TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger

TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger

In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the tactics she used to send Silky Smooth, 5.13c (8a+) in the Red River Gorge last week without training endurance beforehand. She went into the trip feeling like she had low endurance, in fact, but she used specific tactics to send the route in 7 sessions.

There are a lot of little tips and tricks in this episode, and so many observations that Alex has made over the years about endurance climbing, including:

  • Maintaining Composure
  • Breathing
  • Pump Management
  • Nailing Sequences instead of Winging It
  • Eliminating Fear
  • Managing Discomforts
  • Increasing Confidence
  • Having Patience with the Process
  • Dealing with Cold Weather Climbing
  • Eating for Cold Weather Pumpy Climbing

We actually spent quite a bit of time talking about making climbing in the cold more tolerable, so if you're a cold-a-phobe like I used to be, this is a good one to listen to!

I learned some things from this episode, and Alex is really good at calling out issues and then making very relatable, useful suggestions that you can put into practice right away.

Show Links

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TBP 171 :: Training and Nutrition Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn

TBP 171 :: Training and Nutrition Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn

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TBE 170: Joy Black On Training During Pregnancy

TBE 170: Joy Black On Training During Pregnancy

In the episode, Joy explains how to stay empowered as a pregnant athlete, a brief breakdown of what changes occur during each trimester, and most importantly, she provides direction on what you should...

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TBP 169 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on New Insights for Finger Training

TBP 169 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on New Insights for Finger Training

About Tyler Nelson UPDATE: Matt Pincus recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you'll train strength, skills, power, and work cap...

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TBP 168 :: Coach Alex Stiger on Training Methods for Females

TBP 168 :: Coach Alex Stiger on Training Methods for Females

Females in Climbing  In this episode I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how females can train more efficiently and effectively using their menstrual cycle as a guide. Alex Stiger is a dedicated climb...

28 Huhti 202159min

TBP 167: Coach Lauren Abernathy on Succeeding at More Than One Sport

TBP 167: Coach Lauren Abernathy on Succeeding at More Than One Sport

About Lauren Abernathy Lauren Abernathy is a climbing coach out of Salt Lake City who recently left her corporate job to be a full-time coach. You can find her at www.goodsprayclimbing.com. In this in...

15 Huhti 20211h 11min

TBP 166: ClimbWell Founders on Balancing Climbing and Life

TBP 166: ClimbWell Founders on Balancing Climbing and Life

About ClimbWell ClimbWell is a new organization founded by Remy Franklin, Gaby Colletta, and Blake Cason whose mission is to provide resources for climbers to help them grow in their climbing and in l...

11 Maalis 20211h 14min

TBP 165: Matt Pincus on Training for Bouldering

TBP 165: Matt Pincus on Training for Bouldering

About Matt Pincus Announcement: Matt recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you'll train strength, skills, power, and work capaci...

8 Maalis 20211h 5min

TBP 164 :: Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn on Getting through Injuries without Losing Your Mind

TBP 164 :: Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn on Getting through Injuries without Losing Your Mind

About Alex Stiger Coach Alex Stiger recently had surgery on her finger to repair a ligament she tore when she accidentally smashed it on a hold while bouldering. I also just had surgery on my wrist (s...

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