EP 75: John Long — Yosemite Tales, the Love of Writing, and Opening Up About Alcoholism

EP 75: John Long — Yosemite Tales, the Love of Writing, and Opening Up About Alcoholism

John Long is an American rock climber and author, and one of the original “Stonemasters”. We talked about his early climbing at Tahquitz and Suicide Rock, life in Yosemite in the early 70s, climbing The Nose in a day with Bridwell and Westbay, most humbling moments, John’s new book Icarus Syndrome, and his recent article about alcoholism and drug abuse in climbing.

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/john-long

Nuggets:

3:33 – Nose picking, John’s nickname “Largo”, growing up in Indio CA, and being a part of two worlds

6:56 – The state of climbing in 1953, John’s early sports, white water rafting, and hearing stories about climbing

10:37 – Getting hooked on climbing

12:07 – Climbing at Tahquitz Rock in 1971, and jumping on board with new-age climbing

17:47 – Paisano Overhang

30:23 – Hangover

38:43 – Life in Yosemite in the 70s, and the rise of free climbing

47:04 – Camp 4 as a Babylon of rogues and boys club

49:28 – Jim Bridwell

54:23 – The Nose in a day

59:58 – Question from Ron: The bivy at the base of the Gold Wall.

1:04:08 – The cafeteria

1:06:54 – The Bob Lock Memorial Route

1:13:11 – Transitioning away from being “Joe Climber”

1:15:18 – Patron Question from Logan: Most humbling climbing moment?

1:19:12 – The present vs. the past, and gravity as the great leveler

1:21:56 – Question from Lena: What is more valuable in climbing, being a jack of all trades or a master of one?

1:24:05 – Writing, Hollywood, and Rogue’s Babylon

1:30:19 – John’s writing practice

1:32:01 – Alcoholism and substance abuse

1:45:01 – Icarus Syndrome

1:53:03 – Gifts and wrinkles

1:54:01 – Gratitude

Jaksot(382)

Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — When to Stick With It, and Climbing His First 5.14 at Age 47 (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — When to Stick With It, and Climbing His First 5.14 at Age 47 (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Steve Bechtel. We talked about when to stick with a training program vs. when to pivot, lessons from ...

11 Marras 202121min

EP 94: Nathaniel Coleman — Preparing for the Tokyo Olympics, Climbing in a Sauna, and Kendama Training

EP 94: Nathaniel Coleman — Preparing for the Tokyo Olympics, Climbing in a Sauna, and Kendama Training

Nathaniel Coleman is the men’s silver medalist of the Tokyo Olympics. We talked about his preparation for the games, training in a climbing sauna, the Olympic experience and winning silver, favorite r...

8 Marras 20211h 48min

EP 93: Tom Herbert (Part 2) —How to Relax to Improve your Passat Reserves, and Tom’s Life Story

EP 93: Tom Herbert (Part 2) —How to Relax to Improve your Passat Reserves, and Tom’s Life Story

This is part 2 of my conversation with Tom Herbert. Tom shared some clarifications about part 1, we talked about the nervous system and the mind-body connection, how to relax before a session to impro...

1 Marras 20212h 32min

Follow-Up: Natasha Barnes — Climbing Harder in a Stronger Body (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Natasha Barnes — Climbing Harder in a Stronger Body (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Natasha Barnes. We talked about how each of us has changed as climbers from gaining muscle mass, how ...

28 Loka 202122min

EP 92: Tom Herbert (Part 1) — Eating More to Train Harder, Protein Synthesis, and Carbohydrate Timing

EP 92: Tom Herbert (Part 1) — Eating More to Train Harder, Protein Synthesis, and Carbohydrate Timing

Tom Herbert is known as the usefulcoach, and is a leader in climbing sports nutrition. We talked about common themes in clients he works with, his philosophy of getting climbers to eat more calories t...

25 Loka 20212h 35min

EP 91: Craig DeMartino — Amputating His Leg to Climb Again, El Cap Stories, and Embracing a New Normal

EP 91: Craig DeMartino — Amputating His Leg to Climb Again, El Cap Stories, and Embracing a New Normal

Craig DeMartino is a rock climber, motivational speaker, and teacher. His life changed in 2002 when he took a 100-foot ground fall. We talked about Craig’s accident and recovery, the decision to amput...

18 Loka 20212h 43min

EP 90: Josh Wharton — Onsight Tips and Tricks, Training to Flash El Capitan, and Risk Assessment as a Parent

EP 90: Josh Wharton — Onsight Tips and Tricks, Training to Flash El Capitan, and Risk Assessment as a Parent

Josh Wharton is one of the most badass climbers you’ve never heard of. He does it all at an elite level. We talked about tips for hard flashing and onsighting, how alpine climbing relates to rock clim...

11 Loka 20212h 16min

EP 89: Q&A 3 — How My Training Has Evolved, How to Stay Strong on a Road Trip, and Life Mottos

EP 89: Q&A 3 — How My Training Has Evolved, How to Stay Strong on a Road Trip, and Life Mottos

In Q&A 3, I tackle patron questions about my two most successful winters of training on my home wall back in Bend, how my training has evolved and what it looks like now, how to maintain strength whil...

4 Loka 20211h 3min

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