EP 45: Dru Mack (feat. Nat Gustafson) — How to Stay Strong While Projecting, and Battling ‘The Crew’

Joey Jannsen and Rich Breuner are the founders of Ocelot Grips. We talked about their “why” for starting a climbing hold company, why the small details matter, how to make dual tex, why you can’t buy their holds online, building relationships with your customers, being fans of sports, the future of indoor climbing, the entrepreneurial spirit, producing underground hip-hop concerts, cage fighting, and much more!Check out Ocelot Grips! ocelotgrips.com*Not a paid endorsement, I just think they're cool!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/joey-and-richNuggets:0:04:20 – Soundcheck and bevies0:05:30 – Rich talks about producing underground hip-hop shows during the summers in college0:09:08 – Joey talks about cage fighting0:11:53 – My background in manufacturing climbing holds, and our conversation six years ago about their idea for Ocelot0:14:05 – Why they decided to outsource their production0:15:37 – Joey’s background in route setting and shaping0:18:52 – Joey’s “why” for starting Ocelot Grips0:22:06 – Rich’s “why” for starting Ocelot Grips, and his background in business operations and management0:24:53 – Expressing your identity through business0:26:15 – The Hedgehog concept0:28:12 – Why they chose the name Ocelot0:29:09 – How The Nugget got its name0:33:08 – What sets Ocelot apart from other brands, and the Shade Theory series0:38:56 – Having a flavor0:40:55 – Wanting to be involved in the setting community0:44:47 – Why you can’t buy Ocelot holds online0:48:50 – Getting feedback0:51:53 – Attention to detail0:56:26 – How you do something is how you do everything0:56:58 – Ocelot’s manufacturing partner Peak Performance Polymers1:00:23 – Joey’s dual tex process, and how climbing holds are made1:05:29 – The logo1:07:05 – The business planning phase, processing orders, and learning as you go1:09:33 – Biggest challenges, and building Ocelot as a side hustle1:11:46 – Bluey1:12:40 – How far they’ve come, and what it will take for Ocelot to be their full-time jobs1:15:48 – Making career choices to maximize time1:18:40 – Where to climb on Ocelot holds, and gratitude1:21:38 – Joey describes the four current families of Ocelot holds1:25:38 – Wanting to see their holds in competitions1:29:54 – Being sports fans, and being excited about where climbing is heading1:38:45 – Novel moves in competitions1:41:15 – Putting on more than 50 competitions1:44:11 – Joey shares a few nuggets for route setters (relevant for creative people)1:54:01 – Rich shares a few nuggets about business2:01:48 – Where to find Ocelot, and wrap up

