EP 97: Austin Hoyt — Favorite Zones in the Northeast, Rediscovering Old Projects, and Being a GUNKaholic

Louise Shepherd is a living legend, and has been called “The Lynn Hill of Australia”. We talked about climbing in the late 70s, her formative experiences, dirtbagging in Arapiles, onsighting some of the first 5.12s in Yosemite, access issues threatening Aralipes climbing, putting cultural heritage into context, and how climbers can help save Arapiles climbing.How You Can Help:https://www.climbingvictoria.com/arapiles Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/louis-shepherdNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:26) – Fahrenheit(00:03:09) – Australian bolting system(00:05:49) – Louise’s intro to climbing in 1978(00:16:46) – Dealing with health issues(00:18:36) – Formative experiences(00:24:34) – Flying breasts & Kim Carrigan(00:29:34) – Yosemite & yoyo style(00:36:16) – Living in Arapiles(00:49:09) – Guiding & The Millennium Draught(00:58:35) – Cultural heritage & closures in Arapiles(01:20:00) – How we can help(01:27:29) – Endangered species & preservation(01:34:15) – Potential outcomes & complexities(01:41:53) – Recap & wrap up

3 Helmi 1h 45min

Sol Wertkin is a former rock climber, cancer survivor, nurse, and avid mountain biker. We talked about new routing in the PNW, the “Golden Era” of Leavenworth climbing, the passing of Johnny Goicoechea, Sol’s cancer diagnosis in 2020, the long and difficult road to recovery, how e-biking saved his life, sailing, why life feels richer now that he doesn’t climb, and nuggets to help your own health journey.Feel free to message Sol on Instagram if you have any questions about cancer diagnosis or long covid. AG1:drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the Psiphon and Serratus Alpine Kits launching January 15th.Rúngne:rungne.info/nugget👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from RúngneUse code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sol-wertkinNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:00:57) – How I met Sol(00:03:56) – Depression & climbing roots(00:09:02) – New routing in the PNW(00:12:02) – The “Golden Era” in Leavenworth(00:23:37) – Johnny Goicoechea(00:28:37) – Training & sport climbing(00:31:27) – Smith Rock & Spain(00:35:40) – Getting diagnosed with cancer(00:49:07) – Lifetimes, surgery 1, & do the things(00:54:43) – Short of breath(00:59:12) – Systematic diaphragm paralysis, & surgery 2(01:03:33) – E-bikes(01:10:20) – Diaphragm plication(01:21:54) – Chylothorax(01:25:15) – The early stages of dying(01:28:39) – Surgery 3(01:32:31) – Planning for the worst, & getting discharged(01:36:40) – Bonus life(01:41:55) – A final hurdle(01:52:32) – Every day is a gift(01:54:14) – Sailing(02:01:06) – Replacing climbing(02:08:48) – Goals(02:13:59) – E-biking & ableism(02:19:07) – Why Sol doesn’t climb anymore(02:22:33) – A richer life after climbing(02:29:58) – Trail clearing & volunteering(02:34:38) – What’s next(02:37:44) – Healthcare & nursing(02:40:46) – Sol’s nuggets(03:06:19) – Let’s go!

27 Tammi 3h 8min

Stian Christophersen is a physiotherapist, coach, author, and world-class climber. He returns to the podcast to discuss his new book about managing injuries. We talked about why only two days of hard climbing per week is enough to get stronger, the Japanese method for building technique, load management, how to rehab a ruptured pulley, why optimist is important for recovery, training for tweaky holds and moves, growth plate injuries, mindset tips, and much more.Buy Stian's Book:adventurebooks.com/collections/climbing-books-guidebooks/products/the-climbing-bible-managing-injuriesRúngne:rungne.info/nugget👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from RúngneUse code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.The NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Tindeq:tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stian-christophersen-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:09) – Stian’s finger injury, & why medical professionals are cautious(00:07:40) – Practicing board climbing(00:11:55) – Outline of topics(00:15:18) – Most common climbing injuries(00:18:13) – Rules for preventing injuries(00:20:39) – How much hard climbing is reasonable(00:29:13) – Lifting weights(00:31:04) – The Japanese approach(00:43:43) – Finger training to prevent finger injuries(00:52:05) – How frequently should we change our finger training protocols?(00:56:01) – Cluster sets, & best pulling exercises to prevent shoulder injuries(00:59:25) – When to do extra strength training(01:01:47) – Sleep, nutrition, stress, & identity(01:06:45) – Regaining confidence after injury(01:09:45) – Optimism & discovery(01:20:42) – Is there an ideal way to rehab pulley injuries?(01:25:52) – How to rehab pulley injuries(01:35:14) – Loading & adapting from within(01:43:50) – The good news with pulley injuries(01:45:59) – Is surgery ever necessary for pulley injuries?(01:48:20) – How to reintroduce climbing after a pulley injury(01:51:20) – Reintroducing crimps & hard climbing(01:53:59) – Preparing for tweaky holds(02:01:08) – Individual finger training(02:05:57) – Training for hard shoulder moves(02:07:20) – Growth plate injuries(02:10:58) – Injections for finger pain(02:13:20) – Mindset tips(02:16:06) – Tall climbers, tendon strength, & talent(02:20:49) – Where to buy Stian’s new book

