EP 91: Craig DeMartino — Amputating His Leg to Climb Again, El Cap Stories, and Embracing a New Normal

Keenan betrays his mustache by revealing its deepest secrets, and then talks about his experience with 'Insomniac' V16, his trips to Japan, what stood out to him about the Japanese climbing culture, favorite anime, home wall dreams, footwork tips, and his nearest misses while highballing and how they changed his feelings about future highballs.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! The full version is 57:20.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWatch the Video Interview:EXTRA: Keenan Takahashi — Uncut VideoNuggets:(00:00:00) – Mustache Q&A Part 1(00:07:38) – Sticky climber(00:09:00) – Finger strength(00:13:29) – Aesthetics(00:15:56) – Insomniac(00:17:42) – Japanese climbing culture(00:25:32) – Logistics of traveling to Japan(00:26:33) – Anime(00:27:07) – Realizing his potential(00:32:23) – Home wall dreams (00:35:20) – Ethan and Lucas(00:37:19) – Mustache Q&A Part 2(00:39:09) – Best climbing years(00:42:12) – Footwork tips(00:45:39) – Benchmark Berkeley(00:46:14) – Shoutout(00:46:26) – Fast food(00:47:20) – A Little Life and highballing(00:50:09) – Doomsday(00:54:37) – Future highballs

30 Touko 202416min

Keenan Takahashi is one of the top boulders in the world. We talked about the origin story of his clothing company ANTIGRAV, the importance of carving out space for creativity, establishing his latest V15 FA ‘The Gold Standard’, watching Sean Bailey send ‘Devilution’, unclimbed king lines in Bishop, shifting his focus to meaningful hard climbs, his stubbornness, why trying limit moves makes him a better climber, learning the macro from the micro, accessing try hard, why he started training, upcoming goals, and much more! I’ve wanted to talk to Keenan since the very beginning of the podcast, and this turned out to be one of my all-time favorite interviews.Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoesCheck out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/keenan-takahashiNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:47) – Kalkoentjie(00:06:22) – Buried in admin(00:09:48) – What Keenan’s life looks like(00:15:25) – Taking space(00:18:08) – The origin story of ANTIGRAV(00:28:02) – Selling an emotion(00:32:47) – Making a climbing pant(00:34:12) – Creating value(00:37:56) – Exclusive brands(00:42:12) – The small drop model(00:47:48) – Committing(00:49:50) – Climbing better than ever(00:55:15) – The Finnish Line(01:00:13) – Jimmy Webb’s development in Tahoe(01:02:00) – Chasing dream lines(01:03:20) – Satisfaction(01:07:57) – 10 more things(01:10:23) – Devilution(01:15:51) – Unclimbed projects in Bishop(01:18:23) – The Gold Standard(01:43:47) – Stubbornness(01:46:20) – Learning from one limit move(01:49:33) – Learning the macro from the micro(01:51:52) – What he learned from Spectre(01:53:52) – Surrounding himself with stronger climbers(01:55:12) – V15 at 50, and working weaknesses(01:58:30) – Trying hard(02:08:11) – Passion and relinquishing obsession(02:10:22) – Cultivating fun(02:14:47) – Measuring progress(02:20:52) – The Dark Side(02:23:47) – Ireland plans(02:28:38) – Wrap up

