Paper Sewing Patterns, Part 2

Paper Sewing Patterns, Part 2

Ellen Curtis Demorest and Ebeneezer Butterick are the two names most often invoked as the start of multi-sized patterns printed for home sewists. Once they proved it was a viable business, a lot of other offerings appeared.

Research:

  • Alcega, Joan de. “Libro de geometria, practica y traça.” Madrid.1580. Accessed online:https://www.loc.gov/resource/gdcwdl.wdl_07333/
  • Aldarondo, Abner. “A Master Tailor’s Manual.” Folger Shakespeare Library. Jan. 10, 2023. https://www.folger.edu/blogs/collation/a-master-tailors-manual/
  • Bertrand, J.E. “Descriptions des arts et métiers faites ou approuvées.” l'Imprimerie de la Société Typographique. 1780. Accessed online: https://play.google.com/store/books/details?id=SAWFeeXzMgYC&rdid=book-SAWFeeXzMgYC&rdot=1
  • Boullay, Benoit. “Le Tailleur Sincère, Contenant Ce Qu'il Faut Observer Pour Bien Tracer, Couper.” (Reproduction.) Hachette Livre Bnf. 2012.
  • Buckley, Cheryl. “On the Margins: Theorizing the History and Significance of Making and Designing Clothes at Home.” Journal of Design History, vol. 11, no. 2, 1998, pp. 157–71. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/1316192
  • Crane, Ellen Bicknell. “Historic Homes and Institutions and Genealogical and Personal memoirs of Worcester County, Massachusetts.” Lewis Publishing Company. 1907. Accessed online: https://books.google.com/books?id=nfhSZxL8bTEC&source=gbs_navlinks_s
  • Crossland, Samantha R. “Made in Minneapolis, sewn all over the world.” Hennepin History. 2021, Vol. 80, No. 2. https://hennepinhistory.org/from-the-magazine-made-in-minneapolis/
  • Demorest, Ellen. “The Question of Labor. Women’s Work and Wages.” New York Times. Nov. 18, 1863. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1863/11/18/78710875.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0
  • “The Educational Legacy of Simplicity Pattern Company.” Simplicity Patterns. September 2024. https://simplicity.com/blog/the-educational-legacy-of-simplicity-pattern-company
  • Emery, Joy Spanabel. “A History of the Paper Pattern Industry: The Home Dressmaking Fashion Revolution.” Bloomsbury Visual Arts. 2020.
  • Freyle, Diego de. “Geometria Y Traça Para El Oficio De Los Sastres.” Sevilla, Spain. 1588. Accessed online: https://archive.org/details/1588-geometria-y-traca-para-el-oficio-de-los-sastres/page/n1/mode/2up
  • Johnson, Susan. “’Madame’ Demorest—The Woman at the Top of a 19-Century Fashion Empire.” Museum of the City of New York. April 15, 2020. https://www.mcny.org/story/madame-demorest-woman-top-19-century-fashion-empire
  • The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Ebenezer Butterick". Encyclopedia Britannica, 25 May. 2025, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Ebenezer-Butterick
  • Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Ellen Louise Curtis Demorest." Encyclopedia Britannica, 11 Nov. 2024, https://www.britannica.com/money/Ellen-Louise-Curtis-Demorest
  • “Demorest’s Illustrated Monthly and Mme. Demorest’s Mirror of Fashions.” April 1865. https://ia802801.us.archive.org/8/items/demorestsillustr00newy/demorestsillustr00newy_bw.pdf
  • “Design Group Americas Voluntarily Files for Chapter 11 Protection, Initiates Sale Process Aimed at Maximizing Value Through Going Concern Transactions.” BusinessWire. July 3, 2025. https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20250703734892/en/Design-Group-Americas-Voluntarily-Files-for-Chapter-11-Protection-Initiates-Sale-Process-Aimed-at-Maximizing-Value-Through-Going-Concern-Transactions
  • “Joseph M. Shapiro of Simplicity, 79.” New York Times. July 31, 1968. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1968/07/31/76959179.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0
  • “Millinery.” New York Times. Nov. 7, 1853. https://www.newspapers.com/image/20309463/?match=1&terms=%22Mme.%20Demorest%22
  • “The 40’s from The War Effort to The New Look - Championing Fashion that Matters.” Simplicity Patterns. September 2024. https://simplicity.com/blog/vogue-patterns-an-evolution-of-american-style
  • Queen, James and William Lapsley. “The Tailor’s Instructor.” Philadelphia. 1809. Accessed online: https://dn790007.ca.archive.org/0/items/taylorsinstructo00quee/taylorsinstructo00quee.pdf
  • Reyes-Martinez, Marcos A. “The Vara: A Standard of Length With a Not-So-Standard History.” National Institute of Standards and Technology. Oct. 11, 2019. https://www.nist.gov/blogs/taking-measure/vara-standard-length-not-so-standard-history
  • Walsh, Margaret. “The Democratization of Fashion: The Emergence of the Women’s Dress Pattern Industry.” The Journal of American History, vol. 66, no. 2, 1979, pp. 299–313. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/1900878

