EP 83: Neely Quinn — Lessons from the TrainingBeta Podcast, Nutrition Advice for Climbers, and Kids vs. Houses

EP 83: Neely Quinn — Lessons from the TrainingBeta Podcast, Nutrition Advice for Climbers, and Kids vs. Houses

Neely Quinn is the founder of TrainingBeta, and the long-time host of The TrainingBeta Podcast. We talked about Neely’s health journey and discovering paleo, not wanting a boss, why she decided to create TrainingBeta, lessons learned from hosting 160+ interviews, injuries and surgery, project piano pieces, kids vs. houses, and her new puppy named Willa.

Support the Podcast:

thenuggetclimbing.com/support

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neely-quinn

Nuggets:

2:30 – The other side of the mic

4:11 – Singing and piano, and hating performing

7:21 – Connections between podcasting, climbing, and music

10:00 – Not wanting a boss, creating TrainingBeta, and Neely’s background in the paleo world

11:40 – Neely’s initial plan for TrainingBeta, and the podcast as an afterthought

12:35 – Scratching her own itch, getting fired, and brainstorming

16:48 – Downloads and reads, the weight loss topic, and my eating disorder story

20:58 – How to talk about fat loss, and how to do that in a healthy manner

24:09 – Writing a book about the paleo diet, Neely’s health journey, and the impact of food on health

29:15 – Neely’s diet before paleo

30:19 – Why Neely rarely recommends the paleo diet, and the individuality of nutrition coaching

32:42 – Neely’s most common nutrition recommendations (carb sources, protein, and artificials)

37:06 – Neely’s diet

39:06 – Chocolate

40:14 – Common symptoms that are often connected to food

44:14 – How to think about doing an elimination diet (if you are having symptoms)

47:44 – Patron question from PogoStickJoe: Efficacy from Collagen?

50:34 – Probiotics

53:48 – Neely’s nutrition coaching and program

55:22 – Neely’s surprise at the success of the TrainingBeta podcast and blog

56:56 – The early days, growing TrainingBeta, and different measures of success

1:01:31 – Balancing a business with climbing

1:02:27 – Commitment, and the entrepreneurial spirit

1:04:46 – Top lessons that Neely has learned from hosting 160+ episodes of the TrainingBeta podcast

1:07:54 – Mindset, self-improvement, and the early days of training content

1:10:31 – Some of the training exercises that helped Neely get to be her strongest ever, and wrist curls

1:14:02 – Injuries, handstands, and wrist surgery

1:16:26 – The ebbs and flows of motivation, and learning to be kinder to ourselves

1:18:23 – Imposter syndrome, and being a conduit for information

1:20:06 – ‘Tomb Raider’, and being enough

1:20:53 – Depression, comparison, and putting things in perspective

1:23:59 – Piano, music, and balancing passions

1:27:24 – Reality TV, and the Bachelorette

1:28:36 – Children vs. house

1:29:26 – Kids

1:32:36 – Willa and projecting

1:34:18 – Patron question from Howard: Favorite local gym and favorite front range crag?

1:35:32 – Rifle and the Red River Gorge

1:36:29 – Getting recognized at the crag

1:37:45 – New stuff with TrainingBeta, and adult climbing teams

1:39:56 – Gratitude

1:40:51 – Upcoming climbing trips, and closing thoughts

Jaksot(382)

EP 32: Natasha Barnes — Myths and Truths of Strength Training, Calorie Balance, and The Power Mullet

EP 32: Natasha Barnes — Myths and Truths of Strength Training, Calorie Balance, and The Power Mullet

Natasha Barnes is a former professional climber, a national powerlifting champion, and a licensed chiropractor who specializes in strength training and rehabilitation for rock climbers. We talked abou...

24 Elo 20201h 58min

EP 31: Maya Madere — Windsurfing, Endurance Training for Boulderers, and Trusting Intuition

EP 31: Maya Madere — Windsurfing, Endurance Training for Boulderers, and Trusting Intuition

Maya Madere is a 21-year-old comp kid from Austin, TX. We talked about attending school at Stanford and studying computer science, the endurance training program that helped her transition from boulde...

17 Elo 20201h 48min

EP 30: Connor Herson — Fourteen 5.14s at Fourteen, Big Wall Free Climbing, and Power Training on a Home Wall

EP 30: Connor Herson — Fourteen 5.14s at Fourteen, Big Wall Free Climbing, and Power Training on a Home Wall

Connor Herson is the kid who free climbed ‘The Nose’ at fifteen years old. What most people don’t know is that he is also an incredible sport climber. We talked about his sport climbing goal at age fo...

10 Elo 20201h 23min

EP 29: Tyson Schoene — Building World-Class Athletes, the Value of Competition, and Drills for Every Climber

EP 29: Tyson Schoene — Building World-Class Athletes, the Value of Competition, and Drills for Every Climber

Tyson Schoene has been the head coach of the Vertical World Climbing Team in Seattle, WA for nearly 20 years, and has shaped some of the best climbers in the world including Drew Ruana, Sean Bailey, a...

3 Elo 20202h 23min

EP 28: Blake Cason on Radical Honesty, the Mindfulness Muscle, and Cycling Priorities

EP 28: Blake Cason on Radical Honesty, the Mindfulness Muscle, and Cycling Priorities

Blake Cason is a mindfulness and work/life balance coach, and the founder of Pivot Wellness. We talked about bringing awareness to our relationship with climbing, practicing radical honesty, ways of s...

27 Heinä 20201h 46min

EP 27: Audrey Sniezek — Corporate Work, Starting A Gym, and Telling Yourself You Belong

EP 27: Audrey Sniezek — Corporate Work, Starting A Gym, and Telling Yourself You Belong

Audrey Sniezek is a software engineer for Microsoft and a former professional climber. We talked about her beginnings in both computer science and climbing, becoming a morning person, her 4 a.m. warmu...

20 Heinä 20201h 50min

EP 26: Ben Herrington — Go-To Training Sessions, Skateboarding, and Obsessive Compulsion

EP 26: Ben Herrington — Go-To Training Sessions, Skateboarding, and Obsessive Compulsion

Ben Herrington is a professional route setter and likely Washington’s most prolific boulderer. We talked about why Ben performs best as a “weekend warrior”, his three go-to training sessions, mistakes...

13 Heinä 20201h 41min

EP 25: Nathan Hadley — Circuit Sessions, Onsight Practice, and Establishing the First 5.14 at Index

EP 25: Nathan Hadley — Circuit Sessions, Onsight Practice, and Establishing the First 5.14 at Index

Nathan Hadley is a professional route setter and an all-around rock climber. We talked about completing the Canadian Alpine Trilogy, the benefits of training using bouldering circuits, how to practice...

6 Heinä 20201h 24min

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