EP 45: Dru Mack (feat. Nat Gustafson) — How to Stay Strong While Projecting, and Battling ‘The Crew’

EP 45: Dru Mack (feat. Nat Gustafson) — How to Stay Strong While Projecting, and Battling ‘The Crew’

Dru Mack is a professional rock climber who spent his formative years in the Red River Gorge, and is now traveling full time pursuing hard sport climbing. Nat Gustafson sits in on our conversation to talk about hard projecting, tricks for maintaining power and finger strength, an update on “The List”, training recommendations, hype up songs, and Dru’s battle with ‘The Crew’ 5.14c in Rifle.

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dru-mack

Nuggets:

4:12 – Send Frosties vs. sad Frosties, DQ Blizzards, and steak dinners

6:01 – One “health day” per week, and crunches for beach abs

7:17 – Battling ‘The Crew’

9:14 – Project climbing vs. mixing it up, and “every project has a different process”

13:01 – ‘The Flame’, and going on bouldering trips to help his sport climbing

16:10 – Balancing performance climbing with Moonboard sessions, bouldering trips, and hangboarding

18:41 – Dru’s bouldering trip to Estes

19:55 – Bouldering sessions in the gym, and Is, Ys, and Ts

21:35 – Dru’s stretching practice

24:15 – The importance of fun

26:28 – My breathing challenge from Ethan Pringle

30:07 – The theme I’ve noticed in top climbers through the podcast

31:28 – Introducing Nat, the prospect of shoulder surgery, and “decisions are always easier when they’re made for you”

34:14 – Question for Nat: What are some of the cultural differences you noticed (related to climbing) between Spain and the US? What can you attribute to higher climbing standards in Spain?

38:28 – The Spanish warmup

39:37 – Lessons from climbing with the Pou brothers

41:15 – Nat’s progression from 12d/13a to 5.14 in 3.5 years in Spain

42:31 – Nat’s challenges with the language barrier in Spain and feeling emotionally blunted

44:01 – “You don’t get over the fears.”

46:11 – Learning from friends

49:15 – Social media and room for mistakes and growth

57:37 – Lee and mentorship

1:03:30 – ‘Middle Child’

1:06:57 – Being “Lee” for some other kid someday

1:07:59 – Dru’s biggest weaknesses leaving the Red

1:09:45 – Dru’s first trip to Europe, climbing with J-Star, and doing ‘Fisheye’

1:11:32 – Getting lowered off the end of his rope, and “always getting better.”

1:13:41 – Plans to move to St. George, and what Dru is focusing on to continue getting better

1:15:36 – Dru’s mantras, little victories, and staying positive

1:18:06 – Update on “The List” (from J-Star), and campusing slabs at the VRG

1:22:18 – Stiff shoes and calf raises for kneebars

1:23:48 – Plans to continue “The List”, and balancing volume climbing with projecting

1:28:07 – 5.15?

1:32:51 – Moving to St. George, community, and balancing connection with solo time

1:39:54 – The book ‘Exhalation’

1:43:03 – Productivity vs. downtime, phones as a tool, and asking ourselves, “do I have the time to be entertained right now?”

1:46:37 – Shoutout to listeners! Thank you so much for your questions, seriously!

1:46:59 – Patron Question: What should I do to prepare for a trip to the Red? (given two to three months to prepare)

1:51:47 – Breaking down the “2x2” and the “3x3”

1:54:16 – Best angles to train on for the Red

1:55:03 – How to progress your training leading up to a trip to the Red

1:58:05 – Short summary of Red training

1:58:26 – Fingers and core, and Dru’s current approach to finger strength

2:01:18 – R&B and hype up music

2:03:16 – “Enjoy every second of it.”

2:05:44 – Gratitude for friends and supportive community

2:06:51 – “Would I be ok trying this route for a month and not doing it..?”, and last-ditch efforts on ‘The Crew’

2:09:17 – More gratitude, blue-point-thumb-wrestling, and basketball

2:11:50 – Send Frosty and donuts

Jaksot(380)

EP 251: Eric Jerome — The Benefits of Caring Less, Seeking the Minimal Effective Dose, and Developing New Boulders

EP 251: Eric Jerome — The Benefits of Caring Less, Seeking the Minimal Effective Dose, and Developing New Boulders

