​​EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama

​​EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama

Tony Yaniro is a climbing legend and the first-ever person to redpoint a 5.13b with his ascent of The Grand Illusion in 1979. We talked about his early years, handmaking cams in his garage, developing The Needles, inventing the first campus board, training for 5.14 using tin foil, the controversy of chipping routes at Leslie Gulch, his legendary homewall on wheels, building a climbing gym, the importance of respecting your body, and much more.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tony-yaniro

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:49) – Tony’s early climbing

(00:11:01) – Sticky rubber & homemade cams

(00:15:32) – 5 steps ahead

(00:21:12) – Hangdogging & The Grand Illusion (world’s first 5.13b)

(00:26:45) – Snowbird, backlash, & soloers

(00:30:08) – The Needles

(00:37:40) – Training for Scarface with tin foil

(00:40:58) – Pull-ups & Jim Collins

(00:45:57) – Quitting climbing the second time

(00:49:59) – The Winnebago

(00:52:50) – Making climbing holds

(00:57:07) – Leslie Gulch

(01:05:11) – City of Rocks

(01:10:24) – Drawing the line

(01:16:12) – Old school bolting

(01:24:40) – Riggins

(01:28:08) – Hideous Thing

(01:30:32) – Tony’s career & weekend climbing

(01:36:29) – Building a climbing gym

(01:41:41) – Tony’s climbing these days

(01:43:13) – Listen to your body

(01:46:17) – Respect your body

(01:47:50) – What excites Tony

Jaksot(381)

EP 252: Justin Salas — Life As a Legally Blind Climber, Building Mental Maps, and Being a Changemaker

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EP 251: Eric Jerome — The Benefits of Caring Less, Seeking the Minimal Effective Dose, and Developing New Boulders

EP 251: Eric Jerome — The Benefits of Caring Less, Seeking the Minimal Effective Dose, and Developing New Boulders

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EP 250: Beth Rodden — Overcoming Fear, the Unwinnable Game of Climbing, and the Power of Human Stories

EP 250: Beth Rodden — Overcoming Fear, the Unwinnable Game of Climbing, and the Power of Human Stories

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EP 249: Chris Sharma — Finishing Hard Things, Reinventing Yourself, and Finding the Sweet Spot

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EP 248: Thomas Huber — Exploring the Impossible, the Stone Monkey Era, and Finding Freedom in the Mountains

EP 248: Thomas Huber — Exploring the Impossible, the Stone Monkey Era, and Finding Freedom in the Mountains

Thomas Huber is a German rock climbing and mountaineering legend. We talked about his most recent expedition to Pakistan, how to have fun at basecamp, exploring the impossible, his first trip to Buoux...

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EP 247: Todd Perkins — Protecting Moe’s Valley, and What We Can Do to Help

EP 247: Todd Perkins — Protecting Moe’s Valley, and What We Can Do to Help

Moe’s Valley access is under threat! Todd Perkins returns to the show to talk about what is happening with Moe’s Valley, what actions are being taken to protect it, and what we can do to help. You can...

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EP 246: Fundamentals — How to Break a Plateau

EP 246: Fundamentals — How to Break a Plateau

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 6 of 6) — If you climb long enough, you’ll inevitably hit a plateau. In part 6, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls for how to break through plateaus and continue p...

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EP 245: A Political Discussion About the Health Crisis, Foreign Wars, the Future of Democracy, and More | ft. Kaizen Asiedu

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Kaizen Asiedu is a Harvard graduate in philosophy, an Emmy winner, and a life coach. We talked about our political backgrounds and values, what happened to RFK Jr, the health crisis in the US, foreign...

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