EP 104: Amity Warme — Crushing in Yosemite, Growing up in Gymnastics, and Eating More to Do More

In this bonus episode, Matt Sparks joins me to celebrate Earth Day by talking about the environmental impacts of chalk, best practices, and by offering listeners a discount for Pika liquid chalk. Shop Liquid Chalk:pika.life/productsDiscount Code for 25% Off:NUGGETDISCOUNTMatt's Article:https://pika.life/the-environmental-impact-of-rock-climbing-chalk/

22 Huhti 202135min

Natalie Duran is a “Proish Climber”, Ninja Warrior finalist, Guinness World Record holder, television host, actor, influencer, and scientist. We talked about her new rollerskates, growing up with the pressure to become a doctor, early YouTube fame, climbing structures, studying neuroscience, brain scans, overcoming fear, motorcycles, and making a TV show.Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/natalie-duranNuggets:3:16 – “Today is Thursday!”5:04 – Natalie’s new roller skates6:46 – Learning in the shadows… 8:10 – Style transitions9:54 – Who is Ninja Natalie12:41 – Born to be a doctor, growing up with parental pressure, and discovering YouTube17:19 – The Cinnamon Challenge, sharing stories, and going viral21:40 – A day in the life25:02 – How to stay organized27:02 – “The theme parks are closed so I made my own.”29:09 – The police code31:46 – The swing33:27 – Natalie’s gym circuit35:22 – Maintaining ninja abilities, and Ninja Warrior gyms 37:50 – Coaching ninjas39:07 – Brain scans, fear, and breathing43:52 – Running across the South African desert, and “Just Keep Swimming”45:26 – Thinking about emotions analytically, the placebo effect, and mindset47:47 – Discovering climbing, Natalie’s first car, and early competitions52:04 – Current climbing, and integrating climbing into daily play53:27 – Partnership, sneaking into buildings, and climbing cranes55:22 – Natalie’s goal of producing her own reality TV show1:00:01 – Stunt motorcycle riding and skydiving1:01:32 – Keanu Reeves and Jason Momoa1:03:30 – Motorcycle playlist1:04:57 – Emotional growth1:07:31 – Alone time, and gratitude journaling1:09:45 – Grateful for not having covid, and not being arrested1:10:41 – Snowboarding1:12:06 – Mom’s fight with cancer1:13:53 – Kid’s movies1:15:13 – Reality TV shows1:16:30 – Wipeout, and meatballs1:19:26 – Superhero outfit1:20:33 – The tucked-in side braid1:21:23 – Ninja Natalie’s superpower1:21:59 – Excited to travel again1:22:43 – Current work on Ninja Warrior obstacles1:23:45 – Natalie’s Instagram @ninja_natalie and website ninjanatalie.com1:24:46 – “Live every day like you’re a superhero. You don’t know what you are capable of unless you attempt to push past your limits.”

19 Huhti 20211h 26min

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Jon Glassberg. We talked about sending ‘The Nest’ (his first V15) and breaking down barriers as a “big” climber (6’3”, 190 lbs), we talked about some of Jon’s milestone’s over the years, how he trained his power endurance after sending the stand start’, projecting tactics, keys to success, washing his hands before tries, and more. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 1:00:20.

15 Huhti 202118min

Christophe Bichet is a world-class rock climber and a motivational speaker. He was born with a rare blood disorder called Fanconi Anemia and is also a cancer survivor. We talked about climbing as a metaphor for life, finding your “why”, learning new skills, how to achieve world-class endurance without training endurance, and holding on and letting go.GoFundMe for Kyler:https://www.gofundme.com/f/throw-down-for-kyler-pallisterSupport on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/christophe-bichetNuggets:6:55 – Christophe’s dimensions, and Fanconi Anemia8:50 – What I remember about Christophe, and why he doesn’t like knowing names and grades of routes12:14 – How Christophe relates to his accomplishments13:43 – ‘Big Mac’, Smith Rock, and why guidebook grades feel irrelevant to Christophe17:22 – How grades become limits18:49 – Growing up feeling different from his peers, feeling isolated, and regaining self-esteem through rock climbing20:59 – Living each day as if it was your first day vs. last day 23:59 – Christophe’s many eclectic interests26:34 – Gracefully saying no, and asking “Why”29:42 – Awaking people’s vitality, and the climbing metaphor: grabbing on to what is essential, and learning to let go32:13 – Cancer, and the grand piano bill37:14 – Letting go of his identity as a sick person38:34 – Approaching learning new skills like learning a new route41:50 – Learning from people who are better than us, and a common trap to avoid44:02 – How Christophe achieved endurance through training efficiency47:09 – Pretending to be someone you admire52:45 – Amy 55:33 – ‘Spank the Monkey’, and dedicating an ascent to a lost friend1:00:28 – “Stop and breath in the awe of being alive.” - Amy Frohnmayer Winn1:02:25 – Grateful to live in the mountains and have a daughter1:05:10 – Be light

