Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — How to Train Based on Your Finger Anatomy (Teaser)

Devin Dabney is a rock climber, routesetter, rapper, music producer, writer, and creator of The American Climbing Project podcast. We talked about using humor to talk about uncomfortable subjects, inviting people into conversations, how climbing saved his life after considering suicide, breaking down barriers to climbing, how competition makes us better, and making a difference in the climbing community.Support Devin's Podcast!patreon.com/americanclimbingprojectCheck out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/devin-dabneyNuggets:0:08:20 – Green screens and SpongeBob0:12:52 – How Devin and I connected, and binging his podcast0:17:41 – Devin’s vision for The American Climbing Project (ACP)0:23:30 – Using humor to poke at difficult subjects, and inviting people into conversation0:28:37 – Devin’s target audience, exposing listeners to different perspectives about race, and my (Steven’s) ignorance having grown up as a white kid from the PNW0:32:22 – Climbing as an escape, and connecting to the world around us as climbers0:33:50 – Plans for season 2 of ACP, and covering gender and sexual orientation in climbing0:35:03 – Rob, and the ACP blog0:38:23 – The skits0:39:40 – Devin and Rob’s mission to provide a tool to grow and improve the climbing community and redistribute wealth0:41:52 – The mixtape format of the ACP0:45:22 – The Black Square skit0:47:26 – Creativity, and sprints of inspiration0:48:44 – How Devin puts together one of his episodes0:52:10 – Growing up playing the violin, and getting into music production and rap0:55:58 – Devin’s 7 different jobs1:00:03 – The Great Equalizer, and Devin’s introduction to climbing1:07:13 – Feeling lost, drafting a suicide note, and how climbing changed his life1:09:15 – Studying architecture, traveling around the world, and sharing the real shit1:14:29 – Why providing access to climbing feels important to Devin, and the many reasons climbing is awesome1:17:09 – Barriers that keep climbing from being accessible/welcoming to marginalized groups of people1:24:27 – The discomfort of climbing, the civil rights movement, and why the history of climbing is white1:28:37 – Trading weed for moonshine, and the different experience of being with other white vs. black climbers1:31:24 – “I would never go hunting without a white person.”1:33:48 – The Halloween episode story, and photo releases in gym waivers1:41:58 – How the podcast has been received, and responding to criticism1:48:25 – Being reactive to headlines1:52:40 – Topics that Devin hopes to cover in future seasons of the ACP podcast2:00:12 – How to support the ACP2:05:28 – Plug Tone Audio, why Devin loves competition, and shared inspiration2:17:15 – Who Devin looks up to2:20:50 – Guests that Devin would love to hear on The Nugget2:23:48 – The depth we have as rock climbers2:25:45 – Climbers are leaders2:26:35 – What’s next for ACP

11 Heinä 20222h 35min

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Alita Contreras. We talked about mental training and how Alita trains her mind every day, what it was like working with Lattice Training, exercises and drills for improving foot tension, dealing with frustration during projecting, what it felt like to send Ferrari 5.14a, goals to climb more 5.14s, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:02:56.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingAlita's Original Episode:EP 87: Alita Contreras

