EP 102: Matty Hong — The History of ‘Flex Luthor’, Climbing Waterfalls in Japan, and the Camera as a Gift

Matty Hong is a professional rock climber, photographer, and filmmaker. We talked about what it was like to grow up in a climbing family, about making the first repeat of ‘Flex Luthor’ 5.15b as well as a history of the route and his thoughts on the grade, training for sport climbing projects on his home wall, climbing waterfalls in Japan, and balancing photography and filmmaking with climbing.

Check out Chalk Cartel:

chalkcartel.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!

Check out PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, and Jeremiah Johnson

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matty-hong

Nuggets:

0:05:51 – How Matty listens to podcasts

0:08:53 – Growing up in a climbing family, and his connection with his parents

0:13:10 – What his parents have instilled in him as a climber, and keeping the ego in check

0:15:23 – Early milestones in Matty’s climbing

0:18:41 – Loving all of the challenges and variety to be found in climbing

0:20:41 – Second-guessing the path, being grateful for climbing, and having a beginner’s mindset with photography and filmmaking

0:24:43 – Trying ‘Flex Luthor’ for a year, and the history of the route

0:30:26 – Meeting Matty up at the Fortress, and his process on ‘Flex Luthor’

0:40:45 – Patron question from Landolini: How likely is it that Tommy climbed 9b (5.15b)?

0:48:51 – Matty’s thoughts on grading

0:51:55 – Matty’s most memorable climbing achievements

0:53:53 – Climbing waterfalls in Japan with Yuji Hirayama

1:01:31 – Thoughts on adventure climbing, and his trip to India

1:06:19 – Matty’s campus board and home wall

1:09:29 – How Matty trained for ‘Flex Luthor’ on his home wall, and his relaxed approach to training

1:19:46 – Patron question from Adriel: Any tips for using bouldering as training for sport climbing? (And more about his training for Flex)

1:24:02 – Why Matty thinks sport climbing in a gym (vs. bouldering) is a waste of time

1:25:54 – Sport climbing is a strategy-based puzzle

1:28:37 – Goals and challenges

1:31:09 – Patron question from Ben: Do you have any bouldering or trad goals?

1:35:08 – Patron question from One_rocky_boi: How does Matty balance photography and filmmaking with climbing?

1:43:14 – The camera as a gift

1:45:03 – Matty’s proudest photos, and the challenges in filmmaking

1:49:39 – What’s next?

1:54:11 – Nocturne Op 62 No 1 in B (Performed by Matty Hong)