EP 95: Tyler Algeo — Starting a Climbing Gym in Africa, Climb Malawi, and Raising Black Sons as a White Dad

EP 95: Tyler Algeo — Starting a Climbing Gym in Africa, Climb Malawi, and Raising Black Sons as a White Dad

Tyler Algeo is a Canadian who moved to Africa and started a climbing gym, with the goal of creating a socio-economically inclusive climbing community in Malawi. We talked about learning to climb in Ireland, living in Africa, founding Climb Malawi, adopting and raising his two black sons, Tyler’s work with The Climbing Initiative, and creating a better world through climbing.

Donate To:

safeclimbing.org

climbmalawi.com

climbinginitiative.org

Support the Podcast:

thenuggetclimbing.com/support

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-algeo

Nuggets:

5:05 – Living in Cincinnati and growing up in Calgary

6:14 – Learning to climb in Ireland

9:50 – Working in Ireland

10:13 – How Tyler and his wife ended up in Malawi

14:24 – Having to return to the States due to Covid, and salary differences between foreign workers and locals in Malawi

17:25 – Description of Malawi, the topography, and rock climbing

21:39 – The population of Malawi, and why so many people move there from neighboring African countries

24:23 – Day-to-day life in Malawi

27:05 – Having a housekeeper, and the risks of creating an upside-down economy

30:05 – Good intentions gone awry

32:58 – Tyler’s climbing leading up to Malawi, and building a wall in his backyard

37:21 – The socioeconomic divide in Malawi, and how Climb Malawi was born

42:26 – Other artificial climbing in Malawi

44:50 – Outgrowing the backyard climbing wall

45:35 – Local climbing in Malawi

47:24 – The Climb Malawi climbing wall and location description

52:44 – Ernest

54:29 – Outdoor trips and introducing Malawians to rock climbing

55:31 – Memphis Rox as an inspiration, and the Climb Malawi business model

1:00:03 – The impact of covid on Climb Malawi, and Malawi itself

1:03:17 – Tyler’s continued involvement with Climb Malawi

1:05:38 – How living in Malawi has shaped Tyler’s perspective of what the global climbing community looks like

1:09:05 – Ugly entitlement, the game of climbing, and introducing people to climbing with humility

1:14:11 – The Chichewa language, and some route names and phrases

1:18:47 – Bodie and Moses (Tyler’s adopted boys)

1:22:42 – Tyler’s thoughts on moving to Denver with two black sons, and how to provide them with mentorship

1:31:33 – “Try to use your privilege with honor.”

1:33:16 – The Climbing Initiative

1:49:48 – How listeners can support Climb Malawi and TCI

1:51:45 – Tyler’s current climbing, and working on his mental performance and making sport climbing more life-giving

1:58:43 – Who’s doing the more impressive thing, climbing at your emotional limit, grades, and having a relationship with each route

2:03:01 – A better world through climbing

2:07:35 – Gratitude for family and his wife

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EP 303: Adam Ondra Returns — How He Prepares to Flash V15, and Why the Best Sport Climbers Are Also the Best Boulderers

EP 303: Adam Ondra Returns — How He Prepares to Flash V15, and Why the Best Sport Climbers Are Also the Best Boulderers

Adam Ondra is back on the podcast to discuss his incredible winter bouldering season, including four V15 (8C) flashes. We talked about why the best sport climbers can keep up with the bouldering speci...

13 Heinä 1h 43min

EP 302: Aaron Shamy — The Epic Comeback: Sending 5.14c After a 15-Year Hiatus

EP 302: Aaron Shamy — The Epic Comeback: Sending 5.14c After a 15-Year Hiatus

Aaron Shamy has an inspiring story: he won the X Games in the ‘90s, took a 15-year hiatus from climbing, got out of shape, and then began a 6+ year comeback that culminated in sending the hardest rout...

29 Kesä 1h 42min

EP 301: Matt Samet — Escaping Benzo Addiction, Rifle in the Early ‘90s, and Embracing the Moonboard in His 40s

EP 301: Matt Samet — Escaping Benzo Addiction, Rifle in the Early ‘90s, and Embracing the Moonboard in His 40s

Matt Samet is the former editor-in-chief of Climbing Magazine, a writer and author, and a sport-climbing pioneer. We talked about his decade-plus battle with benzo addiction, his advice for people who...

8 Kesä 2h 10min

EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

Jeff Patterson is a martial arts instructor with black belt equivalency in 6x different martial arts, including Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu, Muay Thai, and Tai Chi. We talked about how practicing the meditati...

25 Touko 1h 1min

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

Herm Feissner is a lifer climber based in Fort Collins, CO. We talked about doing the FA of The Practitioner V11 in Leavenworth, WA, in the early 2000s, his training philosophy at 53 years old, how hi...

14 Touko 2h 9min

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

Sonnie Trotter is a Canadian professional rock climber and one of the most accomplished and respected climbers of his generation. We talked about his goal to climb 5.15, my impression of meeting him a...

27 Huhti 2h 7min

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard

Peter Mortimer is an award-winning filmmaker (King Lines, Valley Uprising, The Dawn Wall, The Alpinist) and co-creator of the Reel Rock Film Tour. We talked about his latest project, The Dark Wizard, ...

14 Huhti 54min

EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency

EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency

Dave Thompson is a 5.14 and V14 first ascentionist, alpinist, and coach for Evoke Endurance. We talked about his early climbing in the North Cascade mountains of Washington State, doing the first asce...

7 Huhti 1h 46min

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