20 Tammi 2h 23min

Dave MacLeod is one of the best all-around climbers in the world. He returns to the podcast to talk about his new book, Moving the Needle. We discuss the simple decisions that led to his success, getting the basics right, how to climb harder in your 40s, the value of daydreaming, writing books, how diet affects mood, Paul Saladino’s meat and fruit approach, how to thrive on a keto diet, metabolic health, LCL cholesterol, seed oils, alcohol, the state of scientific research, and much more. Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.AG1:drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the Psiphon and Serratus Alpine Kits launching January 15th.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.The NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Tindeq:tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-macleod-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:34) – Themes for the today’s podcast(00:04:59) – ‘Moving the Needle’(00:10:54) – How curiosity feeds consistency(00:17:44) – Simple decisions that move the needle(00:21:55) – Time x mileage x variety(00:34:09) – Balancing projecting & volume(00:41:08) – Tree crimping(00:43:50) – Almost daily training(00:49:08) – The basics(01:00:38) – When to end bouldering sessions(01:06:38) – Rolling with the punches(01:13:31) – Managing training load & staying in the game(01:24:43) – Finger training(01:30:09) – An unlikely breakthrough (FA of ‘Bultitude’ V14)(01:37:09) – Finger strength PRs(01:43:42) – How to climb harder in your 40s(01:59:54) – Taking short breaks(02:02:56) – Daydreaming(02:05:30) – Making it hard to fail(02:13:27) – One thing at a time(02:17:19) – Writing books(02:25:25) – Factors that led to sending ‘Rhapsody’ E11(02:32:16) – Books vs. podcasts(02:34:35) – Confidence & conflict(02:42:06) – Dave’s experiment with a Western Diet(02:46:48) – How our diet can affect mood(02:52:26) – Paul Saladino, keto, fruit, & metabolic health(03:10:37) – Why Dave keeps coming back to keto(03:15:52) – How much protein Dave eats on keto(03:19:36) – Energy & weight management(03:26:40) – LDL Cholesterol(03:40:25) – Kitavan Islanders, heart disease, & lifestyle factors(03:46:51) – Seed oils & alcohol(03:49:25) – A need for unbiased scientific research(03:54:50)  Where to buy Dave’s book

13 Tammi 3h 55min

This is a collection of my favorite moments of the podcast from 2024, including some of the best Patreon segments. Enjoy!Holiday Gift Ideas:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/giftGift a Patreon subscription 👆frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugThe NUG 👆thenuggetclimbing.com/shopHello Friends merch 👆Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/best-of-2024Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:05) – EP 200: Brook Rabouotou (Patreon EXTRA)(00:14:29) – EP 201: James Pearson(00:32:30) – EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns(00:43:58) – EP 214: Neely Quinn Returns(00:50:30) – EP 216: Maddy Cope(00:54:30) – EP 221: Keenan Takahashi (Patreon EXTRA)(01:02:20) – EP 223: Aidan Roberts Returns(01:19:24) – EP 229: Shauna Coxsey(01:26:26) – EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest(01:35:08) – EP 240: Alex Megos(01:45:18) – EP 242: Molly Beard(01:53:02) – EP 249: Chris Sharma (Patreon EXTRA)(02:01:32) – EP 250: Beth Rodden(02:12:12) – EP 252: Justin Salas

