EP 111: Jerry Moffatt — Being a “Crag Rat”, Developing Your Mental Game, and What the Top Climbers Have in Common

Stian Christophersen & Martin Mobråten are the coauthors of The Climbing Bible. We talked about their careers and proudest climbing achievements, their goal in writing their book, what holds back climbers at different levels, finger strength vs. general strength, mental strengths that separate climbers, strategies for improving technique, and the Play Box vs. the Think Box.The Climbing Bible:Buy on Amazon (best if you are in the US or Canada)Buy from AdventureBooks (best if you are in the UK or Europe)Check out Frictitious Climbing!frictitiousclimbing.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stian-and-martinNuggets:0:07:56 – Where we’re all tuning in from0:09:29 – Stian and Martin introduce each other0:17:14 – What Stain and Martin admire about one another0:22:43 – Stian’s proudest climbing accomplishments0:26:29 – Stian’s process of projecting his hardest route (FA of a new 9a)0:31:04 – A day in Martin’s life0:33:16 – The pros and cons of being a route setter, and trying to balance route setting with climbing0:38:24 – Martin’s proudest climbing accomplishments0:43:31 – Writing The Climbing Bible, and how the book got its name0:46:40 – Why The Climbing Bible was published as two different books, and how they interact with one another0:48:58 – Who the books are for0:52:06 – Question from Rannveig: When coaching, how do you balance the physical, technical, and mental sides of the sport?0:55:29 – The shortcomings of modern gyms, and the value of making up your own boulders1:02:09 – Stian’s thoughts on what holds climbers back from breaking into 5.11 or 5.121:04:28 – The importance of different physical characteristics for climbing performance, and finger strength vs. general strength1:12:22 – The 9c test, and the benefits and limitations of physical assessments1:20:00 – Mental strengths that separate climbers with the same physical and technical abilities, and tapping into aggression1:29:21 – How Stian and Martin have worked on improving their own technical abilities1:37:39 – Spray wall training vs. commercial gym sets, and separating strength sessions from technical slab sessions1:50:00 – Separating indoor and outdoor climbing1:51:23 – Another question from Rannveig: What are the biggest gimmicks in climbing and training right now, and what old-school methods are the most legit?1:56:51 – “Never respect grades.”2:01:03 – The Play Box vs. the Think Box, and the story of Stian’s FA of Eurofighter V13/14 (8B/+)2:11:06 – What to expect if you buy The Climbing Bible2:14:49 – We should be movement optimists2:16:47 – Where to buy the book, and wrap up

8 Elo 20222h 21min

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up is with Matt Fultz. We talked about his recent V16 sends, go-to training sessions on the spray wall, takeaways from his recent finger injury, how he incorporates hangboarding into his week, favorite hangboard protocols, why he does most of his finger training on 20mm edges, why he rarely trains on holds smaller than 10mm, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:04:24.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingMatt’s Originial Episode:EP 39: Matt Fultz

5 Elo 202224min

Dorian Evers is an individual and couples therapist in Boulder, CO. We talked about navigating different stoke levels in your relationship, how to create a safe space for your partner to be vulnerable, how to have difficult conversations, common insecurities and fears in relationships, tips for long-distance relationships, vanlife dating tips, and much more.Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dorian-eversNuggets:0:05:57 – Getting caught in thunderstorms0:09:51 – Dorian’s office and therapy practice0:11:04 – An example of Emotionally Focused Therapy0:15:19 – Bringing our baggage into our relationships0:18:32 – Talking about our relationships as climbers, and why this conversation feels important to Dorian0:21:22 – Parts of ourselves, the different parts of Dorian, and her identity0:25:09 – Do we have to give up our climbing identity to be in a healthy relationship?0:28:04 – Having a mismatched level of stoke with your partner, and getting vulnerable with your partner0:36:48 – How to make our partners feel secure in our relationships0:39:55 – Making meaning of what we don’t know0:41:07 – People pleasing vs. being radically honest0:45:15 – Becoming aware of our fears/worries, and checking in with our partners0:49:21 – Finding delight and empathy in your partner’s experience0:55:59 – Being curious about what lights up your partner0:59:48 – Communication, and creating a safe space for your partner to be vulnerable1:05:10 – Active listening skills1:07:13 – When to have difficult conversations with your partner1:10:38 – Navigating insecurity and jealously1:15:20 – Telling your partner that you’re thinking of them1:18:30 – Staying in the room1:20:26 – “We’re not mind readers.”1:21:22 – Patron question from Joy: How do you stay psyched as a climber when your partner doesn’t climb?1:24:01 – “Every relationship is going to have conflict, but it’s about the repair.”1:27:31 – How to stay connected to your partner when you’re on a trip1:31:36 – How to stay connected in a long-distance relationship1:36:42 – Question from Doreen, and lessons we learn from climbing1:40:53 – Balancing different individual passions in your relationship1:42:46 – Carving out intentional time for conversation1:45:07 – Living in a tiny house, and Dorian’s tips for living in a small space with your partner1:51:59 – My experience with Better Help, and how to find a therapist