12 Huhti 20211h 8min

Megan Mascarenas is a multiple-time World Cup gold medalist and the 2016 Open National Champion in bouldering. She is currently 23 years old. We talked about her fascination with puzzles, why she retired from competing in 2017, discovering a new self-identity outside of climbing, pole dancing, getting back to climbing, her goal to climb V14, and current training.Support the Podcast:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/megan-mascarenasNuggets:6:45 – Tuna sandwich and coffee9:19 – Whiskey (the dog, not the alcohol)10:35 – Sunday mornings11:07 – Rubiks Cubes15:20 – Megan’s cloud puzzle16:00 – The puzzle addiction, and becoming a climber at age 218:45 – Siblings and coaches22:33 – Retiring from competition and transitioning away from climbing26:04 – The two sides of freedom, and the path to medicine 29:26 – How Megan achieved a 4.7 GPA in high school, and getting an A- in Rock Climbing class 31:56 – Losing a chunk of herself when she stopped climbing, and getting back into climbing 33:26 – Hindsight is 20/2034:42 – Pole dancing39:46 – Applying pole strength to climbing40:52 – Megan’s current pole dancing “project”41:56 – Megan’s outdoor climbing goals in RMNP,  and current training45:08 – Pole dancing = barndoor training45:51 – Preparing for ‘Jade’, and outdoor vs. indoor climbing48:10 – Advice for new/young climbers 49:26 – Advice new/young climbers should ignore, and what Megan wishes she had done differently50:44 – Magic Wood and ‘New Baseline’52:43 – Question from Jimmy: Any tips for calming nerves during competition finals?54:25 – Competition rituals55:42 – Megan’s self talk when she is getting shut down by a climb56:41 – Question from Jeffrey: What made you so dominant as a young female competitor?57:51 – Megan’s drive to improve, and dealing with growing expectations 1:00:04 – Question from Jeffrey: How do you view climbing vs. training, and has that changed as you have gotten older?1:01:17 – Board climbing1:03:39 – Making up boulders and working on weaknesses1:05:19 – Megan’s favorite pun1:06:10 – Dinner party guest1:07:41 – Singing in the car1:08:18 – The Golden Axe1:09:04 – Happiest climbing day1:09:45 – The ups and downs 1:11:24 – What Megan would want a new best friend to know about her1:12:13 – The Incredibles, mind reading, and superhero colors1:13:25  – Molecules1:14:26 – Gratitude1:15:02 – Math1:16:02 – Zion1:17:09 – Enjoying the path

5 Huhti 20211h 21min

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Natasha Barnes. I asked for your questions for her on Instagram, and we tackled a wide range of topics including in-season training, shoulder mobility for climbers who lift weights, whether we should tape injured fingers, recommendations for aging climbers, why climbers shouldn’t be afraid of bulking, dealing with lower back pain, training “the position”, cactuses vs succulents, Moose the cat, printer issues, and maintaining the power mullet. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 2:06:41.