Eric Jerome is a V15 climber and prolific bouldering developer. We talked about getting hit by a drunk driver, how his injury led to a paradigm shift, why he is actively caring less about climbing, seeking the minimal effective dose, developing new boulders in the Flaming Gorge and The New, buying a house, his career with KAYA, the gamification of climbing, and much more.Holiday Gift Ideas:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/giftGift a Patreon subscription 👆frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugThe NUG 👆thenuggetclimbing.com/shopHello Friends merch 👆Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Green Chef:greenchef.com/NUGGET50Use code "NUGGET50" for 50% off your first box plus 20% off your next two months.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-jeromeNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:12) – Hit & run(00:04:42) – The recovery process(00:07:57) – A paradigm shift(00:10:55) – The Top 100 project(00:13:23) – A really fun game(00:17:08) – A healthier relationship with climbing(00:21:02) – Body type & relationship with food(00:25:12) – Finger strength & volume as a heavier climber(00:33:33) – Minimal effective dose(00:40:59) – Cycling projects & developing(00:49:02) – A new bouldering area in Utah(01:00:57) – Documenting new boulders(01:08:00) – Bouldering in The New(01:11:47) – Buying a house in West Virginia(01:32:37) – House swaps & gratitude(01:37:45) – More about The New(01:46:09) – Life going forward(01:50:02) – Summer vibes in The New(01:53:15) – Best lines in the UK(01:55:09) – Eric’s career with KAYA(02:03:19) – Building a database(02:07:25) – Gamification & misconceptions about KAYA(02:17:38) – Upcoming KAYA features(02:21:02) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

2 Joulu 20242h 25min

EP 250: Beth Rodden — Overcoming Fear, the Unwinnable Game of Climbing, and the Power of Human Stories

EP 250: Beth Rodden — Overcoming Fear, the Unwinnable Game of Climbing, and the Power of Human Stories

Beth Rodden is one of the best female rock climbers of all time. We talked about her kidnapping in Kyrgyzstan, facing backlash after her divorce, reflections on her climbing career, her history with Magic Line, disconnecting self-worth from achievement, the unwinnable game of climbing, personal evolution, why she loves human stories, and much more. Her new book, A Light Through the Cracks: A Climber’s Story is available now.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/beth-roddenNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:00:54) – Injuries(00:03:28) – Writing her book(00:08:14) – Excavating memories(00:11:05) – Coming around to therapy(00:13:59) – Living in fear(00:16:13) – Kyrgyzstan(00:21:45) – More excavation & therapy(00:27:06) – Putting the book together(00:28:29) – A shared experience(00:37:45) – Being honest(00:44:03) – Not reading Tommy’s book(00:47:39) – Facing backlash(00:56:11) – Reductionism(01:00:55) – Family trips with the Caldwells(01:05:24) – Reflecting on her climbing career(01:10:48) – Magic Line(01:18:53) – Self-worth, achievement, & change(01:29:49) – An unwinnable game(01:36:30) – Evolution & human stories(01:40:18) – Favorite memoirs(01:44:28) – The next level down(01:46:42) – Feedback & criticism(01:51:27) – Her feelings about her book(01:54:10) – Where to buy Beth’s book(01:55:14) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

25 Marras 20241h 58min

EP 249: Chris Sharma — Finishing Hard Things, Reinventing Yourself, and Finding the Sweet Spot

EP 249: Chris Sharma — Finishing Hard Things, Reinventing Yourself, and Finding the Sweet Spot

Chris Sharma is one of the greatest climbers of all time. We talked about his rapid ascension as a teenager, the knee injury that almost ended his career, why La Dura Dura was a turning point, reinventing ourselves as climbers, the importance of finishing what you start, what he does in the off-season, mini objectives, embracing competition, finding contentment, having kids, and much more. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-sharmaNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:48) – Community & climbing alone(00:07:15) – A rapid ascension & crashing down(00:10:32) – Knee injury(00:13:29) – Reinventing our relationship(00:17:27) – La Dura Dura(00:20:07) – New challenges(00:27:32) – Chapters(00:29:59) – Finding the sweet spot(00:36:46) – Biographie & traveling in Asia(00:41:58) – Persistence & evolution(00:48:22) – Finishing what you start(00:52:32) – Should or should not(00:59:18) – Sleeping Lion & speed climbing(01:03:55) – First Round First Minute(01:11:17) – Paris Olympics(01:13:21) – Le Blonde & Perfecto Mundo(01:15:48) – Playfulness & mini objectives(01:19:43) – DWS during the off-season(01:27:21) – Santa Linya(01:32:30) – US Lead Nationals & competing again(01:40:17) – Paris 2028(01:46:32) – Embracing competition(01:50:00) – The next generation(01:54:12) – The media churn(01:57:22) – JB Tribout’s advice(02:00:22) – “It’s cool to do hard shit. ”(02:05:18) – Finding contentment & having kids(02:12:32) – Ferrari(02:16:16) – Magic(02:19:12) – More psyched than ever(02:21:24) – Climbing for other people(02:25:10) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

18 Marras 20242h 28min

EP 248: Thomas Huber — Exploring the Impossible, the Stone Monkey Era, and Finding Freedom in the Mountains

