Episode 21: WTF is Finishing
Hairspring30 Touko 2024

Episode 21: WTF is Finishing

Erik & Max attempt to answer the question, ‘What separates good finishing from bad finishing?’ It is a question that requires them to go through all the various finishing techniques you’re likely to see in detail, explain why the Le Mans caseback is, sort of, ugly, and ask if you should care about inner angles. Plus, what should Indiana Jones have worn in Raiders of the Lost Ark?


Links Mentioned:


Memorial Day Article & Great Historic Watch Accounts:


https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/through-watches-those-who-have-died-in-service-of-their-country-are-remembered


https://www.instagram.com/niccoloy/


https://www.instagram.com/watchesofespionage/


Finishing:


https://perezcope.com/2021/08/08/panerai-in-house-movements-a-pam-of-worms/


Côtes de Genève:


https://www.watchprosite.com/horological-meandering/what-makes-for-really-good-c%C3%B4tes-de-gen%C3%A8ve-/17.1298116.11050241/


https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/up-close-and-personal-with-the-2023-rolex-le-mans-daytona-ref-126529ln#&gid=1&pid=14


https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/philippe-dufour-crafts-watches


https://monochrome-watches.com/laurent-ferrier-galet-classic-tourbillon-double-spiral-reviewing-an-understated-masterpiece-photos-specs-and-price/


Anglage:


Flat 45-degree Anglage:


https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-omega-speedmaster-professional-moonwatch-master-chronometer-with-co-axial-caliber-3861#&gid=1&pid=4


Bercé or Bombé Style:


https://www.acollectedman.com/pages/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-two


https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/watch-spotting-kari-voutilainen-interview#&gid=1&pid=8


Zero Chamfering:


https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/grand-seiko-hi-beat-36000-gmt-limited-edition-sbgj227-peacock-hands-on#&gid=1&pid=7


Matte or Frosted Bridges:


https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/with-the-romain-gauthier-logical-one-in-white-gold


https://watchesbysjx.com/2022/09/sylvain-pinaud-origine-review.html


https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/06/lange-sohne-handwerkskunst-reference-guide.html


Skeletonization:


https://hairspring.com/finds/43032-vacheron-constantin-skeleton-quantieme-perpetuel-platinum/


Black Polish:


https://monochrome-watches.com/hands-on-petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-specs-price/


https://hairspring.com/finds/kikuchi-nakagawa-murakumo/


Examples:


No Finishing Valjoux 7731:


https://thewatchspotblog.com/breitling-superocean-ref-2005-valjoux-cal-7731/


Industrially Finished Omega 3861:


https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watch-omega-speedmaster-moonwatch-professional-co-axial-master-chronometer-chronograph-42-mm-31030425001002


Vintage Hand Finished Patek Philippe Calibre 12-20:


https://hairspring.com/exclusives/patek-philippe/592-salmon-dial-calatrava-steel/


https://revolutionwatch.com/history-of-the-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-chronograph/


Traditional Finishing Style Performed Today:


https://www.acollectedman.com/products/philippe-dufour-grande-et-petite-sonnerie


Contemporary, More Innovative Finishing:


https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/07/petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-review.html


https://watchesbysjx.com/2018/04/introducing-the-romain-gauthier-insight-micro-rotor-in-black-titanium.html


16/1860:


https://hairspring.com/finds/16-1860-2-chopard-luc-calibre-1-96-2/


Only Wrist:


https://hairspring.com/exclusives/eberhard/11538-scientigraf-steel/


https://hairspring.com/finds/us-navy-tornek-rayville-tr-900/

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Jaksot(96)

Episode 96: Q&A (Pt. 8)

Episode 96: Q&A (Pt. 8)

This month’s Q&A went all over the map. Erik & Max answer the Ferrari Luce equivalent from the Holy Trinity, market updates, if Cartier hype has passed, the one watch collection, and the greatest neo-...

9 Kesä 1h 24min

Episode 95: A. Langer One (Pt. 2, 2000-Present)

Episode 95: A. Langer One (Pt. 2, 2000-Present)

Part 2 of Episode 66 has finally come to pass. This episode chronicles the notable history of A. Lange & Söhne from acquisition by Richemont and Günter Blümlein’s passing in 2001 until the present. Th...

25 Touko 1h 37min

Episode 94: Dissecting an Auction Catalogue & Sports Betting

Episode 94: Dissecting an Auction Catalogue & Sports Betting

Erik & Max pick apart the three big sales happening this spring, to help give a framework for analyzing collectors' behavior, see what’s changing in the market, and have some fun. Then, the game is on...

14 Touko 1h 19min

Episode 93: Winners & Blunders 2026

Episode 93: Winners & Blunders 2026

Watch & Wonders has come and past, but what of this year’s releases might be enduring? And what, if anything, was a complete mistake? This is the Winners & Blunders of 2026, where for every pick in th...

29 Huhti 1h 3min

Episode 92: Pub Trivia

Episode 92: Pub Trivia

Collectors love a good fun fact, unknown history, or unexpected trivia. This episode is full of all of that. From co-axial Nautilus and a Rolex QP to Houdini and Carl Jung, it’s all here. We guarantee...

22 Huhti 1h 10min

Episode 91: Enamel 101

Episode 91: Enamel 101

A longstanding craft which has graced some of the greatest wristwatches made, this episode studies the basics of enamel dials and their application in wristwatches. From historical roots until work be...

10 Huhti 1h 6min

Episode 90: Kari Voutilainen

Episode 90: Kari Voutilainen

This week Erik & Max are thrilled to be joined by legend of independent watchmaking Kari Voutilainen. We explore the early days of branching out on his own, what makes him excited in watchmaking, the ...

17 Maalis 43min

Episode 89: Retroactive Bidding Circa 2016

Episode 89: Retroactive Bidding Circa 2016

Erik & Max time travel to 2016 to attempt to spend various budgets this week. It’s retroactive bidding, with the best 10k, 50k, and 200k picks all included. From cloissoné Polerouters to Patek bracele...

11 Maalis 1h 28min

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