EP 62: Q&A 1 — How We Get Strong, Dealing with Injuries, and Patterns Among High Performers

EP 62: Q&A 1 — How We Get Strong, Dealing with Injuries, and Patterns Among High Performers

In this Q&A, I tackle some of my patron’s most burning questions about how we getting stronger, takeaways from my experiments with nutrition and intermittent fasting, dealing with injuries, favorite training playlists and climbing books, life on the road, patterns I’ve noticed among high performers, dream guests, recommendations for first-time trainers, and much more.

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Learn more about Q&As:

thenuggetclimbing.com/bonus-content

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-1

Nuggets:

00:00 – Q&A introduction, Patreon tiers, and format

06:53 – Nico’s Question: Tactics for mini-projects/quick ticks?

12:47 – Tony’s Question: Least favorite climbing shoe?

14:15 – Tony’s Question: If you could do an episode with one deceased person, who would it be?

14:49 – Tony’s Question: Favorite climbing-related book?

15:50 – Tony’s Question: Worst climbing bodily function story?

17:00 – Emma’s Question: How does training work, and what is happening in our body when we get stronger?

27:16 – Emma’s Question: Recommendations for training with a knee injury?

30:34 – Emma’s Question: Should I train my good leg while my other leg is injured?

31:44 – Katie’s Question: What inspires you the most aside from climbing?

33:34 – Adrian’s Question: Why did you stop intermittent fasting?

35:39 – Ted’s Question: Will carbs help me get stronger faster coming from a keto diet? And what changes have you made to your diet that have made a difference?

41:16 – Jasna’s Question: How do you mentally deal with injuries? How do you redirect your psych when dealing with a climbing injury?

50:35 – Darren’s Question: When are you going to tell us about anorexic Steven? And was it worth it?

51:32 – Jimmy’s Question: 3-week or 5-week training cycles: have you tried both? Which do you prefer?

54:58 – Jimmy’s Question: Favorite training playlist?

56:07 – Adriel’s Question: Advice on working through mental blocks, like fear of falling?

1:00:23 – Adriel’s Question: How much can you train a month sustainably?

1:03:24 – Adriel’s Question: Tips for hard finger cracks? (5.11 and up)

1:06:07 – Heather’s Question: Advice for someone who is interesting in training for the first time?

1:12:57 – Heather’s Question: What have you learned about yourself living in the van? And is this lifestyle sustainable for you?

1:17:01 – Heather’s Questions: What are some of your biggest climbing takeaways? Where would you be without climbing, and what has made you the climber you are today?

1:22:01 – Casey’s Question: Do you train on the road? If so, how?

1:23:19 – Casey’s Question: How are you structuring your Hueco trip?

1:26:47 – Casey’s Question: Why does everyone say your van smells good even if they are vegan? Is it because everyone needs beef? (just kidding… kind of)

1:27:32 – Casey’s Question: Bouldering diet vs. sport climbing diet?

1:28:35 – Casey’s Question: Favorite other podcasts?

1:31:00 – Casey’s Question: Thoughts on flexibility?

1:32:21 – Casey’s Question: Thoughts on warming up?

1:34:20 – Casey’s Question: If you could press a button and go anywhere, where would you go each day of the week?

1:37:11 – Steve’s Question: What patterns have you seen emerge among the high performers you’ve interviewed?

1:40:04 – Steve’s Question: Living on the road full time, do you ever get sick of it and just want to settle somewhere for a year?

1:41:13 – Jeffrey’s Question: Top 3 dream guests to interview?

1:43:45 – Jeffrey’s Question: What’s the most common weakness you see among top climbers?

1:45:40 – Ilkka’s Question: What about the ethical side of eating meat?

1:49:08 – Wrap up

Jaksot(382)

EP 16: Tara Kerzhner — Capturing Moments, Telling Stories, and Shooting What You Love

EP 16: Tara Kerzhner — Capturing Moments, Telling Stories, and Shooting What You Love

Tara Kerzhner is an award-winning photographer, cinematographer, and accomplished rock climber. We talked about being creative while stuck at home, the importance of shooting what you love, balancing ...

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EP 15: Katie Lambert — Improving Every Year, Balancing Multiple Disciplines, and Nutrition for Climbers

EP 15: Katie Lambert — Improving Every Year, Balancing Multiple Disciplines, and Nutrition for Climbers

Katie Lambert is an elite rock climber in just about every discipline of the sport. She is also a contributing author for Climbing Magazine, owns a business, and has a master’s in nutrition. We talked...

27 Huhti 20201h 35min

EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist — Current Training Methods, Second-Go Tactics, and The Fins Project

EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist — Current Training Methods, Second-Go Tactics, and The Fins Project

Jonathan Siegrist is a professional rock climber, and one of the most prolific sport climbers in the world. We talked about the evolution of his training, how he trained to climb 5.15b, current traini...

20 Huhti 20201h 57min

EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career

EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career

Bill Ramsey is a professor of philosophy at the University of Nevada Las Vegas and at 59-years-old, still climbs 5.14. We talked about his coffee addiction, his legendary training days and how he uses...

13 Huhti 20201h 40min

EP 12: Mike Doyle — Lessons From 10+ Years of Coaching, Onsighting Tips, and Working Extra Remotely

EP 12: Mike Doyle — Lessons From 10+ Years of Coaching, Onsighting Tips, and Working Extra Remotely

Mike Doyle is an elite-level rock climber who balances climbing with a career as a software engineer. He also has a long history of competition climbing and coaching. We talked about lessons learned f...

6 Huhti 20201h 39min

EP 11: Shanjean Lee — From Surgical Residency to 5.13+ Trad, Dating Your Climbing Partner, and the Importance of Self-Belief

EP 11: Shanjean Lee — From Surgical Residency to 5.13+ Trad, Dating Your Climbing Partner, and the Importance of Self-Belief

Shanjean Lee is an orthopedic surgeon and a badass climber whose accomplishments range from V10 boulders, to 5.14a sport, to 5.13+ trad and multi-pitch climbs. We talked about how SJ trained to climb ...

30 Maalis 20201h 58min

EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration

EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration

Peter Croft is an absolute legend in climbing. We talked about ‘The Shadow’ in Squamish and how his ascent became a climbing game, lessons from spending time alone, experimenting with burning fat for ...

23 Maalis 20201h 45min

EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training

EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training

Will Stanhope is a professional rock climber with many notable ascents in the realm of single and multi-pitch trad climbing, free-soloing, and cutting edge first ascents. We talked about Will’s recent...

16 Maalis 202058min

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