EP 248: Thomas Huber — Exploring the Impossible, the Stone Monkey Era, and Finding Freedom in the Mountains

Thomas Huber is a German rock climbing and mountaineering legend. We talked about his most recent expedition to Pakistan, how to have fun at basecamp, exploring the impossible, his first trip to Buoux as a teenager, beer diets, his relationship with his brother Alex, challenges, silver linings, partying with the Stone Monkeys in Yosemite, his new book Freiheit, and much more.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/thomas-huberNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:25) – Many valleys(00:04:53) – Hunting(00:14:39) – Staying young(00:16:29) – Thomas’ recent trip to Choktoi(00:27:12) – Lessons from expeditions(00:31:05) – Party in basecamp(00:35:48) – The Pakistanis’ relationship with climbing(00:45:48) – Exploring the impossible(00:51:12) – Understanding why accidents happen(00:55:50) – Sport climbing at age 57(00:57:45) – Mountaineering holiday(01:01:17) – Beer break(01:02:37) – Early training(01:09:36) – Part of the evolution(01:11:42) – His first trip to Buoux(01:13:53) – Inspiration & training setup(01:19:11) – Finger strength in his 50s(01:20:55) – 9a & beer(01:27:36) – Reaching the world stage(01:30:38) – His relationship with his brother Alex(01:37:29) – Proudest accomplishments with Alex(01:39:31) – Challenges & silver linings(01:46:17) – Yosemite & the Stone Monkeys(01:54:00) – Patagonia(01:56:09) – El Nino on El Cap(01:58:39) – The man-powered rappel(02:00:45) – Keeping their stories alive(02:06:24) – Freiheit

11 Marras 20242h 14min

EP 247: Todd Perkins — Protecting Moe’s Valley, and What We Can Do to Help

EP 247: Todd Perkins — Protecting Moe’s Valley, and What We Can Do to Help

Moe’s Valley access is under threat! Todd Perkins returns to the show to talk about what is happening with Moe’s Valley, what actions are being taken to protect it, and what we can do to help. You can sign the petition here!Sign the Petition:Petition to Permanently Protect the Greater Moe’s Valley Area(https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSf3winkzQEwb-NI9TPPIW0yaEo1iLcifw43N0sCS5X9sW3nhQ/viewform)More Links:stgeorgeclimberscoalition.orgShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/todd-perkins-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – A few thoughts about my political episode with Kaizen(00:02:16) – Intro(00:03:34) – A splash of cold water(00:04:33) – What’s going on with Moe’s Valley(00:10:24) – Todd’s early days in Moe’s(00:13:30) – Moe’s has it’s place(00:14:04) – The petition & upcoming hearings(00:17:46) – Fundraising(00:21:18) – Stories from Todd(00:27:56) – Striking a balance(00:30:58) – Todd’s health & climbing(00:33:00) – Top secret information(00:34:02) – Wrap up

4 Marras 202435min

EP 246: Fundamentals — How to Break a Plateau

EP 246: Fundamentals — How to Break a Plateau

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 6 of 6) — If you climb long enough, you’ll inevitably hit a plateau. In part 6, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls for how to break through plateaus and continue progressing in your climbing. We cover the importance of focusing on skills rather than grades, doubling down on the basics, how to continually progress as a climber, and much more.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsThe NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Check out the Tension Board 2:tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you.BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-6Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:21) – Our longest plateaus(00:03:50) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Think long-term(00:08:10) – Steven’s Tip #1: Get focused and make sure everything you are doing has a reason behind it(00:10:51) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Focus on objectives instead of grades(00:14:17) – Steven’s Tip #2: Consider rebuilding from the ground up(00:17:29) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Focus on your climbing skills and not the grades(00:28:34) – Steven’s Tip #3: Do more of what you haven’t been doing(00:33:24) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Double down on the basics (sleep, nutrition, stress, etc.)(00:37:19) – Long rests & rewarming up(00:38:12) – Steven’s Tip #4: Consider changing your circumstances(00:42:40) – Pressure testing your assumptions(00:44:12) – Creative home walls(00:45:06) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Doing more of what you’ve been doing(00:45:49) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Overtraining(00:50:32) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Getting captured by other people’s agendas(01:00:46) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Too much limit checking(01:04:27) – What to do when you run out of routes or boulders to progress through(01:09:21) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Switching styles too often(01:12:43) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: You’re not actually plateaued, you’ve just built a tower(01:15:01) – Area-specific pyramids(01:19:48) – That’s a wrap on season 2!

