EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)

EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)

Connor Bodin climbed 30 minutes per day for 100 consecutive days to boost his endurance, and it worked. His critical force went from 30% of bodyweight to an impressive 44% of bodyweight, and his climbing standard went from 5.11+ to 5.12+. In this Patron Spotlight, Connor shares exactly what he did during the 100-day experiment, what he learned, what he plans to do next time, Dave MacLeod’s original experiment that inspired him, and more. Think you’ll try it out?

Become a Patron for a chance to be featured in the next Patron Spotlight! 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/connor-bodin

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:11) – The 100-Day Experiment

(00:11:14) – The results (Critical Force & climbing)

(00:20:07) – High-Low training

(00:24:11) – The benefit of simplicity

(The following topics are available for Patrons only)

(00:29:17) – Junk mileage vs. movement practice

(00:35:33) – Plans for future experiments

(00:38:11) – The power of the pull-up

(00:44:35) – Building your own board

(00:48:46) – The benefits of an adjustable wall

(00:52:05) – Climbing shoes

(00:58:56) – Connor’s next experiment

(01:03:36) – Dave MacLeod’s experiment

(01:10:34) – Chris Sommer’s interview with Tim Ferriss

(01:13:22) – One-arm vs. two-arm hanging

(01:19:30) – Patron Spotlights

(01:21:09) – Tough to be a pro

(01:24:19) – Rekindled psych

Jaksot(381)

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

Dr. Keith Baar is a leading expert in tendon and ligament engineering and repair. Natalie Gilmore is a PhD student focused on climbing-specific research. We talked about the results of their recent re...

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EP 265: Katie Lambert Returns — How to Eat on a Climbing Day, Ingredients to Avoid, Nutrition on a Budget, Farm-to-School, & More

EP 265: Katie Lambert Returns — How to Eat on a Climbing Day, Ingredients to Avoid, Nutrition on a Budget, Farm-to-School, & More

Katie Lambert is an accomplished all-around climber with a master's in nutrition. We talked about how to get more value out of climbing trips, her training and cold plunge routine, perimenopause, her ...

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​​EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama

​​EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama

Tony Yaniro is a climbing legend and the first-ever person to redpoint a 5.13b with his ascent of The Grand Illusion in 1979. We talked about his early years, handmaking cams in his garage, developing...

17 Maalis 20251h 55min

EP 263: Adam Ondra — A Conversation With the Best Climber in the World

EP 263: Adam Ondra — A Conversation With the Best Climber in the World

Adam Ondra is the greatest climber of all time. We talked about his trip to Smith Rock in 2018, onsighting Just Do It, what he was like as a kid, his 9c projects, Soudain Seul 9A, the Imhotep project,...

10 Maalis 20251h 51min

EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America

EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America

Max Didier is a Chilean big wall climber and alpinist turned boulderer. We talked about leaving the Air Force to climb, the value of exploration and adventure, his trip to India, maintaining simplicit...

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EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path

EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path

Chris Sharma and Ron Kauk return to the podcast for a philosophical chat. We discussed early bouldering in Camp 4, the essence of climbing, the source of motivation, reinventing your climbing identity...

24 Helmi 20252h

EP 260: Caroline Ciavaldini — The Magic and Selfishness of Competition, Becoming Adventurous, and Gentle Feminism

EP 260: Caroline Ciavaldini — The Magic and Selfishness of Competition, Becoming Adventurous, and Gentle Feminism

Caroline Ciavaldini is a French professional climber specializing in sport, trad, and multi-pitch climbing. We talked about growing up in La Réunion, early climbing, her mother’s suicide, the magic an...

17 Helmi 20252h 30min

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