EP 117: Yves Gravelle — Lessons From Grip Sports, Basing Your Training on the Demands of Your Goal, and Top 3 Finger Training Methods

EP 117: Yves Gravelle — Lessons From Grip Sports, Basing Your Training on the Demands of Your Goal, and Top 3 Finger Training Methods

Yves Gravelle is a V15 boulderer from Canada and a 3x APL World Champion (i.e. grip competitions). We talked about lessons from grip training that we can apply to climbing, the importance of simplicity and consistency, how to break down a bouldering project, basing your training on the demands of a specific goal, top 3 finger training methods, how to train full crimps, and much more.

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  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/yves-gravelle

Nuggets:

0:07:18 – How to pronounce Yves’ name, and living in Ottawa

0:09:20 – The most legendary training montage I have ever seen, and an introduction to APL

0:12:32 – Why Yves thinks climbs could represent themselves well in grip sports, and what a competition is like

0:15:22 – Specializing vs. being a well-rounded athlete in grip

0:18:11 – Balancing climbing goals with grip competitions

0:19:28 – What Yves has learned from grip sports, and taking training ideas from powerlifting

0:22:26 – How Yves bases his training around the demands of a specific boulder or goal

0:24:49 – Is it possible to combine outdoor climbing with quality finger strength training?

0:31:07 – An example training week with outdoor bouldering on Sunday

0:35:05 – Preparing your body for the amount of training you want to do, and progressively working your way up

0:36:19 – Building capacity, and learning about nutrition

0:37:55 – Reading nutritional research about bouldering

0:39:33 – How Yves has changed his diet

0:42:28 – Maintaining finger strength during off-seasons, and pushing hard for goals

0:45:51 – Finger training principles, keeping things simple, consistency, writing things down, and using RPE to measure your training

0:51:38 – Training strength when you are fresh, finishing fresh, and not going to failure (adding a buffer)

0:54:14 – Yves’ session load calculator spreadsheet

0:57:36 – Preparation cycles, and competitive cycles

1:00:45 – Jazz

1:02:13 – How Yves trained for ‘So What’ V15, and building shoulder strength and mobility

1:05:15 – Patron question from fdclimbs: Any tips for building climbing-specific shoulder strength?

1:07:34 – Yves top 3 finger training exercises for climbing

1:12:01 – Progressive warmup for finger training

1:13:58 – Micro edge training

1:15:39 – Contact strength training

1:19:20 – Summary of Yves’ top 3 finger training methods

1:21:08 – Patron question from Alan: Does Yves have a favorite way to train full crimps?

1:22:39 – Yves’ full crimp story, and how he prevents finger injuries

1:26:14 – Patron question from fdclimbs: Tips for training individual fingers? (And Yves’ grip positions and anatomy)

1:29:53 – Patron question from Alan: How does Yves balance different methods of training fingers and grip strength?

1:33:19 – Prepping for ‘Terremere’ and Hueco

1:34:17 – Patron question from Daniel: Any plans to travel to world-famous bouldering areas and try the classic V15s or V16s?

1:35:38 – 1-7-11 on the campus board (with slightly different spacing)

1:37:00 – Patron question from Daniel: Is there such thing as “enough power”? What about finger strength?

1:38:18 – Patron question from Xander: Do your finger strength gains still transfer to climbing?

1:39:28 – One of Yves’ favorite coaches to learn from

1:40:59 – When you are starting off almost anything will work

1:41:44 – Patron question from Michael: What is the smallest edge you can hang with one hand? What about two hands?

1:42:54 – Being muscular and still being strong on tiny holds, and putting on muscle mass in the right places

1:44:30 – Patron question from David: How does Yves look after his skin, especially splits and tears?