See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

Jaksot(2628)

The Lowry War

The Lowry War

The Lowry Gang fought back against Confederate authorities during the U.S. Civil War and during Reconstruction they came to be viewed as either Robin Hood-esque folk heroes or as dangerous murderers and thieves, depending on who you were asking. Research: Leland, Elizabeth. “Coming Home to the Land of the Lumbee.” Our State. 9/6/2017. https://www.ourstate.com/lumbee-american-indians/ Currie, Jefferson. “Henry Berry Lowry.” Tar Heel Junior Historian, Spring 2000. https://www.ncpedia.org/biography/lowry-henry “Proclamation of Outlawry for Henry Berry Lowry and his band of robbers.” https://www.ncpedia.org/printpdf/13809 North Carolina Museum of History. “Community Class Series: Henry Berry Lowrie, Lumbee Legend.” With Nancy Strickland Fields, Museum of the Southeast American Indian; Dr. Lawrence T. Locklear, University of North Carolina at Pembroke; and Dr. Malinda Maynor Lowery, Emory University. Via YouTube. Sep 23, 2021. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EUALvny7DZ4 Lowery, Malinda Maynor. “Lumbee Indians in the Jim Crow South: Race, Identity and the Making of a Nation.” University of North Carolina Press. 2010.  Oakley, Christopher Arris. “The Legend of Henry Berry Lowry: Strike at the Wind and the Lumbee Indians of North Carolina.” The Mississippi Quarterly , Vol. 60, No. 1, Special issue on American Indian Literatures and Cultures in the South (Winter 2006-07). Via JSTOR. https://www.jstor.org/stable/10.2307/26467042 Lumbee Tribe of North Carolina. “History and Culture.” 2017. https://www.lumbeetribe.com/history-and-culture. Lowery, Malinda Maynor. “The Lumbee Indians: An American Struggle.” University of North Carolina Press. 2018. Kays, Holly. “Cherokee chief testifies against Lumbee recognition.” Smoky Mountain News. 1/7/2020. https://smokymountainnews.com/archives/item/28263-cherokee-chief-testifies-against-lumbee-recognition# Townsend, George Alfred. “The Swamp outlaws, or, The North Carolina bandits : being a complete history of the modern Rob Roys and Robin Hoods.” New-York : Robert M. DeWitt. 1872. “TESTIMONY OF PRINCIPAL CHIEF RICHARD SNEED EASTERN BAND OF CHEROKEE INDIANS.” https://www.congress.gov/116/meeting/house/110282/witnesses/HHRG-116-II24-Wstate-SneedR-20191204.pdf Harper’s Weekly. “The North Carolina Bandits.” March 30, 1872. McElroy, Jenny. “The Lowry War.” NCPedia. 3/1/2008.  https://www.ncpedia.org/history/cw-1900/lowry-war See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

22 Elo 202239min

SYMHC Classics: Alice Hamilton and Occupational Medicine

SYMHC Classics: Alice Hamilton and Occupational Medicine

This 2019 episode covers a trailblazer in science and medicine. Hamilton dedicated her life to improving the workplace standards for laborers in an effort to reduce illnesses that came from working with toxic chemicals.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

20 Elo 202226min

Behind the Scenes Minis: Butterflies and Photos

Behind the Scenes Minis: Butterflies and Photos

Holly and Tracy discuss the ways they encountered butterflies in their childhoods and how people can help conservation efforts at home. They also talk through some of the stories of Weegee's life that didn't make it into the episode. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