28 Loka 20241h 22min

EP 245: A Political Discussion About the Health Crisis, Foreign Wars, the Future of Democracy, and More | ft. Kaizen Asiedu

EP 245: A Political Discussion About the Health Crisis, Foreign Wars, the Future of Democracy, and More | ft. Kaizen Asiedu

Kaizen Asiedu is a Harvard graduate in philosophy, an Emmy winner, and a life coach. We talked about our political backgrounds and values, what happened to RFK Jr, the health crisis in the US, foreign wars, how the coming election could affect the future of democracy, mainstream media, censorship and free speech, abortion, the steel man case for Kamala and Trump, and much more.Join Kaizen’s Courage Collective:skool.com/courageShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kaizen-asieduNuggets:(00:00:00) – Kaizen's Emmy(00:04:22) – My political background, the health crisis, & RKF Jr(00:11:01) – My algorithm breaking & discovering Kaizen(00:12:46) – What Kaizen does(00:14:32) – Kaizen’s political journey(00:21:13) – Kaizen’s awakening(00:28:35) – Becoming a life coach(00:31:51) – The media, our legal system, & Trump(00:39:15) – How the media portrays RFK Jr, & the “white supremacists are very fine people” narrative(00:43:16) – Kaizen’s experience talking about Trump(00:46:25) – Nuance & the power of being truthful(00:51:13) – Media bias, the influence of advertising, & polarized perceptions(00:56:12) – Incentives drive everything(00:57:14) – Tulsi Gabbard, Joe Biden’s cognitive decline, & and the DNC appointing Kamala Harris(01:02:09) – Kaizen’s political journey continued(01:10:12) – Priorities(01:12:00) – What is America?(01:14:15) – What does a “great” America actually look like?(01:20:57) – Government corruption, Hunter Biden’s laptop, censorship, & free speech(01:29:48) – Why this election is bigger than Trump vs. Harris(01:32:35) – Why I feel frustrated with US politics(01:35:34) – My health journey & why I care about the health crisis(01:40:52) – The sick care system & our food system(01:42:13) – Monsanto, GMO crops, Roundup, glyphosate, Bayer, & cancer lawsuits(01:47:47) – How much we spend managing chronic disease(01:50:40) – Sense vs. dollars(01:53:32) – The health crisis is fundamental(01:59:34) – Ripple effects(02:01:47) – Pharma & conflicts of interest(02:02:30) – Voting with our dollars(02:07:57) – Taking responsibility(02:09:15) – Synergistic effects(02:10:24) – Abortion, racism, & what happens if Trump wins(02:23:59) – Inviting curiosity & losing perspective(02:27:24) – Steel man argument for Kamala Harris(02:32:25) – Mass deportation(02:37:48) – Steel man argument for Trump(02:41:34) – January 6th(02:44:17) – Mail-in ballots & voter ID(02:48:26) – My final thoughts(02:50:41) – Kaizen’s final thoughts & The Courage Collective

23 Loka 20242h 56min

EP 244: Felipe Camargo — The Power of Drive + Creativity, Tropical Lines in Brazil, & Moonboard Endurance Circuits

EP 244: Felipe Camargo — The Power of Drive + Creativity, Tropical Lines in Brazil, & Moonboard Endurance Circuits

Felipe Camargo is a professional climber from Brazil and the first South American to climb 9b (5.15b). We talked about his humble beginnings in climbing and selling soda to fund his first competition, training for 5.15 on a 3-meter spray wall, how signing with Red Bull changed his life, why we climb, what he learned from Patxi Usobiaga, his new film Tropical Lines, climbing hotspots in South America, his current projects, and much more.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/felipe-camargoNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:17) – Felipe’s intro to climbing(00:03:43) – Training on a small spray wall(00:05:54) – Ultimate Beastmaster(00:08:53) – Becoming the first South American to climb 9b(00:12:35) – Selling soda to fund his first competition(00:14:42) – World Championships in Spain(00:16:17) – Early sponsorships & traveling(00:19:57) – Signing with Red Bull & TNF(00:25:45) – Representing South America(00:26:56) – Papichulo 9a+ (5.15a)(00:28:33) – Goal oriented(00:34:20) – “Why do we do this?”(00:40:30) – Gancho Perfecto 9a+ (5.15a)(00:41:46) – Full Journey & Perfecto Mundo(00:44:20) – Training on a spray wall(00:47:44) – Learning from Patxi Usobiaga(00:50:56) – Being smarter with training(00:54:29) – When to specialize(00:57:22) – Felipe’s training as a kid(00:59:48) – Tropical Lines(01:08:28) – Climbing conditions in Brazil(01:10:26) – Crags in Brazil(01:14:32) – Hotspots in South America(01:17:36) – More about Tropical Lines(01:19:20) – Auto Retrato 9a+(01:21:05) – The Grand Illusion V16(01:25:29) – Full Journey 9b (5.15b)(01:27:40) – El Bon Combat 9b (5.15b)(01:28:23) – Endurance on the Moonboard(01:33:35) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

21 Loka 20241h 38min

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