1:46:48 – Contributing to local bouldering areas, and winning the world championships

1:47:41 – Yves’ daughters and gymnastics

1:50:26 – Listen to your body, and enjoy the process

1:53:10 – Be present

1:54:39 – Wrap up

Jaksot(379)

EP 277: Michelle LeBlanc — Project Pride 2025, the Political Pendulum Swing, and Meeting in the Middle

EP 277: Michelle LeBlanc — Project Pride 2025, the Political Pendulum Swing, and Meeting in the Middle

Michelle LeBlanc returns to the podcast to talk about her annual Project Pride event in Squamish, B.C. (August 29-30, 2025). She shared her personal story and why she started Project Pride, and we talked about cultural and political pendulum swings, sensationalism in the media, and what to expect if you attend her upcoming event.You can buy tickets here: https://www.eventbrite.ca/e/project-pride-squamish-2025-tickets-1415859827859?fbclid=PAZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAad_JFGfbgS_SEWNkjXVlG2Me2S_7YVmPskjfFcyihN-BBdKJmCPsrNv0NDu1w_aem_uC2R3rhGN0dtaZ3DICGmSwShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/michelle-leblanc-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:38) – Not queer enough(00:08:08) – Project Pride(00:23:12) – Instagram comments(00:34:00) – Meeting in the middle(00:38:47) – The pendulum swing(00:53:38) – Labels(00:57:18) – Sensationalism(01:02:01) – Upcoming event(01:11:45) – Stay sane

10 Heinä 1h 15min

EP 276: Alex Bridgewater — Sports Psychology Tools to Elevate Your Climbing Performance

EP 276: Alex Bridgewater — Sports Psychology Tools to Elevate Your Climbing Performance

Alex Bridgewater (M.S. in Sports Psychology) returns to the podcast to discuss tools that can help elevate your climbing performance. We talked about finding your values, the dark side of expectations, a framework for working toward goals, how to develop confidence, building awareness, whether climbing is separate from life, the cost of masochism, acceptance, unhooking, mindfulness practice, and much more. You can work with Alex at innersourceperformancepsychology.comMad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping.YouTube Videos:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out my latest training tip videos and be sure to subscribe!The NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-bridgewater-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:38) – Graduate school(00:10:21) – Psychology for climbers(00:18:54) – Finding your values(00:28:52) – Expectations(00:38:27) – WOOP (Wish, Outcome, Obstacle, Plan)(01:07:07) – Manifesting flexibility(01:16:24) – Confidence(01:20:37) – Building awareness(01:32:43) – Is climbing separate from life?(01:43:32) – What is the cost?(01:54:37) – We’re not professional athletes(02:00:36) – Many different selves(02:08:32) – Acceptance(02:14:57) – Unhooking(02:18:38) – Mindfulness practice(02:35:53) – Alex’s practices(02:43:06) – Alex’s coaching offerings

7 Heinä 2h 47min

Something Different | Jake Muise (CEO & Founder of Maui Nui Venison) — Sustainable Food for Peak Performance

Something Different | Jake Muise (CEO & Founder of Maui Nui Venison) — Sustainable Food for Peak Performance

What if you could eat the healthiest meat on the planet while helping the environment? Jake Muise is the CEO and founder of Maui Nui Venison, and joins me to talk about sustainable food and the future of nutrient density. We talked about the overpopulation of Axis deer in Hawaii, the cyclical die-off they experience without predation, solving complex problems, the secret to sustaining high-level output, harvesting at night, nutrition of place, sharing with community, and much more.Maui Nui Venison (The Healthiest Red Meat on the Planet)mauinuivenison.com/stevenChilipad (Don’t Lose Sleep this Summer)Get 20% off any Chilipad sleep systemNADS (Organic Cotton Underwear)Use code STEVEN for 15% offSupport Something Different on Patreonpatreon.com/somethingdiffpodTimestamps:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:04) – Axis deer(00:05:18) – A food resource(00:07:53) – Volleyball & performance(00:12:04) – Jake’s intro to hunting(00:13:34) – Drought & die-off(00:17:00) – Tracking animals & finding balance(00:31:02) – Paying cattle ranchers(00:37:45) – Harvesting at night(00:47:55) – Nutrition of place(00:55:02) – The future of nutrient density(00:57:17) – Sustaining high-level output(01:02:10) – Sharing with community(01:07:55) – Hope for the future(01:12:26) – Wrap up

1 Heinä 1h 15min

EP 275: Yuji Hirayama — Japanese Focus, Improving Every Day, and the Secret to Staying Young

EP 275: Yuji Hirayama — Japanese Focus, Improving Every Day, and the Secret to Staying Young