2 Loka 20232h 3min

Stefanie Myr is the head route setter, manager, and team coach at Climb Tacoma in WA. We met up in Leavenworth and talked about our similar upbringings in Christianity, why we both moved away from religion, finding “church” in the climbing community, confidence and self-belief, unique challenges as a short climber, being less certain and more curious, Stef’s polyamorous relationship with her husband and partner, compersion, honest communication, doing what you can to make the world a little better, and much more!Listen to the Patron Show on Spotify!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stefanie-myrNuggets:0:04:05 – Miniature carpentry, and a gift for me0:11:49 – Stef role at Climb Tacoma, and the gym as a core part of her community1:17:19 – How she first got a job at Climb Tacoma, and having a diverse group of people on the team0:20:16 – Stef’s unique financial situation, and the sustainability of working at a climbing gym0:22:38 – Moving away from her Christian upbringing, and finding “church” at the climbing gym0:25:09 – Our parallels with church music and moving away from organized religion0:30:31 – Bullet point lists, and how the gym functions like a “church”0:32:07 – Meeting people who changed the way we thought about organized religion0:35:16 – Stef’s upbringing and programming, and not realizing she was bisexual until college0:38:39 – Stef’s husband Julien0:40:34 – Stef’s confidence, choosing Giant Man as an objective, and gaining something from every climb0:46:17 – Frustration with height and grades, and needing to be V12 strong to climb V100:48:02 – My conversation with Nic Rummel about grades, and an announcement about the Patron show being on Spotify0:51:19 – Sending Pimpsqueak V8/9 in Leavenworth, ABR (always be rolling), and why recording send videos feels important0:56:02 – The power of seeing someone like you climb hard things1:00:42 – More about confidence, embracing powerful moves, learning from coaching little kids, and unlocking pieces of the puzzle1:08:18 – The moments that show you that you’ve gotten better at climbing, and Stef’s mountain1:10:23 – Stef’s dream boulder in Goldbar WA, and other goals in Leavenworth1:12:01 – How Stef got on The Nugget1:21:52 – Self-belief, wanting to be good, and the power of affirmation1:26:17 – Our brain’s reaction to negative comments, and how Stef deals with trolls1:38:02 – The lawyer in my brain, and making people think differently by asking better questions1:39:51 – Less certain more curious1:42:47 – Stef’s polyamorous relationship, and why she wanted to talk about it1:50:50 – Normalizing sex, and redefining cheating in an open relationship1:56:18 – Equating sex and intimacy to love, how cool her husband is, and the story of how she came to be with her partner2:03:22 – Jealousy, and honest communication2:05:32 – Why Stef wanted to talk about her open relationship, and why people who are poly are not free-for-alls2:09:53 – Bringing all of who you are to yourself as a climber2:11:53 – Compersion2:15:11 – The depth of her relationship with her husband before they opened their relationship, and the distinction between security and trust2:17:53 – Marriage, and Stef’s future with her partner2:24:47 – Double the love and laundry, and Stef’s life in a go bag2:26:50 – Check-ins, RADAR, smoking weed, and “ask don’t assume”2:32:23 – Double-committing, and learning to communicate her plans2:39:18 – What Stef wishes people spent more time thinking about2:41:10 – Make the world a little better2:42:20 – My episode with Ethan Pringle about his dad, and the importance of airing out the messiness2:47:35 – Stef’s sponsors2:51:08 – Pursuing the child-free life, and final thoughts

26 Syys 20232h 55min

In this short episode, I correct a mistake from my latest episode with Katie Lamb and talk about the four women who have climbed V15. Thanks to Katharina for bringing this to my attention, and all the respect and admiration to Ashima Shiraishi, Kaddi Lehmann, Mishka Ishi, and Oriane Bertone. You are legends!

23 Syys 20233min

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Katie Lamb is back on to talk about her groundbreaking ascent of Box Therapy V16. In case you’ve been living under a rock (or haven’t been) Katie recently sent the hardest boulder of her life and became the first woman to send a V16. We go in-depth into her projecting processes, why she picked Box Therapy as a project, her greatest challenges, why she only tried the boulder once per week, her personal key to sending hard boulders, joy vs. excitement, and much more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:40:34.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingKatie’s Other Episodes:EP 145: Katie LambFollow-Up: Katie Lamb (Apr 20, 2023)

