EP 74: Tom Randall on Patience, Finger Training, and the Late Night Climbing Show

EP 74: Tom Randall on Patience, Finger Training, and the Late Night Climbing Show

Tom Randall is one of the Wide Boyz, and the cofounder of Lattice Training. We talked about Tom’s cellar, meeting Ollie Torr and starting a coaching company, how he and Ollie trained each other's weaknesses, having patience, key shoulder exercises, hangboard principles, stories from the Late Night Climbing Show, and Tom shared his insights into my own finger strength journey.

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-randall

Nuggets:

3:35 – The cellar

6:47 – Patron Question from Felix: Why did Tom start Lattice Training, and how important is data?

11:25 – Meeting Ollie Torr and testing his finger strength

14:15 – How Tom helped Ollie improve his endurance and efficiency, and a message about patience

18:19 – What Tom did to get strong

23:14 – Key TRX and rings exercises for the shoulders

28:30 – My finger strength journey, and Tom’s insight into my training habits

37:59 – Finger training methodology, and off-season vs in-season training

45:50 – Is increasing training capacity (work capacity) a good goal?

49:20 – Hangboard protocol principles

54:47 – Patron Question from Sarah: Should new climbers “just climb” rather than train?

59:29 – Question from Steve McClure: Common deficiencies in route climbers who want to improve their standard?

1:02:39 – Question from Vijay: Relationship between finger strength and grade?

1:04:12 – Question from Lena: Favorite non-crack climb?

1:05:03 – Question from Lena: Most horrible crack climb you’ve ever done?

1:05:55: Bonus question from Lena: If you could put Jacob Schubert on any crack climb, which would you choose?

1:06:35 – Question from Nick: Balancing fun and hard work

1:08:41 – The Late Night Climbing Show

1:14:42 – The Lattice YouTube channel

1:16:02 – Gratitude

Jaksot(382)

EP 260: Caroline Ciavaldini — The Magic and Selfishness of Competition, Becoming Adventurous, and Gentle Feminism

EP 260: Caroline Ciavaldini — The Magic and Selfishness of Competition, Becoming Adventurous, and Gentle Feminism

Caroline Ciavaldini is a French professional climber specializing in sport, trad, and multi-pitch climbing. We talked about growing up in La Réunion, early climbing, her mother’s suicide, the magic an...

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EP 259: Randy Leavitt — Developing 1000+ New Routes, the Anti-dirtbag Lifestyle, and Why the Best Day of Surfing Beats Climbing

EP 259: Randy Leavitt — Developing 1000+ New Routes, the Anti-dirtbag Lifestyle, and Why the Best Day of Surfing Beats Climbing

Randy Leavitt is a climbing pioneer, prolific route developer, pilot, and surfer. We talked about training on the Dune Cracks with Tony Yaniro, inventing the Leavittation offwidth technique, his journ...

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Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Mindset Shifts, Choosing Finger Training Protocols, & How to Be a Pro-environmental Carnivore

Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Mindset Shifts, Choosing Finger Training Protocols, & How to Be a Pro-environmental Carnivore

Dave MacLeod is back to answer some of your most burning questions. We talked about notable mindset shifts that affected him, how to reconcile contradictory advice, how to balance longevity with pushi...

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EP 258: Louise Shepherd — “The Lynn Hill of Australia” on Her Dirtbag Days, Flying Breasts, & How to Save Arapiles Climbing

EP 258: Louise Shepherd — “The Lynn Hill of Australia” on Her Dirtbag Days, Flying Breasts, & How to Save Arapiles Climbing

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EP 257: Sol Wertkin — Surviving Cancer, a Richer Life After Climbing, and Saying Goodbye to Johnny G.

EP 257: Sol Wertkin — Surviving Cancer, a Richer Life After Climbing, and Saying Goodbye to Johnny G.

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EP 256: Stian Christophersen Returns — Training Smarter, Pulley Rehab, & Japanese Precision: Secrets to Climbing Stronger & Healthier

EP 256: Stian Christophersen Returns — Training Smarter, Pulley Rehab, & Japanese Precision: Secrets to Climbing Stronger & Healthier

Stian Christophersen is a physiotherapist, coach, author, and world-class climber. He returns to the podcast to discuss his new book about managing injuries. We talked about why only two days of hard ...

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EP 255: Dave MacLeod Returns — Moving the Needle on Your Climbing, the Value of Daydreaming, & How to Thrive in Your 40s

EP 255: Dave MacLeod Returns — Moving the Needle on Your Climbing, the Value of Daydreaming, & How to Thrive in Your 40s

Dave MacLeod is one of the best all-around climbers in the world. He returns to the podcast to talk about his new book, Moving the Needle. We discuss the simple decisions that led to his success, gett...

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EP 254: Best of 2024 (Including the Best of Patreon)

EP 254: Best of 2024 (Including the Best of Patreon)

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