1 Elo 20222h 4min

Callie Joy Black is a strength coach who specializes in training during pregnancy and postpartum. We talked about the most common concerns she hears from pregnant women, falling risk while pregnant, returning to climbing postpartum, strength training during pregnancy, climbing hard with kids, being selfish and creating boundaries, and being your own project.Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/callie-joy-blackNuggets:0:05:28 – Overview of this podcast episode, and her son’s pants-shitting story0:12:00 – Why Joy studied Spanish in college, getting pregnant, being a single mom, and studying nutrition0:15:19 – Being obsessed with movement, getting into climbing, and her path to becoming a strength coach0:19:09 – Why Joy chose to specialize in training during pregnancy and post-partum recovery0:24:26 – How male listeners can benefit from this conversation, and how the pelvic floor affects movement0:28:43 – Being scared of pregnancy, and two things Joy wishes someone had told her when she was pregnant for the first time0:32:39 – Fall risk with climbing when pregnant0:41:37 – Where Joy lives and where she usually climbs0:42:59 – Joy’s three pregnancies0:49:14 – Making the best decision for you and your pregnancy0:50:33 – When is it ok to climb after pregnancy?0:56:43 – Educating your doctor0:59:29 – How to support your climbing during pregnancy with strength training, and the role of the pelvic floor1:07:08 – Empowering women to lift heavier things1:18:00 – How Joy gets buy-in from women who are nervous to strength train1:26:04 – Changing from a performance mindset to an exploratory mindset1:27:52 – One of my favorite quotes from Steve Bechtel, and writing the forward to his book Mettle1:30:16 – Losing members of your climbing community when they have kids, and sharing climbing with your kids1:33:06 – Is it possible to climb just as hard after pregnancy and having kids?1:40:38 – Joy’s current climbing goal to climb 5.12, and working with Maddie from Lattice Training1:42:32 – Get a hangboard!1:42:59 – Being selfish and creating boundaries1:50:27 – A question from Mina about key lightbulb moments1:55:17 – Relaxin (hormone) and hangboarding during pregnancy2:02:34 – More resources for breath work and pelvic floor training2:11:27 – Breathing into your butthole2:12:54 – Joy’s tips for using Instagram as a business owner2:19:23 – Love and muscles2:20:51 – “The best project you will ever work on is you.”2:23:02 – My current life project2:27:44 – Joy’s current life project2:31:13 – Wrap up

25 Heinä 20222h 36min

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week we’ve got another Follow-Up with Steve Maisch! We talked about my summer training plan, how to get stronger on the Moonboard, combining board climbing with weight lifting and hangboarding, when to double down on strength vs. when to mix in endurance training, my plans to try a 5.14 this Fall, and much more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:03:36.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingSteve’s Other Episodes:EP 70: Steve MaischFollow-Up: Steve Maisch (the first one, published Sept 9, 2021)Follow-Up: Steve Maisch (the second one, published Jan 7, 2022)Follow-Up: Steve Maisch (the third one, published Apr 21, 2022)

