EP 76: Q&A 2 — Party Tricks vs. Useful Exercises, Training for Long-Term Goals, and Octopus Wrestling

EP 76: Q&A 2 — Party Tricks vs. Useful Exercises, Training for Long-Term Goals, and Octopus Wrestling

In Q&A 2, I tackle patron questions about party tricks vs. useful exercises, training for long-term goals and what I am doing to train for Just Do It, how to prepare our bodies for tweaky moves, podcast behind-the-scenes secrets, my experience with feeling light vs. feeling strong, how I manage my weight after an eating disorder, favorite workouts for sport climbing, octopus wrestling, and much more.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Facebook Group:

facebook.com/groups/thenuggetclimbing

Private Q&As:

thenuggetclimbing.com/coaching

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-2

Nuggets:

00:00 – Introduction, Patreon, New Facebook Group, and Private Q&As

05:18 – Scott’s Question: Party tricks vs. useful exercises?

11:05 – Brandon’s Question: How are you training for ‘Just Do It’?

20:49 – Nolan’s Question: Regarding JDI, which skills/strengths fall short for you, and which ones do you think are adequate?

23:56 – Nolan’s Question: Can you build your sport climbing pyramid and bouldering pyramid at the same time?

29:02 – Conner’s Question: Is your current lifestyle (van, travel, podcast, etc.) financially sustainable?

31:11 – Jimmy’s Question: Favorite workouts for transitioning from boulder to sport mode?

34:40 – Liam’s Question: How do we balance climbing or training in safe positions, with preparing our bodies for tweaky moves?

37:20 – Alec’s Question: What does the edit process look like for you?

38:20 – Alec’s Question: What do you talk about in your pre-show call?

39:30 – Alec’s Question: Do you have any insights into learning to climb fast?

41:40 – Alec’s Question: Do you have any proud ascents from Hueco?

43:03 – Alec’s Question: How do you do weight training on the road?

43:54 – Alec’s Question: Area’s you’ll plan on climbing in for the rest of the year?

44:50 – Jeff’s Question: How does the sensation of feeling light compare to feeling strong?

49:30 – David’s Question: How do you manage your weight, and how do you manage your thoughts linked to your eating disorder?

53:54 – Emma’s Question: How can I get better at climbing technique? Is it as simple as climbing more?

58:00 – Emma’s Question: What exercises beyond the hangboard are most useful for bouldering strength?

1:00:12 – Casey’s Question: Any supplements you take?

1:02:02 – Casey’s Question: Tips for focusing before hard efforts on an onsight?

1:03:38 – Casey’s Question: Any thoughts on where you’d like to settle eventually?

1:04:33 – Casey’s Question: Any trashy TV you’ve been addicted to, or are you somehow immune?

1:05:52 – Casey’s Question: How much do you love watching good dancers on the internet?

1:06:34 – Casey’s Question: MAA match between 800 lb octopus and an 800 lb raccoon, who wins?

1:07:27 – Casey’s Question: What are you grateful for?

Jaksot(382)

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

Tess Driessens is a professional climbing coach and lives with chronic pain. We talked about getting diagnosed with five herniated discs from a cliff jumping accident, tools for chronic pain, why hope...

15 Huhti 20252h 39min

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

Dr. Keith Baar is a leading expert in tendon and ligament engineering and repair. Natalie Gilmore is a PhD student focused on climbing-specific research. We talked about the results of their recent re...

7 Huhti 20251h 23min

EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)

EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)

Connor Bodin climbed 30 minutes per day for 100 consecutive days to boost his endurance, and it worked. His critical force went from 30% of bodyweight to an impressive 44% of bodyweight, and his climb...

1 Huhti 202529min

EP 265: Katie Lambert Returns — How to Eat on a Climbing Day, Ingredients to Avoid, Nutrition on a Budget, Farm-to-School, & More

EP 265: Katie Lambert Returns — How to Eat on a Climbing Day, Ingredients to Avoid, Nutrition on a Budget, Farm-to-School, & More

Katie Lambert is an accomplished all-around climber with a master's in nutrition. We talked about how to get more value out of climbing trips, her training and cold plunge routine, perimenopause, her ...

24 Maalis 20252h 18min

​​EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama

​​EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama

Tony Yaniro is a climbing legend and the first-ever person to redpoint a 5.13b with his ascent of The Grand Illusion in 1979. We talked about his early years, handmaking cams in his garage, developing...

17 Maalis 20251h 55min

EP 263: Adam Ondra — A Conversation With the Best Climber in the World

EP 263: Adam Ondra — A Conversation With the Best Climber in the World

Adam Ondra is the greatest climber of all time. We talked about his trip to Smith Rock in 2018, onsighting Just Do It, what he was like as a kid, his 9c projects, Soudain Seul 9A, the Imhotep project,...

10 Maalis 20251h 51min

EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America

EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America

Max Didier is a Chilean big wall climber and alpinist turned boulderer. We talked about leaving the Air Force to climb, the value of exploration and adventure, his trip to India, maintaining simplicit...

3 Maalis 20252h 40min

EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path

EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path

Chris Sharma and Ron Kauk return to the podcast for a philosophical chat. We discussed early bouldering in Camp 4, the essence of climbing, the source of motivation, reinventing your climbing identity...

24 Helmi 20252h

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