EP 57: Dave MacLeod (Part 2) — Highlights From ‘9 Out of 10’, Flexible Programming, and Listener Questions

EP 57: Dave MacLeod (Part 2) — Highlights From ‘9 Out of 10’, Flexible Programming, and Listener Questions

This is part 2 of my conversation with Dave MacLeod. We talked about key points from Dave’s book 9 Out of 10 Climbers, how he uses flexible programming to train around the weather in Scotland, his current carnivore diet experiment, and listener questions about aging, piles of eggs, disordered eating, fatherhood, Scottish climbing, and more.

Support the Podcast:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-macleod-part-2

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:04:10) – Why Dave wrote ‘9 out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes’

(00:11:09) – Using ‘9 out of 10’ to discover your own individual pitfalls, and why Dave has become more and more interested in lifestyle

(00:15:28) – Using your climbing partners as mirrors, changing your circumstances, and the shortcut to sending your project

(00:21:00) – Dave’s common pitfall—quality recovery

(00:22:25) – Productivity and the value of having a home wall

(00:26:30) – “Bouldering is king”, and how Dave fits indoor bouldering sessions around outdoor climbing

(00:31:47) – How Dave uses flexible programing for his training

(00:37:01) – Periodization as a tool for introducing variety

(00:38:52) – Fingerboarding on the same day as bouldering and Dave’s thoughts on which to do first

(00:40:33) – The “one-minute-per-move” rule

(00:42:40) – Patron Question from Adriel: Any advice for maintaining a positive growth curve as you age? What does Dave think the upper age limit is for hitting peak performance?

(00:48:23) – Dave’s take on how much protein to eat per day

(00:49:39) – Dave’s current carnivore diet experiment

(00:57:10) – Sport climbing on a ketogenic diet

(01:07:20) – Patron Question from Charizze: How many eggs make a pile of eggs?

(01:10:17) – Patron Question from Maria: How do manage the strength to weight ratio through diet, while avoiding falling down the rabbit hole of energy deficiency and/or disordered eating?

(01:16:42) – Patron Question from Mike: Dave, you’re a hero, but I’ll be honest, much of the climbing in Scottland looks chossy and overgrown. What crag should a climber from the US visit to correct that misconception?

(01:19:07) – What time of year is best to visit Scottland to climb, and the “24/8”

(01:22:23) – Patron Question from Laurent: How do you balance fatherhood and climbing? Any secret beta for a new father who’d like to keep improving at climbing while being present in his daughter’s life?

(01:25:59) – Patron Question from Eric: Any recommendations for injury-prone climbers?

(01:30:50) – Favorite discipline of climbing

(01:32:05) – Last meal

(01:32:39) – Recommended books

(01:36:24) – Advice for his 20-year-old self

(01:37:26) – Advice for his 30-year-old self

(01:39:52) – Defining climbing moments

(01:42:14) – One of the best decisions Dave has ever made

(01:42:54) – Gratitude

(01:44:21) – Excited to focus on climbing

Jaksot(382)

EP 32: Natasha Barnes — Myths and Truths of Strength Training, Calorie Balance, and The Power Mullet

EP 32: Natasha Barnes — Myths and Truths of Strength Training, Calorie Balance, and The Power Mullet

Natasha Barnes is a former professional climber, a national powerlifting champion, and a licensed chiropractor who specializes in strength training and rehabilitation for rock climbers. We talked abou...

24 Elo 20201h 58min

EP 31: Maya Madere — Windsurfing, Endurance Training for Boulderers, and Trusting Intuition

EP 31: Maya Madere — Windsurfing, Endurance Training for Boulderers, and Trusting Intuition

Maya Madere is a 21-year-old comp kid from Austin, TX. We talked about attending school at Stanford and studying computer science, the endurance training program that helped her transition from boulde...

17 Elo 20201h 48min

EP 30: Connor Herson — Fourteen 5.14s at Fourteen, Big Wall Free Climbing, and Power Training on a Home Wall

EP 30: Connor Herson — Fourteen 5.14s at Fourteen, Big Wall Free Climbing, and Power Training on a Home Wall

Connor Herson is the kid who free climbed ‘The Nose’ at fifteen years old. What most people don’t know is that he is also an incredible sport climber. We talked about his sport climbing goal at age fo...

10 Elo 20201h 23min

EP 29: Tyson Schoene — Building World-Class Athletes, the Value of Competition, and Drills for Every Climber

EP 29: Tyson Schoene — Building World-Class Athletes, the Value of Competition, and Drills for Every Climber

Tyson Schoene has been the head coach of the Vertical World Climbing Team in Seattle, WA for nearly 20 years, and has shaped some of the best climbers in the world including Drew Ruana, Sean Bailey, a...

3 Elo 20202h 23min

EP 28: Blake Cason on Radical Honesty, the Mindfulness Muscle, and Cycling Priorities

EP 28: Blake Cason on Radical Honesty, the Mindfulness Muscle, and Cycling Priorities

Blake Cason is a mindfulness and work/life balance coach, and the founder of Pivot Wellness. We talked about bringing awareness to our relationship with climbing, practicing radical honesty, ways of s...

27 Heinä 20201h 46min

EP 27: Audrey Sniezek — Corporate Work, Starting A Gym, and Telling Yourself You Belong

EP 27: Audrey Sniezek — Corporate Work, Starting A Gym, and Telling Yourself You Belong

Audrey Sniezek is a software engineer for Microsoft and a former professional climber. We talked about her beginnings in both computer science and climbing, becoming a morning person, her 4 a.m. warmu...

20 Heinä 20201h 50min

EP 26: Ben Herrington — Go-To Training Sessions, Skateboarding, and Obsessive Compulsion

EP 26: Ben Herrington — Go-To Training Sessions, Skateboarding, and Obsessive Compulsion

Ben Herrington is a professional route setter and likely Washington’s most prolific boulderer. We talked about why Ben performs best as a “weekend warrior”, his three go-to training sessions, mistakes...

13 Heinä 20201h 41min

EP 25: Nathan Hadley — Circuit Sessions, Onsight Practice, and Establishing the First 5.14 at Index

EP 25: Nathan Hadley — Circuit Sessions, Onsight Practice, and Establishing the First 5.14 at Index

Nathan Hadley is a professional route setter and an all-around rock climber. We talked about completing the Canadian Alpine Trilogy, the benefits of training using bouldering circuits, how to practice...

6 Heinä 20201h 24min

Suosittua kategoriassa Koulutus

rss-murhan-anatomia
psykopodiaa-podcast
voi-hyvin-meditaatiot-2
rss-narsisti
adhd-podi
rss-liian-kuuma-peruna
rss-niinku-asia-on
aamukahvilla
rss-valo-minussa-2
rss-koira-haudattuna
kesken
psykologia
ihminen-tavattavissa-tommy-hellsten-instituutti
rss-vapaudu-voimaasi
rss-arkea-ja-aurinkoa-podcast-espanjasta
leveli
rss-luonnollinen-synnytys-podcast
aloita-meditaatio
jari-sarasvuo-podcast
rss-taloustaito-podcast