TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger

TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger

In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the tactics she used to send Silky Smooth, 5.13c (8a+) in the Red River Gorge last week without training endurance beforehand. She went into the trip feeling like she had low endurance, in fact, but she used specific tactics to send the route in 7 sessions.

There are a lot of little tips and tricks in this episode, and so many observations that Alex has made over the years about endurance climbing, including:

  • Maintaining Composure
  • Breathing
  • Pump Management
  • Nailing Sequences instead of Winging It
  • Eliminating Fear
  • Managing Discomforts
  • Increasing Confidence
  • Having Patience with the Process
  • Dealing with Cold Weather Climbing
  • Eating for Cold Weather Pumpy Climbing

We actually spent quite a bit of time talking about making climbing in the cold more tolerable, so if you're a cold-a-phobe like I used to be, this is a good one to listen to!

I learned some things from this episode, and Alex is really good at calling out issues and then making very relatable, useful suggestions that you can put into practice right away.

Show Links

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TBP 185 :: Running for Climbing Fitness: Does It Work? And How to Avoid Common Mistakes

TBP 185 :: Running for Climbing Fitness: Does It Work? And How to Avoid Common Mistakes

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TBP 184 :: Carbs for Climbers - How Much, What Kind, Timing, and Why

TBP 184 :: Carbs for Climbers - How Much, What Kind, Timing, and Why

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3 Marras 202131min

TBP 183 :: How to Break Into 5.13 with Alex Stiger

TBP 183 :: How to Break Into 5.13 with Alex Stiger

How to Break Into 5.13 with Alex Stiger In the episode, Coach Alex and I tackled the topic of breaking into 5.13 and what you need to do physically and mentally to do it. We both share our experiences...

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TBP 182 :: How He Climbs Outside 4 Days a Week With a Demanding Job

TBP 182 :: How He Climbs Outside 4 Days a Week With a Demanding Job

TBP 182 :: How Brian Lichtenheld Climbs Outside 4 Days a Week With a Demanding Job Brian Lichtenheld is one of my close friends and one of my favorite climbing partners. I asked him to be on the show ...

14 Loka 20211h 9min

TBP 181 :: Understanding and Assessing Your Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson

TBP 181 :: Understanding and Assessing Your Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson

Understanding and Assessing Your Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson Dr. Evan Ingerson is a Doctor of Physical Therapy and Board Certified in Orthopedics who works at his practice Mend in Colorado. Evan i...

7 Loka 20211h 21min

TBP 181 :: Understanding and Assessing Your Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson

TBP 181 :: Understanding and Assessing Your Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson

Understanding and Assessing Your Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson Dr. Evan Ingerson is a Doctor of Physical Therapy and Board Certified in Orthopedics who works at his practice Mend in Colorado. Evan i...

7 Loka 20211h 21min

TBP 180: Grades - How to Keep Your Ego in Check with Matt Pincus

TBP 180: Grades - How to Keep Your Ego in Check with Matt Pincus

About Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt...

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TBP 179 :: How Small Changes to Her Diet Led to Big Changes in Her Climbing

TBP 179 :: How Small Changes to Her Diet Led to Big Changes in Her Climbing

I'm Taking New Nutrition Clients I'm currently taking on 5 new nutrition clients, so if you're looking for help on optimizing your diet for climbing, or you have some other health issues you'd like he...

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