EP 274: Seneida Biendarra — Onsighting Without Sight, Designing Better Gear, and Wielding the Empathy Gun

EP 274: Seneida Biendarra — Onsighting Without Sight, Designing Better Gear, and Wielding the Empathy Gun

Seneida Biendarra is the 2023 US National Champion in the women’s B2 (severely blind) category. We talked about losing her vision as a teenager, her current visual experience, creating mental maps of the world, finding freedom in risk, designing outdoor gear, the world of paraclimbing and the adaptive community, sight guiding, the empathy gun, embracing chapters in life, and much more.

Arc’teryx:

Women’s climbing clothing

Men’s climbing clothing

Check out the NEW Kragg Collection.

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

Rúngne:

rungne.info/nugget

Use code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/seneida-biendarra

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:00) – 1950s appliances

(00:05:08) – A fresh start

(00:07:49) – Seneida’s visual experience

(00:10:00) – Losing vision

(00:17:02) – The map

(00:19:38) – Visual experience continued

(00:23:35) – An invisible disability

(00:25:56) – Daily living vs. climbing

(00:29:44) – Meeting other blind climbers

(00:36:08) – Crashes

(00:39:34) – Risk & freedom

(00:44:48) – Early climbing

(00:48:32) – An onsight philosophy

(00:52:19) – Visualization

(00:55:09) – Lights out

(01:01:49) – Accessibility tools & basketball

(01:05:59) – Designing gear

(01:13:06) – Parents & childhood

(01:17:08) – Backpacking

(01:19:21) – Daily living continued

(01:28:55) – Nate

(01:31:10) – Sight Guiding

(01:37:40) – The world of paraclimbing

(01:41:28) – 2028 Olympics

(01:46:09) – Identity & community

(01:49:51) – Mourning, normalizing, & sympathy

(01:53:31) – How to be a supportive sighted person

(01:56:25) – Empathy gun

(02:01:09) – Parts of ourselves

(02:04:45) – Interpersonal bonds

(02:12:39) – Embracing chapters

(02:18:53) – Self-driving taxis

(02:21:55) – Spotlighting the adaptive community

(02:26:12) – “You belong more than you think you do.”

(02:29:45) – New designs

Jaksot(385)

EP 241: Fundamentals — How to Train Your Fingers

EP 241: Fundamentals — How to Train Your Fingers

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 4 of 6) — Everybody wants stronger fingers. In this episode, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls when it comes to building functional finger strength for climbing. ...

30 Syys 20241h 41min

EP 240: Alex Megos — Post-Olympic Sending Spree, the America Tour, and Making Changes to Reach His Full Potential

EP 240: Alex Megos — Post-Olympic Sending Spree, the America Tour, and Making Changes to Reach His Full Potential

Alex Megos is a German professional climber and a living legend. He recorded this podcast from the Flatanger campground during his recent sending spree in Norway. We talked about sending Change 9b+, w...

23 Syys 20241h 18min

BONUS: Ron Kauk — A Call for Future Generations

BONUS: Ron Kauk — A Call for Future Generations

Another phone call with Ron Kauk.Donate to Sacred Rok if you wish:sacredrok.org

19 Syys 202443min

EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training

EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3, we step into the weight room. We cover weight training fundamentals, including the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, the big 4...

16 Syys 20241h 32min

EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong

EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong

Girls Gone Hueco is an all-female bouldering film now available on Vimeo. In this episode, I sit down with V11 climber Midori Buechli and filmmaker Long Truong to discuss the making of the film, the p...

15 Syys 20241h 21min

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limi...

9 Syys 20242h 9min

EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall

EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2, we share our top tips for training on spray walls and home walls. We cover training setup considerations, route setting tips, best apps for saving and ...

2 Syys 20241h 10min

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain

Dr. Amy Frugé (DPT) is a former Martial Arts World Champion, rock climber, and the founder of Converge Physical Therapy. We talked about extremity and finger pain from unusual sources, how to maintain...

27 Elo 20242h

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