27 Touko 20242h 36min

Alannah Yip is a professional climber from Canada who competed at the Tokyo Olympics. We talked about getting diagnosed with alopecia and the emotional journey of losing her hair, taking back her power, preparing for the Olympic Qualifying Series, lessons from Tokyo, mantras for slab boulders, her involvement with IFSC policies to prevent eating disorders and RED-S, her eating disorder as a teenager, why she plans to retire from comps, rock climbing goals, and much more!Become a Patronpatreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 220: Alannah Yip — Uncut Video!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoesThe Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alannah-yipNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:11) – Alopecia(00:07:31) – Identity crisis(00:11:33) – Deciding to shave her head(00:12:55) – Taking back her power(00:19:55) – Setting it on the back burner(00:25:33) – Training camps(00:30:23) – Alannah’s coaches(00:33:47) – Training for Paris vs. Tokyo(00:39:26) – Feelings about Tokyo(00:42:08) – Lessons from Tokyo(00:44:06) – Training with other women(00:46:52) – Working on slab(00:50:10) – The Olympic Qualifying Series(00:55:00) – Olympic vs. World Cup lead style(00:59:27) – Why she quit comps during college(01:02:10) – Making the jump to World Cups(01:04:35) – Reexamining her relationship with climbing as an adult(01:08:54) – Engineering & coaching(01:11:28) – Excited to retire from comps(01:18:24) – IFSC policies to prevent eating disorders & RED-S(01:30:05) – Self-reporting & BMI(01:35:39) – Alannah’s eating disorder as a teenager(01:41:53) – The turning point(01:43:50) – Dealing with hard moments(01:45:30) – Conflicted feelings about food(01:48:13) – Alannah’s PSAs(01:50:15) – My PSA(01:53:03) – Mutual appreciation(01:55:05) – What’s next(01:56:24) – Rapid fire Qs(02:01:21) – Occasionally on Instagram(02:04:49) – Wrap up

20 Touko 20242h 7min

Fitz Cahall is the cofounder of Duct Tape Then Beer, and the creator of The Dirtbag Diaries and Climbing Gold with Alex Honnold. We talked about the early days of the internet, what podcasting was like in 2007, being on the fringe, storytelling, virtual reality, spending your time on the right things, the unglamorous parts of our work, results vs. success, his new book States of Adventure, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 219: Fitz Cahall — Uncut Video!Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoesCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fitz-cahallNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:30) – A typical workday(00:06:32) – Early days of the internet(00:10:12) – Starting to climb(00:14:45) – Writing for outdoor magazines(00:19:48) – The fringe(00:22:42) – Creating the Dirtbag Diaries(00:33:40) – Storytelling(00:38:08) – Podcasting in 2007(00:50:47) – Early video podcasts(00:55:32) – Virtual reality(01:02:48) – Being pro but not fancy(01:05:45) – Choosing stories(01:13:19) – His new book(01:18:04) – A Lifeline Home(01:23:20) – States of Adventure(01:35:54) – My own plans for a book(01:42:23) – Taking authorship of your time(01:50:25) – Spending time on the right things(01:56:09) – The unglamorous parts(02:03:20) – Giving yourself space(02:12:45) – Uberism & mediocrity(02:17:24) – Results vs. success(02:20:20) – Climbing Gold & the Olympics(02:28:46) – Wrap up

13 Touko 20242h 31min

Mat Wright returns to the podcast to talk about his send of ‘Rhapsody’! We talked about the emotional dip after a hard send, the power of letting things come to you, making your own luck, patience as a tactic, top-down projecting, feeding our internal climbing algorithms, his process and how it felt to send, his next project, learning how to take the pressure off, and much more! Get coaching from Mat!matwrightcoaching.comCheck out Kletterkalk UK!kletterkalk.co.ukMat's go-to chalk, and a great option for folks in the UK and Europe! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mat-wright-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:16) – Catch up and self-coaching(00:08:58) – The dip after a hard send(00:11:57) – Letting things come to you(00:15:28) – His approach to ‘Rhapsody’ E11(00:21:33) – Mindset and preparation(00:24:22) – Making your own luck(00:27:01) – Patience as a tactic(00:31:51) – Top-down projecting(00:36:15) – Feeding the climbing algorithm(00:39:57) – Self 1 and self 2(00:41:37) – The send(00:44:54) – The process(00:51:17) – The emotions after the send(00:54:57) – Mat’s next project(00:59:09) – Not taking it quite so seriously(01:03:08) – Taking the pressure off(01:11:00) – Taking time off(01:18:37) – Less vs. more(01:24:07) – Wrap up

