EP 83: Neely Quinn — Lessons from the TrainingBeta Podcast, Nutrition Advice for Climbers, and Kids vs. Houses

EP 83: Neely Quinn — Lessons from the TrainingBeta Podcast, Nutrition Advice for Climbers, and Kids vs. Houses

Neely Quinn is the founder of TrainingBeta, and the long-time host of The TrainingBeta Podcast. We talked about Neely’s health journey and discovering paleo, not wanting a boss, why she decided to create TrainingBeta, lessons learned from hosting 160+ interviews, injuries and surgery, project piano pieces, kids vs. houses, and her new puppy named Willa.

Support the Podcast:

thenuggetclimbing.com/support

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neely-quinn

Nuggets:

2:30 – The other side of the mic

4:11 – Singing and piano, and hating performing

7:21 – Connections between podcasting, climbing, and music

10:00 – Not wanting a boss, creating TrainingBeta, and Neely’s background in the paleo world

11:40 – Neely’s initial plan for TrainingBeta, and the podcast as an afterthought

12:35 – Scratching her own itch, getting fired, and brainstorming

16:48 – Downloads and reads, the weight loss topic, and my eating disorder story

20:58 – How to talk about fat loss, and how to do that in a healthy manner

24:09 – Writing a book about the paleo diet, Neely’s health journey, and the impact of food on health

29:15 – Neely’s diet before paleo

30:19 – Why Neely rarely recommends the paleo diet, and the individuality of nutrition coaching

32:42 – Neely’s most common nutrition recommendations (carb sources, protein, and artificials)

37:06 – Neely’s diet

39:06 – Chocolate

40:14 – Common symptoms that are often connected to food

44:14 – How to think about doing an elimination diet (if you are having symptoms)

47:44 – Patron question from PogoStickJoe: Efficacy from Collagen?

50:34 – Probiotics

53:48 – Neely’s nutrition coaching and program

55:22 – Neely’s surprise at the success of the TrainingBeta podcast and blog

56:56 – The early days, growing TrainingBeta, and different measures of success

1:01:31 – Balancing a business with climbing

1:02:27 – Commitment, and the entrepreneurial spirit

1:04:46 – Top lessons that Neely has learned from hosting 160+ episodes of the TrainingBeta podcast

1:07:54 – Mindset, self-improvement, and the early days of training content

1:10:31 – Some of the training exercises that helped Neely get to be her strongest ever, and wrist curls

1:14:02 – Injuries, handstands, and wrist surgery

1:16:26 – The ebbs and flows of motivation, and learning to be kinder to ourselves

1:18:23 – Imposter syndrome, and being a conduit for information

1:20:06 – ‘Tomb Raider’, and being enough

1:20:53 – Depression, comparison, and putting things in perspective

1:23:59 – Piano, music, and balancing passions

1:27:24 – Reality TV, and the Bachelorette

1:28:36 – Children vs. house

1:29:26 – Kids

1:32:36 – Willa and projecting

1:34:18 – Patron question from Howard: Favorite local gym and favorite front range crag?

1:35:32 – Rifle and the Red River Gorge

1:36:29 – Getting recognized at the crag

1:37:45 – New stuff with TrainingBeta, and adult climbing teams

1:39:56 – Gratitude

1:40:51 – Upcoming climbing trips, and closing thoughts

Jaksot(382)

EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training

EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3, we step into the weight room. We cover weight training fundamentals, including the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, the big 4...

16 Syys 20241h 32min

EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong

EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong

Girls Gone Hueco is an all-female bouldering film now available on Vimeo. In this episode, I sit down with V11 climber Midori Buechli and filmmaker Long Truong to discuss the making of the film, the p...

15 Syys 20241h 21min

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limi...

9 Syys 20242h 9min

EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall

EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2, we share our top tips for training on spray walls and home walls. We cover training setup considerations, route setting tips, best apps for saving and ...

2 Syys 20241h 10min

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain

Dr. Amy Frugé (DPT) is a former Martial Arts World Champion, rock climber, and the founder of Converge Physical Therapy. We talked about extremity and finger pain from unusual sources, how to maintain...

27 Elo 20242h

EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshop...

19 Elo 20241h 2min

Fundamentals Season 2 Kickoff

Fundamentals Season 2 Kickoff

We're back with Fundamentals Season 2! Jesse Firestone joins me again for six new episodes covering some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber. In season 2, we'll dive deeper into s...

19 Elo 20245min

EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest

EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest

Allison Vest joins me to talk about the Paris Olympics! We talked about our biggest surprises from the men’s and women’s combined semifinals, our thoughts on the route setting, what defines an “electr...

12 Elo 20242h

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