22 Syys 202348min

The final episode from Rocklands! Ethan Pringle joins me for a fireside chat on my last day in South Africa. We share a wrap-up of the trip, and tackle Patron questions about Ethan’s back injury and rehab, his favorite climbing areas in California, why I still do “No Hangs”, my send of Octopussy, projecting tips, how I use the Tindeq, Ethan’s most epic bat hangs, mental health struggles and setbacks, challenging your perceived limits, why Ethan thinks I should spend more time training on commercial gym sets, my thoughts about Rocklands overall, and much more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/60nuggetUse code "60NUGGET" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-7Nuggets:0:03:51 – Rocklands Recap:0:03:51 – My recap of being sick, and how fast time flies on a trip0:11:55 – Comparing my trips to Magic Wood and Rocklands, and my main takeaway0:13:07 – Ethan’s trip recap, and remaining goals0:18:22 – Recap of my journey on Black Shadow0:22:32 – Some of the other hard boulders I tried0:24:06 – The line between having a “bad” vs “good” trip0:25:29 – Expectations vs. reality, and resetting your reference points to find gratitude0:28:02 – Patron Questions:0:28:02 – Shawn’s Question: Ethan’s back injury/rehab, his plans to lift weights, and the rigors of bouldering in Rocklands0:34:04 – Shawn’s Question: No Hangs, finding your max load for training, and my current approach to finger strength0:38:40 – Rajiv’s Question: Top routes that have inspired Ethan, Connor Herson’s repeat of Black Beard’s Tears, and Ethan’s FA in Greenland0:41:47 – Rajiv’s Question: China Beach in Rumney0:43:05 – Rajiv’s Question: Chris Linder’s route Window of Opportunity0:47:59 – Travis’ Question: My send of Octopussy, the process, and projecting tips0:56:40 – Colin’s Question: Where Ethan developed his love for climbing, being a gym rat at heart, and his early climbing in CA1:00:10 – Colin’s Question: Go-to climbing areas near San Francisco, Ethan’s thoughts on Jailhouse, and areas in northern CA1:03:42 – Colin’s Question: Bouldering exploration in the Eastern Sierras, and unfinished business at Shuteye Ridge1:09:58 – Colin’s Question: Ethan’s thoughts on the bouldering near LA1:13:11 – Cody’s Question: Tindeq protocols, edge sizes, and some notes about my finger training on the trip1:19:40 – Patreon plug, and info about Q&As1:21:26 – Daniel’s Question: Ethan’s thoughts on bat hangs1:28:02 – Alan’s Question: Which climber’s superpowers we wish we had1:31:44 – Jacob’s Question: Ethan’s thoughts on mental health struggles, and how that plays into his climbing1:35:28 – Why loving yourself won’t make you lose your edge1:39:02 – Wren’s Question: My thoughts on sport climbing in the future, and meeting climbing partners on the road1:44:20 – Jacob’s Question: Favorite sport climbing destinations in the US1:46:25 – Unpacking the word “favorite”1:47:15 – Lars’ Question: Dealing with setbacks and mental struggles1:49:33 – The beauty of Rocklands1:51:07 – Connor’s Question: Most memorable boulders, and life list boulders1:57:03 – Cooper’s Question: Favorite home crags near the Bay that Ethan never gets tired of, and remaining highballs in Bishop1:59:13 – Luke’s Question: Challenging your perceived limits2:09:08 – More Thoughts About Rocklands:2:09:08 – Why Ethan thinks I should spend more time on commercial gym sets2:10:40 – My thoughts on the climbing in Rocklands, and why I was hesitant to talk about it2:19:28 – Sweet spot grades in different areas, and wanting to be good enough to enjoy weird or unpleasant climbs2:22:59 – We need that 18-year-old Moonboard energy2:24:32 – Wanting to come back, and wrap up

18 Syys 20232h 29min

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis is an expert boulderer and a doctor of PhysioTherapy from Australia. This episode is all about dynos! Ethan Pringle joins us for another fireside chat as we talk about how Mattias became “the dyno guy” in Rocklands, categories of difficulty and how to grade dynos, how training his legs made him a better all-around boulderer, the key to having the best trip of your life, changing his mindset and enjoying his climbing more than ever, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasSupport on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mattias-braach-maksvytisNuggets:0:05:26 – Exhales and accents0:08:02 – How Mattias and I first met outside a bathroom in Hueco0:11:26 – Becoming “the Dyno guy” in Rocklands, and his dyno resume0:18:16 – His first hard dynos, and early trips to Font0:21:06 – Hotspots for dynos around the world, and the new 8C/V15 dyno in Spain0:23:57 – Trying an obscure dyno in Bishop, and beta mining0:25:36 – ‘The End’ 8A in Rocklands, and what makes a good dyno0:28:08 – Dyno FAs in Rocklands, and dynos that are ahead of their time0:32:12 – ‘Industry of Cool’ 8A+, getting better at coordination dynos, which types of dynos hold their grades0:35:15 – How to grade a dyno, and categories of difficulty0:41:01 – Mattias’ 8C dyno project, and having his best year of climbing ever0:43:01 – Changing his mindset, and becoming more playful0:51:58 – Needing reference points to determine grades0:53:45 – Training for his 5-year dyno project1:00:10 – Dyno technique, and breaking down the move1:04:19 – Right-handed 8A dynos in Rocklands, and the morpho nature of dynos1:08:36 – Nobody trains legs, how much Mattias weighs, and how increasing his leg strength helped his overall climbing1:11:11 – Getting hit by a van, and how rehab made him stronger1:13:36 – Why he was so psyched to send ‘Caroline’ 7C+1:16:16 – Other trip highlights, and why lumbrical injuries have become more common1:23:55 – Being a sub-max comfortable guy, and not needing to do projects right now1:27:15 – Enjoying the chossy lowball, and letting go of pressure to send the mega1:32:43 – Coercing Mattias to try ‘Black Shadow’ on his last day, and his level of fatigue at the end of the trip1:36:41 – Why the Basecamp boulder took so long to get developed1:37:43 – Spraying the tick list1:42:45 – The key to having the best trip of your life1:43:49 – Aligning your inspiration with your ability1:46:27 – Is it possible to climb near your potential after 2 months in Rocklands?1:49:45 – Starting his business ClimberCare1:54:47 – Studying to become a doctor of PhysioTherapy, and his evolution as a climber1:57:46 – Wobblers2:03:34 – Ethan’s punt on ‘Rodan’ 33/8c/5.14b in Waterval Boven2:07:00 – Self-deprecation and kindness2:10:02 – Drawing inspiration from the mutants2:11:21 – V14 goals2:15:50 – Better yeet your meaties