10 Touko 20241h 30min

Dr. David Spiegel is a Stanford psychiatrist and one of the world’s most respected experts in the field of hypnosis. We talked about how our minds can make our bodies feel better, how hypnosis has helped his clients, why hypnosis is a good fit for climbers, breathing exercises for relaxation or focus, his new Reveri App, and much more. Dr. Spiegel does a self-hypnosis session with Steven to relieve stress and anxiety and you can follow along!Check out Reveri:reverihealth.app.link/nuggetclimbing👆 Use my special link to get 2 free weeks! Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing 👆 7-Day Free Trial! Check out the Arc'teryx Climbing Academy:squamish.arcteryxacademy.cominstagram.com/arcteryxacademy👆 Sign up and follow them on Instagram for updates! Check out Crimpd:crimpd.com👆 Download the Crimpd app for free! Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.com👆 Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO! Check out PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)👆 Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/david-spiegel Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:46) – Dr. Spiegel’s background(00:08:51) – My experience with Reveri(00:10:45) – Trying out being different(00:14:47) – Compassion for your body(00:16:35) – The stage hypnosis hustle(00:18:58) – Hypnotizability(00:23:51) – Cognitive flexibility(00:25:36) – The long-term effects of self-hypnosis(00:30:21) – Hypnosis is gaining control(00:36:31) – Is hypnotizability learnable?(00:45:20) – Climbing styles and hypnotizability(00:46:48) – Hypnotizability Test(00:57:55) – Discussing my results(01:00:10) – Anxiety(01:01:48) – Novelty, memory, and visualization(01:07:30) – More about hypnotizability(01:13:52) – Hypnosis as a tool(01:17:03) – Relieve Stress Hypnosis Session(01:31:49) – Debrief of our session(01:34:25) – Explaining the ritual(01:38:45) – The Reveri App(01:42:15) – How climbers should use the app(01:47:14) – Breathing exercises(01:54:19) – Putting it all together(01:56:31) – Final thoughts

6 Touko 20242h

This is a full bonus episode for Patrons! Maddy and I catch up about our weekend sends, Maddy shares a few key nuggets from our main episode, and then gives us a 2-hour masterclass in endurance training! Listen to the end for three free endurance protocols from Lattice's new online course that you can use in your training.*Use the timestamps below if you want to skip to the masterclass.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! The full version is 2:54:13.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingNuggets:(00:00:00) – Our weekends(00:07:30) – Key takeaways from our main episode(00:40:45) – A masterclass in endurance training

3 Touko 20241h 2min

Maddy Cope is a world-class rock climber and the head of education for Lattice Training. We talked about Maddy’s transition from dancing to climbing, living in a shack in the woods in Chamonix, and lessons from her personal reflections on climbing. We also talked about Lattice’s new online training course that Maddy was in charge of creating and gave a discount for listeners!Check out the Lattice Training Course!Ultimate Course + Assessment BundleUse code “NUGGET20” for 20% off!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoesThe Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/maddy-copeNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:09) – Food poisoning in the van(00:09:03) – Home wall training(00:13:59) – Overview(00:15:49) – Dancing to climbing(00:20:35) – Warrington(00:27:31) – The Cham Shack(00:34:57) – Discomfort(00:36:19) – Comfort creep(00:48:28) – Pleasure pointing(00:54:08) – Being your biggest supporter(01:05:22) – The joy of missing out(01:11:40) – Not having a bucket list(01:18:12) – Quitting social media and sponsorship(01:22:20) – Half thereness(01:26:11) – British over-modesty(01:49:54) – Getting into training(01:55:30) – Maddy’s role with Lattice(01:57:46) – Lattice’s new training course(02:07:47) – Who should buy the course?(02:16:45) – Online vs. in-person coaching(02:25:21) – Wrap up and discount code(02:30:18) – Identifying blind spots(02:36:15) – EXTRA teaser for Patrons!

29 Huhti 20242h 39min