7 Heinä 202221min

Zofia Reych is a Polish climber and anthropologist and author of Born to Climb. We talked about renovating their mid-18th century house in Fontainebleau, researching the book, identifying as non-binary and directing the Women’s Bouldering Festival, what it’s like to be autistic, key chapters in climbing’s history, losing friends in the mountains, and much more.Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr find Petzl helmets at your local climbing shop!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/zofia-reychNuggets:0:06:05 – Getting back from bouldering0:08:19 – Zofia’s 240+-year-old house in Fontainebleau, and fixing the leaking toilet0:11:31 – 12th-century castles, and what will be left of our civilization in 700 years0:12:45 – Growing up in Poland, and living and bouldering in Fontainebleau0:16:30 – Expecting to get better at climbing by living in Font, and my (Steven’s) experience with the 9-5 grind0:18:27 – Our education system in the US, having direction, and Zofia’s fascination with people who start things very young0:20:09 – Zofia’s mom, piano, and romanticizing about having a single focus in life0:22:02 – The immersive process of writing a book, and the impact on Zofia’s climbing0:25:26 – Negative vs. positive motivation0:28:27 – The cycle of falling in love with climbing, feeling drive, pushing hard, and forgetting why we fell in love with it in the first place0:30:05 – “Don’t push it.”0:30:53 – Why Zofia felt like they needed to write Born to Climb0:32:00 – An overview of the book0:36:14 – Doing research for the book0:40:38 – Zofia’s master’s thesis, and why it feels outdated0:44:15 – Zofia’s gender identity (they/them), and being the director of a women’s bouldering festival0:48:13 – Zofia’s Instagram post about gender identity (see show notes for link)0:51:01 – “There shouldn’t be one recipe for how to be a human.”0:53:21 – Autism, and using an inner formula to have conversations like this one0:55:35 – Acting0:58:31 – What Zofia is like when they are alone or with their mom, being childlike without filters, and dancing in public1:01:35 – Stimming (stimulating)1:02:18 – Being diagnosed with autism at age 31, and how that has changed Zofia’s life experience1:04:43 – Being introverted in a society that rewards extroversion, and telling your life story to someone you meet in an elevator1:11:16 – What Zofia does to recharge1:12:35 – Climbing alone vs. with a group1:17:58 – The scope of Born to Climb, stories from the mid-14th century hill walking, how polar exploration influenced climbing in the Alps, and climbing’s elitist roots1:24:35 – On Stolen Land, and the uncomfortable history of Yosemite1:33:21 – Loss in climbing, the fragility of being human, and exposing ourselves to risk1:43:40 – Being responsible for your own safety, and feeling empowered1:45:55 – TrueBlue1:46:57 – Why writing the last chapter of the book was the most difficult part1:49:56 – What Zofia hopes readers take away from Born to Climb, and being a tiny spec on the timeline1:53:00 – The existential sandwich1:54:32 – Who should read Born to Climb, and where to buy it (see links in show notes)1:58:21 – Time for a nap

4 Heinä 20222h 3min

Karly Rager is a structural engineer turned climbing coach, and the founder of Project Direct Coaching. We talked about Karly’s background and what led her to start her own coaching business, being a female in two male-dominated industries, mental strategies for developing focus and overcoming fear, transitioning between climbing disciplines, using injuries as opportunities, cultivating longevity in our climbing, valuing coaches more highly, and much more.Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/karly-ragerNuggets:0:06:11 – Literature, poetry, and public speaking0:10:07 – Engineering school, and rediscovering art0:11:37 – Karly’s background, studying engineering and working as a structural engineer, and discovering climbing0:15:48 – How climbing connects with the engineering and the artistic parts of the brain0:19:11 – Mentoring friends, and becoming a climbing coach0:21:52 – Mental strategies for developing focus, and being an observer of your own mind0:25:53 – Making mental training measurable, and mindfulness practice0:28:31 – Starting her coaching business (Project Direct), and figuring out which lever to pull0:31:58 – Developing skills, emersion, and learning vs. performing0:36:41 – The “Trenches of Transition”, and my (Steven’s) transition from Smith Rock to steep cave climbing0:39:26 – Having different grade pyramids for different styles of climbing0:43:51 – Karly’s 4 Pillars, and questions to ask yourself if you are considering getting a coach0:48:24 – How to get initial coaching experience, Karly’s leap from engineering to coaching, and recommended certifications for climbing coaches0:53:43 – Stacking her resume, and being female in a male-dominated engineering world0:58:23 – Being scrutinized as a female climbing coach, standing up for herself, and letting her guard down1:01:49 – Using respectful language, and Karly’s tip of pretending your email is addressed to a male recipient1:07:18 – Setbacks in climbing, breaking her leg, and the finite number of tears we have to cry1:14:30 – My (Steven’s) first finger injury, and the wisdom I got from my roommate1:17:45 – Using injuries as an opportunity1:22:47 – My (Steven’s) favorite climbing areas right now, and favorite crags in St. George, UT1:26:45 – New rock types take time1:33:01 – Trying to onsight ‘The Rainbow Wall’1:40:41 – Placing more value on ourselves as climbers and coaches, and being paid based on the scarcity of our skills1:48:12 – How we value overworking in western society, and why we should be encouraged (and paid well) to do work we enjoy1:52:56 – Karly’s “zone of genius”1:54:51 – Cultivating longevity1:59:36 – The eye contact drill2:01:50 – Give each skill 8-10 weeks of focus2:02:35 – Our body’s ability to remember skills and movements2:04:51 – Different learning styles, using imagery, and using video as a tool2:12:22 – Karly’s strategies for keeping her coaching businesses sustainable, having set days for specific tasks, and taking time off2:20:13 – Making coaching more accessible while paying coaches well, and other ways to pay it forward2:28:00 – Being a mentor and a mentee2:30:33 – How Karly is currently being a mentee2:33:46 – Karly’s hope for the climbing industry