23 Joulu 20242h 32min

April Davidson (yeahapril) is a rock climber and content creator. We talked about what it is like living with her blind fiance Justin Salas, growing up and moving to LA, losing her mom, opiate addiction, finding climbing, her Instagram career, health issues and adrenal fatigue, her experiment with the carnivore diet, responsible meat eating, chocolate cake, and much more.Holiday Gift Ideas:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/giftGift a Patreon subscription 👆frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugThe NUG 👆thenuggetclimbing.com/shopHello Friends merch 👆Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/april-davidsonNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:22) – Living with a blind man(00:07:33) – Why they quit vanlife(00:10:04) – Building out their van(00:21:02) – Settling in Vegas(00:23:44) – April’s relationship with climbing(00:26:18) – Growing up & moving a lot(00:31:44) – Moving to LA(00:33:40) – 30s(00:40:00) – Loss & addiction(00:49:06) – An abusive relationship(00:52:01) – Finding climbing(00:54:34) – Breaking free(00:58:56) – Dissociation & wasted time(01:02:13) – Support & accountability(01:05:21) – Her Instagram career(01:12:57) – Photography & video(01:16:15) – Going with the flow(01:17:57) – Weddings & elopements(01:21:10) – Health issues & adrenal fatigue(01:28:56) – The carnivore diet(01:35:25) – Getting strong(01:40:00) – Gut health & her current diet(01:43:52) – Vegan & vegetarian diets(01:50:52) – Responsible meat eating(01:55:08) – Quitting caffeine(01:56:37) – Food tracking(01:59:39) – Cake(02:00:28) – Rapid fire questions(02:04:18) – Narrating life to Justin(02:07:30) – Ultimate trust(02:08:34) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

16 Joulu 20242h 12min

Justin Salas is a legally blind climber who is a 6x National Champion and the 2018 World Champion. He’s also climbed up to V11 outside. We talked about what his visual experience is like, the psychology of an invisible disability, assistive technology, how he climbs, sight guides, projecting tactics, building out a van, the Olympics and paraclimbing competitions, visualization, being a changemaker, and much more.Holiday Gift Ideas:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/giftGift a Patreon subscription 👆frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugThe NUG 👆thenuggetclimbing.com/shopHello Friends merch 👆Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justin-salasNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:23) – Pulley injuries(00:05:26) – Vanlife(00:11:01) – Justin’s visual experience(00:15:35) – An invisible disability(00:23:37) – “Yes I’m blind, no I’m not.”(00:27:55) – Faces(00:30:45) – Losing his vision(00:35:59) – Denial, gratitude, & bad days(00:40:58) – BMX & getting into climbing(00:44:49) – Coping mechanisms(00:48:36) – Assistive technology(00:54:34) – How he climbs(01:02:26) – His first day of climbing(01:10:59) – Sight guides(01:22:34) – Footholds(01:25:29) – Stamina training(01:28:21) – Fred’s Cave & projecting tactics(01:33:14) – Getting inspired(01:36:34) – Texas Hold Em(01:37:32) – Assessing landings(01:41:31) – Downclimbing & approaching(01:45:04) – Toothpaste(01:47:58) – Specialized bikes(01:51:42) – Asking for help(01:57:54) – April(02:05:47) – Building out a van(02:10:09) – Vegas(02:12:56) – Nature is healing(02:15:37) – Overcoming fear(02:24:55) – Mitigating risk(02:27:29) – What drives Justin in climbing(02:30:48) – The Olympics & paraclimbing competitions(02:39:39) – Blind visualization(02:46:48) – Building a mental map(02:50:11) – Changemaker(02:54:40) – Faith(03:01:04) – Curiosity & learning(03:04:31) – A beautiful question from Andy(03:11:28) – “A house divided will fall.”

9 Joulu 20243h 13min

Eric Jerome is a V15 climber and prolific bouldering developer. We talked about getting hit by a drunk driver, how his injury led to a paradigm shift, why he is actively caring less about climbing, seeking the minimal effective dose, developing new boulders in the Flaming Gorge and The New, buying a house, his career with KAYA, the gamification of climbing, and much more.Holiday Gift Ideas:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/giftGift a Patreon subscription 👆frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugThe NUG 👆thenuggetclimbing.com/shopHello Friends merch 👆Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Green Chef:greenchef.com/NUGGET50Use code "NUGGET50" for 50% off your first box plus 20% off your next two months.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-jeromeNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:12) – Hit & run(00:04:42) – The recovery process(00:07:57) – A paradigm shift(00:10:55) – The Top 100 project(00:13:23) – A really fun game(00:17:08) – A healthier relationship with climbing(00:21:02) – Body type & relationship with food(00:25:12) – Finger strength & volume as a heavier climber(00:33:33) – Minimal effective dose(00:40:59) – Cycling projects & developing(00:49:02) – A new bouldering area in Utah(01:00:57) – Documenting new boulders(01:08:00) – Bouldering in The New(01:11:47) – Buying a house in West Virginia(01:32:37) – House swaps & gratitude(01:37:45) – More about The New(01:46:09) – Life going forward(01:50:02) – Summer vibes in The New(01:53:15) – Best lines in the UK(01:55:09) – Eric’s career with KAYA(02:03:19) – Building a database(02:07:25) – Gamification & misconceptions about KAYA(02:17:38) – Upcoming KAYA features(02:21:02) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

2 Joulu 20242h 25min