19 Elo 202219min

Weegee the Famous

Weegee the Famous

Weegee is often cited as having been an influence on artists like Diane Arbus and Andy Warhol. He also influenced the world in how New York was viewed, because of his stark, black and white photos of the city. Research:  Smith, Roberta. “He Made Blood and Guts Familiar and Fabulous.” New York Times. Jan. 19, 2012. https://www.nytimes.com/2012/01/20/arts/design/weegee-at-international-center-of-photography-review.html Cotter, Holland. “'Unknown Weegee,' on Photographer Who Made the Night Noir.” New York Times. June 9, 2006. “Weegee.” Jewish Virtual Library. https://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/weegee Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Weegee". Encyclopedia Britannica, 8 Jun. 2022, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Weegee Vermare, Pauline. “New York City, by Weegee the Famous.” Magnum Photos. Feb. 10, 2020. https://www.magnumphotos.com/arts-culture/society-arts-culture/new-york-city-by-weegee-the-famous/ Mallon, Thomas. “Weegee the Famous, the Voyeur and Exhibitionist.” The New Yorker. May 21, 2018. https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2018/05/28/weegee-the-famous-the-voyeur-and-exhibitionist Weegee. “Weegee: The Autobiography (Annotated).” The Devault-Graves Agency. 2016. Bonanos, Christopher. “Flash: The Making of Weegee the Famous.” Henry Holt and Company. 2018. Weegee. “Naked City.” Da Capo Press. 2002. Kilston, Lyra. “Weegee's Naked Hollywood.” Time. Nov. 28, 2011.  https://time.com/3783214/weegees-naked-hollywood-at-moca/ See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

17 Elo 202239min

The Developing History of Monarch Butterflies

The Developing History of Monarch Butterflies

Monarch butterflies are still in the middle of their story – and it’s one that is precarious. Humans are still trying to figure out a lot about them, and aspects of the monarch story have been misrepresented over the years. Research: Monarch Joint Venture: https://monarchjointventure.org/ “Monarch Butterfly.” The National Wildlife Federation. https://www.nwf.org/Educational-Resources/Wildlife-Guide/Invertebrates/Monarch-Butterfly Sutherland, Douglas W.S. and Jean Adams, ed. “The Monarch Butterfly – Our National Insect.” Part of “Insect Potpourri: Adventures in Entomology.” CRC Press. 1992. Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Danaus". Encyclopedia Britannica, 15 Feb. 2018, https://www.britannica.com/topic/Danaus-Greek-mythology Kathleen S. Murphy. “Collecting Slave Traders: James Petiver, Natural History, and the British Slave Trade.” The William and Mary Quarterly, vol. 70, no. 4, 2013, pp. 637–70. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.5309/willmaryquar.70.4.0637 Müller-Wille, Staffan. "Carolus Linnaeus". Encyclopedia Britannica, 19 May. 2022, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Carolus-Linnaeus Stearns, Raymond Phineas. “James Petiver: Promoter of Natural Science, c.1663-1718.” American Antiquarian Society. October 1952. https://www.americanantiquarian.org/proceedings/44807240.pdf “Mark Catesby (1683 – 1749).” Catesby Commemorative Trust. 2012. https://web.archive.org/web/20130906122250/http://www.catesbytrust.org/mark-catesby/ Smith-Rogers, Sheryl. “Maiden of the Monarchs.” TEXAS PARKS & WILDLIFE. March 2016. https://monarchjointventure.org/images/uploads/documents/legacy_monarch_catalina_trail_article.pdf Scott, Alec. “Where do you go, my lovelies?” University of Toronto Magazine. Aug. 24, 2015. https://magazine.utoronto.ca/campus/history/where-do-you-go-my-lovelies-norah-and-fred-urquhart-monarch-butterfly-migration/ Hannibal, Mary Ellen. “How you can help save the monarch butterfly -- and the planet.” TEDTalk. April 28, 2020. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvJTbegktKc Jarvis CE, Oswald PH. The collecting activities of James Cuninghame FRS on the voyage of Tuscan to China (Amoy) between 1697 and 1699. Notes Rec R Soc Lond. 2015 Jun 20;69(2):135–53. doi: 10.1098/rsnr.2014.0043. “The US Endangered Species Act.” World Wildlife Federation. https://www.worldwildlife.org/pages/the-us-endangered-species-act#:~:text=Passed%20with%20bipartisan%20support%20in,a%20species%20should%20be%20protected. Associated Press. “Beloved monarch butterflies are now listed as endangered.” WBEZ Chicago. July 23, 2022. https://www.wbez.org/stories/beloved-monarch-butterflies-are-now-listed-as-endangered/0f3cf69b-8376-42eb-af0a-9e8b8b4ab6b3 Garland, Mark S., and Andrew K. Davis. “An Examination of Monarch Butterfly (Danaus Plexippus) Autumn Migration in Coastal Virginia.” The American Midland Naturalist, vol. 147, no. 1, 2002, pp. 170–74. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/3083045 “Natural History – Monarch Butterfly.” Center for Biological Diversity. https://www.biologicaldiversity.org/species/invertebrates/monarch_butterfly/natural_history.html Catesby, Mark. “A Monarch butterfly, with orchids.” C. 1722-6. Royal Collection Trust. https://www.rct.uk/collection/926050/a-monarch-butterfly-with-orchids Daly, Natasha. “Monarch butterflies are now an endangered species.” July 21, 2022. National Geographic. https://www.nationalgeographic.com/animals/article/monarch-butterflies-are-now-an-endangered-species Walker, A., Oberhauser, K.S., Pelton, E.M., Pleasants, J.M. & Thogmartin, W.E. 2022. Danaus plexippus ssp. plexippus. The IUCN Red List of Threatened Species 2022: e.T194052138A200522253. https://dx.doi.org/10.2305/IUCN.UK.2022-1.RLTS.T194052138A200522253.en Price, Michael. “Monarch miscalculation: Has a scientific error about the butterflies persisted for more than 40 years?” Science. Feb. 24, 2007. https://www.science.org/content/article/monarch-miscalculation-has-scientific-error-about-butterflies-persisted-more-40-years Jiang, Kevin. “Study sheds light on evolutionary origins and the genes central to migration.” UChicago News. Oct. 6, 2014. https://news.uchicago.edu/story/genetic-secrets-monarch-butterfly-revealed Borkin, Susan Sullivan. “Notes on Shifting Distribution Patterns and Survival of Immature Danaus Plexippus (Lepidoptera: Danaidae) on the Food Plant Asclepias Syriaca.” The Great Lakes Entymologist. Vol. 15, No. 3. Fall 1982. https://scholar.valpo.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1437&context=tgle Cudmore, Rebecca. “SNAPSHOT: Monarchs with big, bright wings arrive in Mexico first.” ScienceLine. June 16, 2014. https://scienceline.org/2014/06/monarch-migration/ Brower, Lincoln P. “UNDERSTANDING AND MISUNDERSTANDING THE MIGRAnON OF THE MONARCH BUTTERFLY (NYMPHALIDAE) IN NORTH AMERICA: 1857-1995.” Journal of the Lepidopterists' Society. Vol. 49, No. 4, 1995. https://www.fs.fed.us/wildflowers/pollinators/Monarch_Butterfly/documents/Understanding_Monarch_Migration1995-Brower.pdf See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