12 Syys 20232h 21min

Nic Rummel is an applied mathematician and expert boulderer. Ethan Pringle joins as co-host for another fun episode from Rocklands. We talked about embracing his nickname “Thick Nic”, lessons from working with Matt Fultz, sending V13 crimp boulders at 185 lbs, epic math projects, taking ballet to practice movement, the keys to a good spray wall, go-to hangboard protocols for epic finger strength, how lifting weights led to his best trip ever, finding mentorship in an 80-year-old climbing legend, and much more!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nic-rummelNuggets:0:06:39 – Test, test, testing…0:08:24 – How Thique Nic got his nickname, and embracing the body you’re given0:15:02 – Viking-built, trucks vs. Mazdas0:17:43 – Working with Matt & Hailey (Franklin) Fultz, and the confidence that comes with hitting strength benchmarks0:20:39 – Everyone wants to be like someone else, and being proud of the climber you’ve become0:23:29 – I’m on one, training for his local project in Fort Collins CO, and why he had such a successful trip to Rocklands0:30:08 – Deloading, Nic’s job in missile tracking and detection, and going back to school for a graduate degree0:35:23 – Needing more rest now that he is in school0:36:14 – Nic’s longest boulder project vs. his math problem0:41:29 – Applied math vs. pure math0:46:00 – The math problem that took Nic the longest to solve0:49:01 – Finding better beta on the JABE problem0:54:06 – Mathing vs. bouldering, comparison, and balancing multiple passions0:58:49 – Having a physical goal, an artistic goal, and an intellectual goal1:00:04 – Artistic outlets, and making an art film1:02:13 – Ballet1:11:32 – Nic’s crimping journey1:16:29 – Beating Matt Fultz to the 200 lb OTG, doing 58 pullups in a minute, and getting confidence from metrics1:21:19 – Nic’s crimping journey continued, and long-term hangboard training1:24:32 – Nic’s key takeaways from reading Ned Feehally’s book Beastmaking1:26:07 – Doing a hangboarding workout before trying your project, and adapting over time1:27:53 – Nic’s go-to hangboard protocols1:32:09 – Nic’s top hangboard recommendation that he got from Will Anglin1:34:15 – Nic’s thoughts on training micros1:35:53 – When to do the Will Anglin workout, and doing long-duration hangs as part of his warmup1:37:34 – Being warmup kings, and training less than usual1:41:05 – Ethan’s feelings1:42:41 – Nic’s secret crimp project, and doing the stand to Andramada1:44:41 – Working on climbing movement, and how he set up his home wall to work on his weaknesses1:47:56 – How the home wall facilitated community, and buying his house in Fort Collins1:51:54 – The evolution of Nic’s home wall, and why he doesn’t like big holds on boards1:56:04 – Ethan tries to convince Nic to try Scorsese 5.14c in the Poudre1:57:45 – Setting as a creative outlet, and what he wishes he could change about his home wall2:00:07 – Why Nic doesn’t recommend using T-nuts on a home wall2:02:15 – Using electric scooters to get to Lincoln Lake2:09:06 – Ethan hates on CO alpine bouldering, and the boys compare it to Eldo and the Flatirons2:13:59 – How Nic ended up in Boulder, living on Paul’s land, and renovating his trailer2:23:22 – Showering, splitting time between the trailer and his house, and having Paul as a mentor2:28:54 – Wanting to feel like a badass, and finding balance2:32:30 – Feeling content with his trip, getting sick, and sending Sky V132:35:59 – Lifting weights to keep up with his sister2:38:02 – Taking measurements of his body, and how he’s changed over the years2:39:04 – Nic’s brother, his siblings’ climbing, and a lesson from powerlifting2:43:54 – Dream climbs, plans to try more V14s, and why he got hurt on his project2:47:58 – Music City Hot Chicken2:48:34 – Go-to breakfast2:49:37 – Go-to climbing shoes2:52:17 – Climbing in Red Feather2:53:07 – Trap music2:54:31 – Obtaining big goals2:56:55 – Ethan talks about Nic’s send of Airstar V132:58:41 – Wrap up

