Erin Ettenger is a 25-year-old software engineer who lives in Seattle, Washington. I asked Erin to be on the show because she uses our Route Climbing Training Program and has had some amazing success ...

22 Kesä 202249min

TBP 204: Mistakes Made in Matt Pincus's Own Training Plan

TBP 204: Mistakes Made in Matt Pincus's Own Training Plan

In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about how he trained all winter/spring for his 5.14b project in Wyoming this summer and some mistakes he made along the way. While Matt is a seasoned coach and ...

1 Kesä 20221h 5min

TBP 203 :: Under-the-Radar V14 Boulderer Katie Lamb

TBP 203 :: Under-the-Radar V14 Boulderer Katie Lamb

Katie Lamb is a 24-year-old boulderer out of the Bay area who has proven her abilities over and over with consistent sends of V14 boulders. Included in her resumé are The Swarm (V13/14) in Bishop, New...

25 Touko 20221h 19min

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