15 Elo 202234min

SYMHC Classics: Giorgio Vasari

SYMHC Classics: Giorgio Vasari

This 2018 episode covers an artist and architect from 16th-century Italy. But what really made him famous was his writing. He penned biographies of famous artists, but he wasn't very exacting about the details.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

13 Elo 202228min

Behind the Scenes Minis: Diesel and Ibn Khaldūn

Behind the Scenes Minis: Diesel and Ibn Khaldūn

Holly and Tracy talk about the gossipy nature of press coverage about men like Rudolph Diesel. The gap between Ibn Khaldūn's life and the time when analysis of his work really began is also discussed. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

12 Elo 202216min

Ibn Khaldūn

Ibn Khaldūn

Ibn Khaldūn was a Muslim writer who covered history, economics and sociology. He lived during a time of chaos and strife, and his life was mired in the political drama and intrigue of the day. Research:  Alatas, Syed Farid. “Ibn Khaldun.” Oxford Centre for Islamic Studies. Oxford University Press. 2012. Albertini, Tamara. “Special Issue: Politics, Nature and Society – The Actuality of North African Philosopher Ibn Khaldūn.” Philosophy East & West Volume 69, Number 3 July 2019. Al-Jubouri, Imadaldin. “Ibn Khaldun and the Philosophy of History.” Philosophy Now. 2005. https://philosophynow.org/issues/50/Ibn_Khaldun_and_the_Philosophy_of_History Gearon, Eamonm. “Turning Points in Middle Eastern History.” The Teaching Company, 2016. "Ibn Khaldun Pioneers the Sociological View of History." Global Events: Milestone Events Throughout History, edited by Jennifer Stock, vol. 5: Middle East, Gale, 2014, pp. 239-243. Gale In Context: Global Issues, link.gale.com/apps/doc/CX3728000758/GPS?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-GPS&xid=cf4f6560. Accessed 20 July 2022. "Ibn Khaldūn." Complete Dictionary of Scientific Biography, vol. 7, Charles Scribner's Sons, 2008, pp. 320-323. Gale In Context: U.S. History, link.gale.com/apps/doc/CX2830902289/GPS?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-GPS&xid=c1137955. Accessed 20 July 2022. International Horizons with John Torpey. “Ibn Khaldun’s the Muqadimah: The Best Book You’ve Never Read.” With Aziz Al-Azmeh. Podcast. 10/20/2021. https://ralphbuncheinstitute.org/2021/12/20/ibn-khalduns-the-muqadimah-the-best-book-youve-never-read/ Irwin, Robert. “Ibn Kaldun: An Intellectual Biography.” Princeton University Press. 2018. Issawi, Charles. "Ibn Khaldūn". Encyclopedia Britannica, 24 May. 2022, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Ibn-Khaldun. Accessed 20 July 2022. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

10 Elo 202239min

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