EP 75: John Long — Yosemite Tales, the Love of Writing, and Opening Up About Alcoholism

EP 75: John Long — Yosemite Tales, the Love of Writing, and Opening Up About Alcoholism

John Long is an American rock climber and author, and one of the original “Stonemasters”. We talked about his early climbing at Tahquitz and Suicide Rock, life in Yosemite in the early 70s, climbing The Nose in a day with Bridwell and Westbay, most humbling moments, John’s new book Icarus Syndrome, and his recent article about alcoholism and drug abuse in climbing.

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/john-long

Nuggets:

3:33 – Nose picking, John’s nickname “Largo”, growing up in Indio CA, and being a part of two worlds

6:56 – The state of climbing in 1953, John’s early sports, white water rafting, and hearing stories about climbing

10:37 – Getting hooked on climbing

12:07 – Climbing at Tahquitz Rock in 1971, and jumping on board with new-age climbing

17:47 – Paisano Overhang

30:23 – Hangover

38:43 – Life in Yosemite in the 70s, and the rise of free climbing

47:04 – Camp 4 as a Babylon of rogues and boys club

49:28 – Jim Bridwell

54:23 – The Nose in a day

59:58 – Question from Ron: The bivy at the base of the Gold Wall.

1:04:08 – The cafeteria

1:06:54 – The Bob Lock Memorial Route

1:13:11 – Transitioning away from being “Joe Climber”

1:15:18 – Patron Question from Logan: Most humbling climbing moment?

1:19:12 – The present vs. the past, and gravity as the great leveler

1:21:56 – Question from Lena: What is more valuable in climbing, being a jack of all trades or a master of one?

1:24:05 – Writing, Hollywood, and Rogue’s Babylon

1:30:19 – John’s writing practice

1:32:01 – Alcoholism and substance abuse

1:45:01 – Icarus Syndrome

1:53:03 – Gifts and wrinkles

1:54:01 – Gratitude

Jaksot(382)

EP 171: Leo Houlding — A Life of Adventure, Climbing Big Walls With Kids, and Epic Stories From El Cap

EP 171: Leo Houlding — A Life of Adventure, Climbing Big Walls With Kids, and Epic Stories From El Cap

Leo Houlding is one of the greatest adventure climbers of all time. He’s put up new free routes worldwide from the Amazon Rainforest to the remote regions of Antarctica. We talked about his upcoming t...

29 Touko 20232h 29min

BONUS: Ron Kauk — Spiritual Revolution for Evolution

BONUS: Ron Kauk — Spiritual Revolution for Evolution

An interesting conversation with Ron Kauk. Enjoy :)Donate to Sacred Rok:sacredrok.orgSupport the Nugget and Sacred Rok:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingRon's Other Episodes:EP 69: Ron Kauk (May 17, 2021)F...

25 Touko 20231h 17min

EP 170: Karly Rager & Casey Elliott — What the Data Says About Weight, Height, and Ape Index, and Which Metrics Matter for Climbing Performance

EP 170: Karly Rager & Casey Elliott — What the Data Says About Weight, Height, and Ape Index, and Which Metrics Matter for Climbing Performance

Karly Rager is back on the podcast and is joined by Casey Elliott to talk about the factors that affect climbing performance. We’ve got three engineers in one podcast, and we geek out on the data! Do ...

22 Touko 20231h 58min

Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — Active Recovery: Everything You Need to Know (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — Active Recovery: Everything You Need to Know (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Steve Bechtel is back on the podcast for a deep dive into active recovery. We discuss what the research says about active vs. passive recovery, wh...

18 Touko 202334min

EP 169: Scott Johnston — A Masterclass in Training Principles, and Why Boulderers Should Train Their Aerobic System

EP 169: Scott Johnston — A Masterclass in Training Principles, and Why Boulderers Should Train Their Aerobic System

Scott Johnston is a world-class coach who specializes in mountain endurance sports. This episode is a masterclass in training principles and is packed full of nuggets for climbers, including boulderer...

15 Touko 20233h 5min

EP 168: Don McGrath — Rewriting Unhelpful Scripts, How to Tackle Fear of Falling, and Playing as We Age

EP 168: Don McGrath — Rewriting Unhelpful Scripts, How to Tackle Fear of Falling, and Playing as We Age

Don McGrath is the author of Vertical Mind and an expert on mental training for climbing. We talked about the two simple diet changes he made to get back in shape in his 60s, our untapped potential in...

8 Touko 20232h 11min

Climbing Gold — Hot Henry

Climbing Gold — Hot Henry

Have you listened to Climbing Gold?! The new season is here! Check out the first episode of the new season, and subscribe to Climbing Gold on your favorite podcast app for more great climbing stories....

4 Touko 202342min

EP 167: Alex Honnold — Epic Solos That Nobody Heard About, Near Misses, and Sh*tting His Pants While Free Soloing

EP 167: Alex Honnold — Epic Solos That Nobody Heard About, Near Misses, and Sh*tting His Pants While Free Soloing

Alex Honnold is on the podcast! Who? The guy that free handed Yellowstone? Close enough.  Seriously though, this was such a great interview. We talked about his two most epic solos that nobody heard a...

1 Touko 20231h 45min

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