27 Kesä 20222h 39min

Magnus Midtbø is a professional climber turned YouTuber from Norway. He has climbed 5.15b (9b), and his YouTube channel recently hit 1M subscribers. We talked about burning out on competitions and starting his YouTube career, the hard work behind success, favorite collaborations, go-to climbing workouts, and takeaways from training with Adam Ondra.Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr find Petzl helmets at your local climbing shop!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig LeeBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/magnus-midtboNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:06:39) – Burning out on competitions, and starting his career as a YouTuber(00:10:45) – Who is Magnus’s audience?(00:13:10) – Editing and perfectionism(00:15:59) – The hard work behind success(00:18:05) – Pacing and music, and making the films personal(00:21:09) – Being an interovert as a YouTuber(00:23:35) – Why YouTube Channels die out(00:26:16) – Making other types of videos outside of climbing, and not being afraid of trying new things(00:28:05) – Parallels between YouTube and climbing, and logging routes on 8a.nu(00:29:32) – Being known for his strength, and suffering during collaborations(00:30:19) – Free soloing with Alex Honnold(00:32:45) – Patron question from Cody: Which collaborations were the most fun?(00:35:59) – Jujimufu(00:37:54) – What Magnus learned from collaborating with Juji and Tom(00:39:37) – Getting criticism from climbers, and letting go of worrying about what other people think(00:40:49) – Anton the Russian Ninja Warrior(00:42:09) – What Magnus has learned from spending time with Adam Ondra, and surrounding yourself with people who make you feel lazy(00:44:19) – Finding balance vs. focusing on one thing(00:50:58) – A week in Magnus’s life, and why he doesn’t film many outdoor videos(00:56:37) – Common themes between top climbers, and how many of us overcomplicate our training(00:58:23) – What climbing means to Magnus now, and wanting to climb a V15 (8C) boulder(01:00:04) – Quitting coffee(01:02:05) – Magnus’s go-to strength maintenance session(01:04:12) – Why Magnus primarily climbs on commercial gym boulders(01:05:47) – What Magnus would do if he wanted to climb his hardest again(01:08:45) – Feeling healthier and happier at his current bodyweight(01:11:04) – How much harder Magnus climbs without a shirt(01:11:49) – Training on rock(01:13:45) – Patron Question from Andrew: Biggest takeaways from training with Adam Ondra?(01:16:39) – Watching tutorials on cameras and editing(01:18:33) – How collaborations come about(01:20:24) – Dream collaborations(01:21:34) – What’s next for Magnus’s channel(01:25:14) – Why Magnus doesn’t outsource his editing(01:27:26) – How it works to get paid as a YouTuber, and investing in climbing gyms(01:29:24) – What Magnus wishes he would have known earlier about YouTube, and wishing he hadn’t had respect for climbing grades(01:33:17) – How top climbers almost have two personalities, and balancing humility with confidence(01:35:18) – Learning to make fewer excuses, and other gifts from YouTube(01:37:22) – Traveling, hiking, and exploring(01:38:48) – What’s next(01:39:30) – Where to find Magnus on the internet

20 Kesä 20221h 43min

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Chad Andrews. We talked about selling his house and living on the road full-time with his wife during covid, the pros and cons of vanlife, being your own boss, and climbing full-time, how to have a healthier relationship with money, investing principles, book recommendations, and health insurance tips for the self-employed.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:14:38.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingChad's Other Episodes:EP 20: Chad AndrewsEP 118: Chad Andrews Interviews Steven Dimmitt