1 Huhti 202137min

In this Q&A, I tackle some of my patron’s most burning questions about how we getting stronger, takeaways from my experiments with nutrition and intermittent fasting, dealing with injuries, favorite training playlists and climbing books, life on the road, patterns I’ve noticed among high performers, dream guests, recommendations for first-time trainers, and much more.Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Learn more about Q&As:thenuggetclimbing.com/bonus-contentShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-1Nuggets:00:00 – Q&A introduction, Patreon tiers, and format06:53 – Nico’s Question: Tactics for mini-projects/quick ticks?12:47 – Tony’s Question: Least favorite climbing shoe?14:15 – Tony’s Question: If you could do an episode with one deceased person, who would it be?14:49 – Tony’s Question: Favorite climbing-related book?15:50 – Tony’s Question: Worst climbing bodily function story? 17:00 – Emma’s Question: How does training work, and what is happening in our body when we get stronger?27:16 – Emma’s Question: Recommendations for training with a knee injury?30:34 – Emma’s Question: Should I train my good leg while my other leg is injured?31:44 – Katie’s Question: What inspires you the most aside from climbing?33:34 – Adrian’s Question: Why did you stop intermittent fasting?35:39 – Ted’s Question: Will carbs help me get stronger faster coming from a keto diet? And what changes have you made to your diet that have made a difference?41:16 – Jasna’s Question: How do you mentally deal with injuries? How do you redirect your psych when dealing with a climbing injury?50:35 – Darren’s Question: When are you going to tell us about anorexic Steven? And was it worth it?51:32 – Jimmy’s Question: 3-week or 5-week training cycles: have you tried both? Which do you prefer?54:58 – Jimmy’s Question: Favorite training playlist?56:07 – Adriel’s Question: Advice on working through mental blocks, like fear of falling?  1:00:23 – Adriel’s Question: How much can you train a month sustainably?1:03:24 – Adriel’s Question: Tips for hard finger cracks? (5.11 and up)1:06:07 – Heather’s Question: Advice for someone who is interesting in training for the first time?1:12:57 – Heather’s Question: What have you learned about yourself living in the van? And is this lifestyle sustainable for you?1:17:01 – Heather’s Questions: What are some of your biggest climbing takeaways? Where would you be without climbing, and what has made you the climber you are today?1:22:01 – Casey’s Question: Do you train on the road? If so, how?1:23:19 – Casey’s Question: How are you structuring your Hueco trip? 1:26:47 – Casey’s Question: Why does everyone say your van smells good even if they are vegan? Is it because everyone needs beef? (just kidding… kind of)1:27:32 – Casey’s Question: Bouldering diet vs. sport climbing diet? 1:28:35 – Casey’s Question: Favorite other podcasts?1:31:00 – Casey’s Question: Thoughts on flexibility?1:32:21 – Casey’s Question: Thoughts on warming up?1:34:20 – Casey’s Question: If you could press a button and go anywhere, where would you go each day of the week?1:37:11 – Steve’s Question: What patterns have you seen emerge among the high performers you’ve interviewed?1:40:04 – Steve’s Question: Living on the road full time, do you ever get sick of it and just want to settle somewhere for a year?1:41:13 – Jeffrey’s Question: Top 3 dream guests to interview?1:43:45 – Jeffrey’s Question: What’s the most common weakness you see among top climbers?1:45:40 – Ilkka’s Question: What about the ethical side of eating meat?1:49:08 – Wrap up

29 Maalis 20211h 51min

Chelsea Murn is a climbing and business coach, and the founder of Lady Beta Coaching. We talked about making 100k in her first year of climbing coaching, recommendations for new entrepreneurs, getting uncomfortable, investing in ourselves, scarcity vs. abundance, rewiring our limiting beliefs, money mindset, and Hogwarts letters.Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chelsea-murnNuggets:5:04 – Chelsea’s morning routines, and scheduling similar things on specific days8:45 – Batching, and Do Not Disturb mode12:20 – Creating boundaries, and making time to enjoy  climbing13:33 – Having a coach 16:24 – Being empowered and validated by other women in her business school17:58 – Making $220k last year, and the story of climbing her first 5.13b at Deep Creek24:19 – Description of Deep Creek27:11 – Making $100k in her first year as a climbing coach, and getting started in business coaching32:59 – Example clients and businesses36:11 – How Chelsea thinks about investing in herself, scarcity vs. abundance mindset, and being uncomfortable39:40 – “I was uncomfortable every day of 2020”42:52 – Building a business and not a hustle47:33 – How much Chelsea works now50:12 – Working toward a 7-figure business, and the minimum effective dose52:05 – Coming up with bad ideas, fear of being seen, and having the courage to take the first step57:30 – Backpack full of rocks58:53 – My failed leaps before the podcast, fourth try is the charm, and playing the long game1:04:14 – Doing meaningful work, creating value for people, and getting paid enough to do it again and again1:07:22 – Patron Question from Kyle: Advice for someone getting started in the climbing industry, and moonlight vs. taking a big leap?1:10:21 – Money mindset1:18:03 – Looking for evidence for limiting beliefs, and scarcity mindset in relationships1:20:49 – Journaling, and writing down “opposite reasons”1:22:21 – Brain rewiring: what is it?1:24:47 – Chelsea’s experience with route setting, and rewiring her belief about her own worth and strength1:28:51 – Chelsea guides me through brain rewiring my money mindset1:32:34 – What brain wiring does, the mechanisms behind why it works, and my homework1:37:12 – Being open with goals, charging what you are worth, and redefining success1:42:09 – Patron Question from Curtis: What trends are you seeing in your clients who are having performance breakthroughs?1:44:02 – “Vanity metrics” vs. how you feel1:44:31 – Chelsea’s current brain rewiring practice, and what she is working on herself right now  1:47:18 – Why Chelsea doesn’t read business books, and my thoughts on how to navigate the information age1:51:14 – Chelsea’s favorite fantasy books1:53:16 – The Hogwarts Letter, and Chelsea’s Hogwarts house 1:55:25 – Grateful for sun and to be moving1:56:31 – Upcoming offerings from Chelsea1:58:11 – The LadyBeta Podcast2:00:32 – “If you know you were meant for something more, you were.”

22 Maalis 20212h 2min