Yuji Hirayama is a Japanese professional climber and a living legend. We talked about visualizing his onsight attempt on The Salathe, channeling support into power, Daniel Woods, Mount Kinabalu, Japanese vs. Western culture, quitting school to climb, owning climbing gyms, how to stay 9a fit in your 50s, the secret to staying young, and much more.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping.Chilipad:checkout.sleep.meUse this link for 20% off any of Chilipad's sleep cooling systems.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.YouTube Videos:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out my latest training tip videos and be sure to subscribe!Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/yuji-hirayamaNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:10) – The Professionals film(00:12:30) – Attempting to onsight the Salathe(00:22:04) – Channeling support into power(00:30:26) – Challenge, change, & Daniel Woods(00:36:53) – Mount Kinabalu(00:50:23) – How Yuji has changed(00:57:15) – Why Yuji climbs(01:03:40) – Japanese vs. Western culture(01:09:35) – Yuji’s parents(01:11:58) – Early climbing(01:14:22) – Running(01:19:05) – Quitting school to climb(01:24:20) – Who inspires Yuji(01:28:02) – How climbing has changed(01:31:16) – Owning gyms(01:40:33) – Karaoke(01:41:18) – Wine, Dine, & Climb(01:43:07) – Staying 9a fit in your 50s(01:47:03) – Japanese focus on hard climbing(01:48:54) – The next trip(01:51:33) – The secret to staying young(01:55:32) – Wrap up

23 Kesä 1h 57min

Something Different | Eric Edmeades — Unlocking Resilience Through Ancestral Living

Something Different | Eric Edmeades — Unlocking Resilience Through Ancestral Living

Eric Edmeades is often referred to as the “Indiana Jones” of the professional speaking world. He has been traveling to Africa to visit the Hadza, one of the last remaining hunter-gatherer groups, since 2007. We talked about rites of passage, how ancestral living solved his health issues, lessons from his time with the Hadza, how to overcome evolutionary mismatch in Western society, founding WILDFIT, and much more. You can learn more about Eric at eric.eeMaui Nui Venison (The Healthiest Red Meat on the Planet)mauinuivenison.com/stevenChilipad (Don’t Lose Sleep this Summer)Get 20% off any Chilipad sleep systemHeadspace (Meditation App)Try it for Free for 14 DaysSupport Something Different on Patreonpatreon.com/somethingdiffpodTimestamps:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:40) – Homeless as a teenager(00:07:06) – Rites of passage(00:16:31) – Building resiliance(00:20:48) – Health journey(00:27:32) – The US medical system(00:30:54) – Changing his diet(00:34:54) – The Hadza (Hadzabe Tribe)(00:39:19) – Evolutionary mismatch(00:44:53) – What the Hadza eat(00:53:06) – Healthy kids(00:59:02) – Food psychology(01:02:05) – Should we eat like the Hadza?(01:11:53) – Frightened primates(01:19:11) – 3 seasons of eating(01:31:20) – Winter for the Hadza(01:33:10) – Vegetables & tubers(01:37:58) – The evolution gap(01:41:26) – Movement & the lymphatic system(01:46:23) – Executive function(01:51:28) – What life’s about(01:57:13) – Contentment(02:04:36) – Rest & leasure(02:07:07) – Unconditional love(02:10:02) – WILDFIT(02:17:00) – How to connect with Eric(02:19:09) – Be the captain

16 Kesä 2h 23min

EP 274: Seneida Biendarra — Onsighting Without Sight, Designing Better Gear, and Wielding the Empathy Gun

EP 274: Seneida Biendarra — Onsighting Without Sight, Designing Better Gear, and Wielding the Empathy Gun