16 Kesä 202232min

Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist who specializes in climbing injury rehab and prevention. We talked about freestyle rapping, the most common injuries in rock climbing, how to prevent knee, shoulder, elbow, and finger injuries as climbers, warming up your fingers at the crag, what to do to help your body recover on rest days, and much more.Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig LeeBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jared-vagyNuggets:0:05:00 – J-Rock the hip-hop artist0:09:58 – Running track in college and getting into climbing0:11:25 – Getting excited about physical therapy0:12:24 – Hip-hop parties with grandma, and applying physical therapy to his own climbing0:14:36 – Becoming “The Climbing Doctor” and writing for DPM0:17:22 – Overly engaging our shoulders0:20:56 – Shoulder position for hangboarding0:23:08 – How has climbing changed, and how climbing injuries have changed0:26:30 – My (Steven’s) balance of climbing and training0:28:12 – Balancing training and climbing, and seeing more injuries from training vs. climbing0:29:33 – Most common climbing injuries (shoulders, elbows, and fingers)0:31:42 – Exercises for preventing climbing-related knee injuries0:42:01 – Knee exercises for drop knees0:47:19 – How to program your knee injury prevention exercises0:49:04 – Patron question from Tyler: Compound lifts vs. accessory exercises for injury prevention?0:54:57 – Most common climbing-related shoulder injuries, and why shoulder injuries are difficult to diagnose0:59:26 – Who to go to if you get a shoulder injury, and what to look for in a physical therapist1:06:03 – Research on shoulder injuries1:07:55 – How to prevent climbing-related shoulder injuries1:11:58 – Resistance Band Rows, how difficult they should feel, and sets and reps1:16:20 – Pressing exercises for the shoulders, how to fix scapular winging, and flys for elbow pain1:24:20 – How to prevent finger injuries, hand positions on the hangboard, pockets, and finger lengths1:29:56 – Torsion on the hangboard, and gaps between fingers1:34:49 – The rubber band exercise for finger gaps1:39:26 – Hangboarding as brushing your teeth1:40:17 – Warming up your fingers for a climbing session1:45:20 – Grab your finger and shake your elbow1:48:04 – Warming up to raise the temperature in your hands and fingers1:50:23 – Warming up with a portable hangboard1:56:00 – Golfer’s Elbow, and diagnosing other sources of elbow pain2:04:32 – Patron question from Felix: How do we know when to listen to pain, vs. ignore pain? (Graded Motor Imagery)2:10:27 – How to diagnose PIP or DIP joint inflammation in the fingers, and recommendations for capsulitis2:14:45 – Advice for pulley aches2:16:21 – Patron question from Ana: Thoughts on the long-term effects of bouldering falls?2:20:55 – Motion is lotion2:23:07 – Patron question from Shawn: What exercises should we do on rest days to help with recovery? What should we avoid doing on rest days?2:26:31 – Training and educating other physical therapists, and doing more research on climbers2:30:32 – Jared’s climbing and rope soloing2:31:40 – Wrap up

13 Kesä 20222h 35min

Carol Simpson is a 77-year-old rock climber and yoga instructor from Lone Pine, CA. We talked about growing up in the South in the 1950s, identifying as a “tomboy”, feeling pressure to be feminine as a teenager, embracing athletics in her 30s, discovering climbing at age 42, sending her first 5.12a at age 53, yoga as the fountain of youth, and ageism in climbing. *I loved this conversation. If you enjoy exploring different perspectives from your own, and hearing about others’ lived experiences, don’t skip this episode.Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig LeeBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/carol-simpsonNuggets:0:06:50 – A day in the life of Carol Simpson, and her home in Lone Pine0:10:27 – Moving from Vegas to Lone Pine, having different chapters in our lives, and becoming apathetic about the beauty around you0:13:23 – Being born in 19440:14:43 – Growing up in the South in the 50s as a “tomboy”, and feeling pressure to be more traditionally  feminine0:19:28 – Being raised to believe that women get married and have kids, and finding feminism0:22:08 – Our adult life begins at 300:23:46 – Not being able to get a loan for a car without a man to sign for the loan0:25:11 – Going back to school in her 30s with two kids, and starting to play tennis and running and trying other sports0:30:30 – More about being a teenager in the 50s and 60s0:32:58 – How the culture continues to change for women, and Carol’s daughters and granddaughters0:37:45 – Discovering climbing at age 42, and how climbing completely changed her life0:42:31 – Hitting the road to climb in her 40s, and early climbing training books0:46:00 – Art, studying interior design in college, and working in the big city0:52:04 – Scrambling a 4th class route, and getting a hard time for being a mountain goat0:56:04 – John0:59:58 – The book Lying by Sam Harriss, being honest with your partner, and some of Carol’s favorite climbing trips1:04:25 – How Carol and John navigate their political differences1:10:03 – What Carol appreciates most about John1:12:39 – “You can’t get off of the bus.” - Mark Twight1:16:36 – Redpoint climbing shop near Smith Rock, and redpointing Latin Lover 5.12a at age 531:24:29 – Question from Taylor: What are the things when it comes to aging as an athlete that people don’t think about?1:31:22 – Practicing yoga since 19681:34:26 – Carol’s current yoga practice, and the yin and the yang1:39:38 – The time commitment to see improvement through yoga, and taking care of your health1:44:35 – Working with Chris Heilman, and expanding her comfort zone1:53:59 – How Carol keeps her wits sharp, and how to remember names1:58:40 – 80% of life is showing up2:01:32 – Ageism, and showing respect for our elders2:08:59 – No limits

6 Kesä 20222h 17min