EP 24: Paige Claassen — Pre-Send Rituals, Breathing Techniques, and Learning from Each Attempt

EP 24: Paige Claassen — Pre-Send Rituals, Breathing Techniques, and Learning from Each Attempt

Paige Claassen is a professional rock climber and the founder of the Southern Africa Education Fund. We talked about pre-send rituals, breathing techniques, how she changed her diet to improve recovery, recent training, how she structures bouldering and outdoor sessions, learning from each attempt, and favorite crag snacks.

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paige-claassen

Nuggets:

1:55 – “Coming to you live from my closet!”

3:04 – Frangog

4:44 – Learning to try hard, and reminding yourself that “I’ve sent in the past when things weren’t perfect”

8:26 – ‘Just Do It’, deep audible breaths, and clicking into the moment

11:45 – Pre-send rituals, working with a biokineticist, and activation points

14:28 – Paige’s thoughts on audible breathing

17:36 – Breathing beta, composing yourself, and “Everyone loves climbing on jugs”

19:03 – ‘Odin’s Eye’, eating more protein, training differently, and becoming a different climber

24:21 – Gym bouldering for power

27:15 – How Paige structures a bouldering session, and focusing on quality over quantity

28:59 – Training seasonally, and how Paige structures outdoor climbing sessions

30:33 – Day on day off

31:34 – Finding what works for you, and owning it

32:06 – A mental shift to not performing in the gym

33:24 – “I just love projecting.”

34:31 – Believing in the process, tricep pushups, and recent training during quarantine

39:42 – Losing ten pounds by eating more fat, protein amounts, and collagen for fingers and skin

44:20 – Southern Africa Education Fund (SAEF), building school buildings, and a new playground

49:24 – Mentorship, open and learning, and living in an exciting time

51:43 – Gratitude for family

53:14 – Current favorite climbing snack, and “I’m not afraid of carbs.”

56:01 – Fish tacos and buffalo cauliflower

57:35 – ‘Shadowboxing’, 5.15 as a goal, and climbing more 5.14+ routes in North America

59:58 – ‘Dreamcatcher’

1:00:50 – Learning from each attempt, frustrating to fun, and “if we’re not having fun there’s no point

1:02:35 – “Treat yourself as you would treat others.”

1:03:20 – Completing the Yurdin family (minus Kasbah)

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EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

Jeff Patterson is a martial arts instructor with black belt equivalency in 6x different martial arts, including Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu, Muay Thai, and Tai Chi. We talked about how practicing the meditati...

25 Touko 1h 1min

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

Herm Feissner is a lifer climber based in Fort Collins, CO. We talked about doing the FA of The Practitioner V11 in Leavenworth, WA, in the early 2000s, his training philosophy at 53 years old, how hi...

14 Touko 2h 9min

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

Sonnie Trotter is a Canadian professional rock climber and one of the most accomplished and respected climbers of his generation. We talked about his goal to climb 5.15, my impression of meeting him a...

27 Huhti 2h 7min

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard

Peter Mortimer is an award-winning filmmaker (King Lines, Valley Uprising, The Dawn Wall, The Alpinist) and co-creator of the Reel Rock Film Tour. We talked about his latest project, The Dark Wizard, ...

14 Huhti 54min

EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency

EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency

Dave Thompson is a 5.14 and V14 first ascentionist, alpinist, and coach for Evoke Endurance. We talked about his early climbing in the North Cascade mountains of Washington State, doing the first asce...

7 Huhti 1h 46min

EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics

EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics

Sam Watson is the current world record holder in speed climbing (4.64 seconds) and an Olympic Bronze medalist. We talked about breaking the world record in Paris, how he makes a living, building a soc...

23 Maalis 1h 55min

EP 294: Melissa Strong — Dying and Coming Back to Life, Having Her Arms Sewn Together, and Returning to Climbing with 7 ¾ Fingers

EP 294: Melissa Strong — Dying and Coming Back to Life, Having Her Arms Sewn Together, and Returning to Climbing with 7 ¾ Fingers

Melissa Strong is a boulderer and restaurateur based in Estes Park, CO, who nearly lost her life in an electrocution accident in April 2017. We talked about her accident, what she experienced on the o...

9 Maalis 1h 30min

EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

Joel Unema is a high-performance rock climber and coach for Climb Strong, and has climbed V14 and 5.14b. We talked about how Tyler Nelson helped him unlock V14 finger strength, how Steve Bechtel helpe...

23 Helmi 2h 4min

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