21 Heinä 202238min

Jesse Firestone is an elite boulderer, a climbing coach, and a climbing philosopher. He’s also a good friend of mine from Oregon. We talked about quantum leaps in our progression as climbers, Jesse’s top 3 tips for climbers at different stages, non-physical factors that affect our performance, tips for flashing hard boulders, training changes after age 30, and much more.*If you liked my episodes with Emil Abrahamsson and Martin Keller, don’t skip this one!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Feals!feals.com/NUGGETUse this link to get 50% off your first order and free shipping!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jesse-firestoneNuggets:0:06:17 – Breakfast, considerations when building a home wall, and how to make climbing holds out of plywood0:12:24 – Skin conditioning, and dishwashing gloves0:15:19 – Applying too much stuff to our skin0:16:56 – Climbing volume, and trying to add more things to make our injuries better0:18:39 – Being obsessive0:21:15 – Jesse’s first rest day0:23:31 – Jesse’s early mentors in climbing, and taking opportunities when they come0:25:28 – Identifying as a boulderer early on, and wishing he had rested more0:27:53 – The Portland phase, and how to get pure raw strength in the climbing gym0:31:27 – Dropping out of college to hit the road for 7 months, and why Jesse’s climbing ability skyrocketed0:33:08 – The Bend phase0:35:41 – How Jesse got into coaching0:38:02 – Emotional regulation, mindset, and common mistakes0:41:01 – An introduction to Jesse’s Performance Pyramid0:43:30 – The tiers of the Performance Pyramid0:47:52 – Jesse’s consistency, and which elements of the pyramid climbers are most resistant to0:50:11 – Changing our circumstances, and thinking of our lifestyles as an investment0:52:25 – Quantum leaps0:54:07 – Spray walls, and the distractions of the climbing  gym0:56:24 – Jesse’s spray wall soapbox0:58:01 – Emotional regulation strategies (breathing and mantras)1:03:20 – Emotional regulation strategies (easy climbing with no agenda, and learning to climb alone)1:04:57 – Beta selection, and the language we speak on the wall1:07:39 – Pivoting of the torso1:11:09 – Tough Strips1:13:31 – MacGyvering solutions, and thinking outside the box1:17:30 – Beating your head against bad beta, and the importance of finishing climbs1:21:13 – “We’re all going to hit a point where we’re not climbing harder anymore.”1:25:53 – 3 tips for beginners1:32:54 – 3 tips for outdoor-focused climbers1:37:02 – Summary of 3 tips lists1:37:43 – Practicing technique on rock1:38:35 – Flashing boulders, flash ethics, and tips that helped Jesse flash his first V101:49:43 – Two hard highball first ascents that Jesse climbed in 2021 (see show notes for videos)2:00:58 – Why Jesse named one of his highballs Imposter Syndrome2:03:24 – Being proud of the two highball FAs, and Jesse’s thoughts on repeating established highballs2:04:36 – Exploring the feeling of being afraid, and exposure therapy2:05:44 – Patron question from Xander: Have you had to make changes to your training after turning 30?2:09:54 – Thinking in campaigns/seasons2:13:31 – Fear, uncertainty, and doubt (FUD)2:14:37 – Doing more training after 302:15:57 – Patron question from Joe: At what level of strength do we experience diminishing returns, and is it worth training the hinge if you can maintain that level without training it directly? (Ex. double bodyweight deadlift)2:18:25 – Patron question from Joe: What is one piece of advice Jesse wishes he had taken earlier? (mastery, and being a barbarian)2:20:44 – Patron question from Christopher: How do you handle it mentally if you start regressing on a project? (setting early goals for a session)2:22:33 – Going into projects with inertia, and knowing when to walk away2:25:03 – Why Jesse is moving to Leavenworth2:26:37 – Using a yoga block to train for narrow compression moves on a V122:29:47 – Jesse’s thoughts on what it would take for him to climb V142:35:47 – Why Jesse and I are thankful for one another, and finding a climbing partner who will cut through your bullshit

18 Heinä 20222h 44min

In this short bonus episode, my friend Michelle LeBlanc joins me on the podcast to talk about Project Pride! Project Pride is an upcoming outdoor bouldering event in Squamish, B.C, and is an opportunity for 2SLGBTQ+ individuals to connect and climb. Join us to learn more and check out the links below to reserve your spot!Preregister Here!https://www.eventbrite.ca/e/project-pride-tickets-352167872587Gripped Article:https://gripped.com/profiles/squamish-project-pride-opportunity-for-2slgbtq-individuals-to-connect-build-community-crush-boulders/Instagram Links:@project.pride.squamish@croissant.83

14 Heinä 202222min

This is my favorite episode of The American Climbing Project so far, and Devin Dabney graciously offered up the audio from his podcast so I could share it with all of you. Enjoy!Check out more episodes of ACP!americanclimbingproject.comAnd support Devin on Patreon!patreon.com/americanclimbingproject

11 Heinä 202229min