4 Syys 20233h 1min

Jenn DeBellis is an elite-level boulderer and software engineer. We sat down in Rocklands and talked about her biggest lessons from childhood gymnastics and collegiate athletics, trying V13s in Magic Wood and Rocklands, getting comfortable with failure, learning to embrace her style, her elaborate warmup routine, how she plans her 6-week training cycles, her role with KAYA, tips for sustaining a full-time job on the road, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasSupport on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jenn-debellisNuggets:0:04:57 – Bugs and SAT words0:06:39 – Jenn’s gymnastics background, and pole vaulting in college0:11:12 – Paying attention to the best qualities in our friends0:13:15 – Tough coaches, and learning to be tough on herself0:15:00 – Being comfortable with failure, and Jenn’s Olympic aspirations in gymnastics0:19:26 – Setting the scene0:20:09 – Getting inspired by Ray of Light V13, and Jenn’s initial goals for her trip to Rocklands0:22:24 – The breakdown of Ray of Light, and the standards in Rocklands0:24:10 – V10 and 8A, and the decision to try really hard and inspiring things0:26:30 – The 8a leaderboard, and shift her philosophy to chase dream boulders0:30:50 – My new shoe mod for Black Shadow0:34:08 – Getting excited about “sending” crux moves, and turning small wins into big wins0:35:59 – Trying beyond limit boulders, and making tradeoffs0:40:21 – Jenn and I compare our experiences with Black Shadow and Ray of Light, and share takeaways0:48:00 – The climbers we’ve learned from, and the truth about people who climb hard0:51:04 – Owning your style, not falling into the pitfall of trying to copy your peers, and trying Full Throttle V13 in Hueco0:57:23 – How living on the road has changed my perception of climbing, and different ways you can express difficulty in climbing0:59:06 – Working on her strengths and supplementing her weaknesses1:01:20 – Thinking about her training in checkboxes1:03:14 – Not knowing where home is, and having many homes on the road1:08:28 – Jenn’s lifestyle, leaving her PhD program to live in a van1:15:05 – How Jenn balances indoor training and outdoor performance1:17:49 – How she plans her training cycles, and using autoregulation to ramp up after a trip1:21:29 – “Injury is the enemy.”1:22:12 – How Jenn balances her climbing life with a full-time remote job1:23:46 – Life is 30% less efficient on the road1:25:49 – Tips for finding cheap rent in cities1:26:54 – The dirtbag mindset, how to make working on the road sustainable1:31:13 – How Jenn structures a 6-week training block, and the key ingredients in her training1:33:07 – Weight lifting, and cutting out accessory exercises1:35:07 – Board climbing, and how to train for something like Full Throttle1:36:46 – Jenn’s long-ass climbing warmup1:40:21 – The different stages of Jenn’s warmup1:41:28 – Keeping training and outdoor trips separate1:43:45 – Improving year on year1:44:54 – Upcoming trips and goals, and training 4x4s on her home wall1:47:53 – KAYA, Jenn’s role on the engineering team, and her passion for her work1:54:44 – Favorite rock type, and thinking better on granite1:57:08 – Ultimate dream climbs, and meaningful first female ascents1:59:34 – Joe’s Valley doughnuts2:01:11 – Kodiak Cakes2:02:06 – Go-to climbing shoes2:02:17 – Jenn’s connection to Joe’s Valley, and how she became a software engineer2:05:02 – Desert Island DVDs2:06:31 – Hype music2:08:27 – Best decision she’s ever made, and how long she sees herself living this lifestyle2:11:42 – Thoughts about having a family and drawing inspiration from strong moms2:12:42 – What Jenn wishes people spent less time thinking about2:14:25 – Building out her van2:17:36 – Toying with the idea of bringing back blogs2:19:45 – Wrapping up in the dark

28 Elo 20232h 23min