Seneida Biendarra is the 2023 US National Champion in the women’s B2 (severely blind) category. We talked about losing her vision as a teenager, her current visual experience, creating mental maps of the world, finding freedom in risk, designing outdoor gear, the world of paraclimbing and the adaptive community, sight guiding, the empathy gun, embracing chapters in life, and much more.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/seneida-biendarraNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:00) – 1950s appliances(00:05:08) – A fresh start(00:07:49) – Seneida’s visual experience(00:10:00) – Losing vision(00:17:02) – The map(00:19:38) – Visual experience continued(00:23:35) – An invisible disability(00:25:56) – Daily living vs. climbing(00:29:44) – Meeting other blind climbers(00:36:08) – Crashes(00:39:34) – Risk & freedom(00:44:48) – Early climbing(00:48:32) – An onsight philosophy(00:52:19) – Visualization(00:55:09) – Lights out(01:01:49) – Accessibility tools & basketball(01:05:59) – Designing gear(01:13:06) – Parents & childhood(01:17:08) – Backpacking(01:19:21) – Daily living continued(01:28:55) – Nate(01:31:10) – Sight Guiding(01:37:40) – The world of paraclimbing(01:41:28) – 2028 Olympics(01:46:09) – Identity & community(01:49:51) – Mourning, normalizing, & sympathy(01:53:31) – How to be a supportive sighted person(01:56:25) – Empathy gun(02:01:09) – Parts of ourselves(02:04:45) – Interpersonal bonds(02:12:39) – Embracing chapters(02:18:53) – Self-driving taxis(02:21:55) – Spotlighting the adaptive community(02:26:12) – “You belong more than you think you do.”(02:29:45) – New designs

9 Kesä 2h 31min

EP 273: Brendan Baars — Developing ‘The Nooks’, How His Big Toe Saved His Life, & Choosing Adventure Over Grades

EP 273: Brendan Baars — Developing ‘The Nooks’, How His Big Toe Saved His Life, & Choosing Adventure Over Grades

Brendan Baars is a boulderer from Grand Rapids, MI, who has spent the past seven years developing a new bouldering area called The Nooks in Ontario, Canada. We talked about what a day of developing looks like, his go-to gear, how his big toe saved his life, the untapped potential in Canada, the reward of establishing and sharing new climbs, undone projects, the logistics of visiting The Nooks, his upcoming film The Developer, and much more.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.The GRINDS Program:thenuggetclimbing.comEnter your email to get a free PDF and log sheetBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brendan-baarsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:10) – Capentry(00:05:52) – Steven’s cabin(00:07:06) – Intro to climbing(00:10:03) – Weekend warrior(00:17:14) – Discovering The Nooks(00:20:51) – Goldmine(00:23:12) – “This is sick”(00:28:50) – Years of potential(00:34:47) – Summer & bugs(00:38:22) – Weather(00:40:01) – A new avenue & a sacrifice(00:50:02) – Sharing The Nooks(00:55:10) – A day of developing(00:57:01) – Custom backpack(01:01:51) – Big Toe(01:09:07) – Rope systems & ladders(01:12:30) – The Developer film(01:18:25) – Rock type & style(01:20:47) – Elliot Lake(01:33:39) – Logistics & amenities(01:36:42) – Guidebook & KAYA(01:39:06) – The Croc Block(01:41:54) – Top Nooks Boulders(01:47:56) – Hard projects(01:51:31) – More Nooks info(01:54:38) – The Canadian frontier(01:57:43) – Wrap up + EXTRA teaser

27 Touko 2h 3min

EP 272: To Send Hard Boulders Outside… Go Try Them A Lot — Steven Bergey (Patron Spotlight)

EP 272: To Send Hard Boulders Outside… Go Try Them A Lot — Steven Bergey (Patron Spotlight)

Steven Bergey started climbing at 31 and climbed his first V11 outside within four years. We talked about his projecting approach, the “outdoor gear”, suspending your disbelief until the magic happens, his diet and sleep routines, tips for climbing at night, the pivotal moments that change our lives forever, and more.The GRINDS Program 👉 thenuggetclimbing.comThe NUG 👉 frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugBecome a Patron for a chance to be featured in the next Patron Spotlight! 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steven-bergeyNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:24) – When to call it on a project(00:08:40) – Summer mode(00:10:27) – The Martin Keller approach(00:14:34) – Steven’s approach(00:17:53) – The outdoor gear(00:24:10) – Anthem(00:29:26) – Adapting to fingery climbing(00:33:26) – Diet(00:37:16) – Thoughts on keto & carnivore(00:42:38) – Still improving(00:43:59) – TB2(00:49:35) – More about diet(00:58:12) – Sleep(01:02:20) – Snacking & when he climbs(01:03:36) – Work & night climbing(01:09:08) – Light tips(01:11:49) – Tea & coffee(01:15:59) – Put in the time(01:18:56) – Suspend your disbelief(01:21:16) – Pivotal moments(01:28:59) – Wrap up

22 Touko 1h 33min

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