EP 76: Q&A 2 — Party Tricks vs. Useful Exercises, Training for Long-Term Goals, and Octopus Wrestling

EP 76: Q&A 2 — Party Tricks vs. Useful Exercises, Training for Long-Term Goals, and Octopus Wrestling

In Q&A 2, I tackle patron questions about party tricks vs. useful exercises, training for long-term goals and what I am doing to train for Just Do It, how to prepare our bodies for tweaky moves, podcast behind-the-scenes secrets, my experience with feeling light vs. feeling strong, how I manage my weight after an eating disorder, favorite workouts for sport climbing, octopus wrestling, and much more.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Facebook Group:

facebook.com/groups/thenuggetclimbing

Private Q&As:

thenuggetclimbing.com/coaching

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-2

Nuggets:

00:00 – Introduction, Patreon, New Facebook Group, and Private Q&As

05:18 – Scott’s Question: Party tricks vs. useful exercises?

11:05 – Brandon’s Question: How are you training for ‘Just Do It’?

20:49 – Nolan’s Question: Regarding JDI, which skills/strengths fall short for you, and which ones do you think are adequate?

23:56 – Nolan’s Question: Can you build your sport climbing pyramid and bouldering pyramid at the same time?

29:02 – Conner’s Question: Is your current lifestyle (van, travel, podcast, etc.) financially sustainable?

31:11 – Jimmy’s Question: Favorite workouts for transitioning from boulder to sport mode?

34:40 – Liam’s Question: How do we balance climbing or training in safe positions, with preparing our bodies for tweaky moves?

37:20 – Alec’s Question: What does the edit process look like for you?

38:20 – Alec’s Question: What do you talk about in your pre-show call?

39:30 – Alec’s Question: Do you have any insights into learning to climb fast?

41:40 – Alec’s Question: Do you have any proud ascents from Hueco?

43:03 – Alec’s Question: How do you do weight training on the road?

43:54 – Alec’s Question: Area’s you’ll plan on climbing in for the rest of the year?

44:50 – Jeff’s Question: How does the sensation of feeling light compare to feeling strong?

49:30 – David’s Question: How do you manage your weight, and how do you manage your thoughts linked to your eating disorder?

53:54 – Emma’s Question: How can I get better at climbing technique? Is it as simple as climbing more?

58:00 – Emma’s Question: What exercises beyond the hangboard are most useful for bouldering strength?

1:00:12 – Casey’s Question: Any supplements you take?

1:02:02 – Casey’s Question: Tips for focusing before hard efforts on an onsight?

1:03:38 – Casey’s Question: Any thoughts on where you’d like to settle eventually?

1:04:33 – Casey’s Question: Any trashy TV you’ve been addicted to, or are you somehow immune?

1:05:52 – Casey’s Question: How much do you love watching good dancers on the internet?

1:06:34 – Casey’s Question: MAA match between 800 lb octopus and an 800 lb raccoon, who wins?

1:07:27 – Casey’s Question: What are you grateful for?

Jaksot(382)

EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training

EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3, we step into the weight room. We cover weight training fundamentals, including the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, the big 4...

16 Syys 20241h 32min

EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong

EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong

Girls Gone Hueco is an all-female bouldering film now available on Vimeo. In this episode, I sit down with V11 climber Midori Buechli and filmmaker Long Truong to discuss the making of the film, the p...

15 Syys 20241h 21min

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limi...

9 Syys 20242h 9min

EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall

EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2, we share our top tips for training on spray walls and home walls. We cover training setup considerations, route setting tips, best apps for saving and ...

2 Syys 20241h 10min

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain

Dr. Amy Frugé (DPT) is a former Martial Arts World Champion, rock climber, and the founder of Converge Physical Therapy. We talked about extremity and finger pain from unusual sources, how to maintain...

27 Elo 20242h

EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshop...

19 Elo 20241h 2min

Fundamentals Season 2 Kickoff

Fundamentals Season 2 Kickoff

We're back with Fundamentals Season 2! Jesse Firestone joins me again for six new episodes covering some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber. In season 2, we'll dive deeper into s...

19 Elo 20245min

EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest

EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest

Allison Vest joins me to talk about the Paris Olympics! We talked about our biggest surprises from the men’s and women’s combined semifinals, our thoughts on the route setting, what defines an “electr...

12 Elo 20242h

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