EP 255: Dave MacLeod Returns — Moving the Needle on Your Climbing, the Value of Daydreaming, & How to Thrive in Your 40s

EP 255: Dave MacLeod Returns — Moving the Needle on Your Climbing, the Value of Daydreaming, & How to Thrive in Your 40s

Dave MacLeod is one of the best all-around climbers in the world. He returns to the podcast to talk about his new book, Moving the Needle. We discuss the simple decisions that led to his success, getting the basics right, how to climb harder in your 40s, the value of daydreaming, writing books, how diet affects mood, Paul Saladino’s meat and fruit approach, how to thrive on a keto diet, metabolic health, LCL cholesterol, seed oils, alcohol, the state of scientific research, and much more.

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

AG1:

drinkAG1.com/NUGGET

Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.

Arc’teryx:

Women’s climbing clothing

Men’s climbing clothing

Check out the Psiphon and Serratus Alpine Kits launching January 15th.

PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.

The NUG:

frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

Check out my new portable hangboard.

Tindeq:

tindeq.com

Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-macleod-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:34) – Themes for the today’s podcast

(00:04:59) – ‘Moving the Needle’

(00:10:54) – How curiosity feeds consistency

(00:17:44) – Simple decisions that move the needle

(00:21:55) – Time x mileage x variety

(00:34:09) – Balancing projecting & volume

(00:41:08) – Tree crimping

(00:43:50) – Almost daily training

(00:49:08) – The basics

(01:00:38) – When to end bouldering sessions

(01:06:38) – Rolling with the punches

(01:13:31) – Managing training load & staying in the game

(01:24:43) – Finger training

(01:30:09) – An unlikely breakthrough (FA of ‘Bultitude’ V14)

(01:37:09) – Finger strength PRs

(01:43:42) – How to climb harder in your 40s

(01:59:54) – Taking short breaks

(02:02:56) – Daydreaming

(02:05:30) – Making it hard to fail

(02:13:27) – One thing at a time

(02:17:19) – Writing books

(02:25:25) – Factors that led to sending ‘Rhapsody’ E11

(02:32:16) – Books vs. podcasts

(02:34:35) – Confidence & conflict

(02:42:06) – Dave’s experiment with a Western Diet

(02:46:48) – How our diet can affect mood

(02:52:26) – Paul Saladino, keto, fruit, & metabolic health

(03:10:37) – Why Dave keeps coming back to keto

(03:15:52) – How much protein Dave eats on keto

(03:19:36) – Energy & weight management

(03:26:40) – LDL Cholesterol

(03:40:25) – Kitavan Islanders, heart disease, & lifestyle factors

(03:46:51) – Seed oils & alcohol

(03:49:25) – A need for unbiased scientific research

(03:54:50) Where to buy Dave’s book

Jaksot(381)

EP 43: Emily Harrington — Projecting ‘Golden Gate’ in a Day, Embracing Fear, and Cupcake Batter Ice Cream

EP 43: Emily Harrington — Projecting ‘Golden Gate’ in a Day, Embracing Fear, and Cupcake Batter Ice Cream

Emily Harrington is a professional climber whose accomplishments span the climbing spectrum. From winning National Championships, to summiting Mt. Everest, to free climbing El Capitan, Emily has done ...

9 Marras 202059min

EP 42: Hailey Franklin Fultz — Strength + Nutrition, Fat Loss Strategies, and “Healthifying” Dessert

EP 42: Hailey Franklin Fultz — Strength + Nutrition, Fat Loss Strategies, and “Healthifying” Dessert

Hailey Franklin Fultz is a former competitive dancer, and a nutrition coach. For the past five years, she has used nutrition to help Matt Fultz (her husband) become one of the top boulderers in the wo...

2 Marras 20202h 1min

Follow-Up: Drew Ruana — Recent V16s (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Drew Ruana — Recent V16s (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Drew Ruana. We talked about his process of sending 'Box Therapy' and 'Creature From the Black Lagoon', a...

29 Loka 20208min

EP 41: Tonde Katiyo (Part 2) — RIC as a Tool, the Value of Route Setting, and Keeping Training in Perspective

EP 41: Tonde Katiyo (Part 2) — RIC as a Tool, the Value of Route Setting, and Keeping Training in Perspective

This is part 2 of my conversation with Tonde Katiyo. We talked about RIC (Risk, Intensity, Complexity) as a tool for communicating about difficulty, about the appropriate responses to different types ...

26 Loka 20201h 13min

EP 40: Tonde Katiyo (Part 1) — Discrimination vs. Privilege, and Making a Better World by Making Better Climbing

EP 40: Tonde Katiyo (Part 1) — Discrimination vs. Privilege, and Making a Better World by Making Better Climbing

Tonde Katiyo is a professional route setter, a passionate climber, a father, and a coach. His mother is French and his father is Zimbabwean. We talked about the connection between route setting and co...

19 Loka 20201h 35min

Follow-Up: Ethan Pringle — The Stories We Tell Ourselves (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Ethan Pringle — The Stories We Tell Ourselves (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ethan Pringle. We talked about surfing, about the stories we tell ourselves about what we can and can’t ...

16 Loka 202018min

EP 39: Matt Fultz — ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, Strength Before Weight, and Using Your Build as a Gift

EP 39: Matt Fultz — ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, Strength Before Weight, and Using Your Build as a Gift

Matt Fultz is a professional climber who is at the top of the bouldering game right now. We talked about sending ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, a typical day of projecting, deadlifting for finger strength, p...

12 Loka 20201h 2min

EP 38: Solomon Barth — Up-Down-Ups, Veganism, and Working to Live (and Make a Difference)

EP 38: Solomon Barth — Up-Down-Ups, Veganism, and Working to Live (and Make a Difference)

Solomon Barth is a Stanford University graduate and software engineer. We talked about Solomon’s impressive two-week trip to Smith Rock, working with Alex Bridgewater to improve his footwork and bulle...

5 Loka 20201h 26min

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