Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — How to Train Based on Your Finger Anatomy (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — How to Train Based on Your Finger Anatomy (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Tyler Nelson. We talked about a recent study Tyler did with 23 different climbers to measure their finger tendon and bone lengths, and their ability to generate force on different edge sizes. We covered Tyler’s latest recommendations for max strength finger training, how to get stronger on small holds, and when and how to use hangboard repeaters.

Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!

*The full version is 1:16:59.

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Tyler’s Original Episode:

EP 79: Tyler Nelson

Jaksot(384)

EP 162: Fundamentals — How to Structure Your Climbing Year

EP 162: Fundamentals — How to Structure Your Climbing Year

Fundamentals (Part 6 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I dive into how to structure your climbing year. We talk about the circumstances that led to some of our best years in climbing, the importance ...

27 Maalis 20231h 2min

Follow-Up: Emil Abrahamsson — Gaining Weight to Climb His First V15, Overhauling His Training, and Thinking Long-Term With Projects (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Emil Abrahamsson — Gaining Weight to Climb His First V15, Overhauling His Training, and Thinking Long-Term With Projects (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Emil Abrahamsson is back on the podcast to talk about sending his first V15. We talked about how gaining 15 lbs (6.5 kg) led to sending his hardes...

23 Maalis 202339min

EP 161: Sam Stroh — Botching It and Sending Anyway, and Biggest Lessons from Hard Boulders to Free Climbs on El Cap

EP 161: Sam Stroh — Botching It and Sending Anyway, and Biggest Lessons from Hard Boulders to Free Climbs on El Cap

Sam Stroh is caffeinated, psyched, and ready to send everything from double-digit highballs to free routes on El Cap. We talked about his early climbing and onsighting Moonlight Buttress (5.12+), our ...

20 Maalis 20232h 8min

EP 160: Fundamentals — How to Pick a Project

EP 160: Fundamentals — How to Pick a Project

Fundamentals (Part 5 of 6) — In part 5 of this series, Jesse and I share our tips and pitfalls for picking a project. As Jesse says in this episode, picking the right projects is a key part of having ...

13 Maalis 202359min

EP 159: Tom Randall & Sam Van Boxtel — Why YouTube is the Future of Climbing Media, and How Much $$ YouTubers Make

EP 159: Tom Randall & Sam Van Boxtel — Why YouTube is the Future of Climbing Media, and How Much $$ YouTubers Make

Tom Randall and Sam Van Boxtel are back on the podcast to discuss all things YouTube! We talked about YouTube as the future of climbing media, why Shawn Raboutou’s vlog is such a big deal in climbing ...

6 Maalis 20231h 59min

EP 158: Fundamentals — How to Improve Your Technique

EP 158: Fundamentals — How to Improve Your Technique

Fundamentals (Part 4 of 6) — In part 4 of this series, Jesse and I discuss our top tips for how to improve your climbing technique, and share common pitfalls that can prevent progress. These are funda...

27 Helmi 20231h 7min

Follow-Up: Tim Emmett — Lessons From 80+ Days on Era Vella 9a, and Changing His Diet to Thrive at Age 48 (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Tim Emmett — Lessons From 80+ Days on Era Vella 9a, and Changing His Diet to Thrive at Age 48 (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Tim Emmett is back on the podcast to geek out about his project Era Vella 9a (5.14d). We talked about his Fall 2022 season in Spain, lessons from ...

23 Helmi 202328min

EP 157: Jeannie Wall — Getting Stronger in Her 50s, the Value of Doing Challenging Things, and Slowing Down to Go Fast

EP 157: Jeannie Wall — Getting Stronger in Her 50s, the Value of Doing Challenging Things, and Slowing Down to Go Fast

Jeannie Wall (aka “The Energizer Bunny”) is a world-class skier, life-long mountain athlete, and obsessed climber. She cofounded Broad Beta to cultivate a community for women and genderqueer folks to ...

20 Helmi 20231h 51min

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