EP 123: Magnus Midtbø — The Hard Work Behind Success, Go-To Climbing Workouts, and Takeaways from Training with Adam Ondra

EP 123: Magnus Midtbø — The Hard Work Behind Success, Go-To Climbing Workouts, and Takeaways from Training with Adam Ondra

Magnus Midtbø is a professional climber turned YouTuber from Norway. He has climbed 5.15b (9b), and his YouTube channel recently hit 1M subscribers. We talked about burning out on competitions and starting his YouTube career, the hard work behind success, favorite collaborations, go-to climbing workouts, and takeaways from training with Adam Ondra.

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  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/magnus-midtbo

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:06:39) – Burning out on competitions, and starting his career as a YouTuber

(00:10:45) – Who is Magnus’s audience?

(00:13:10) – Editing and perfectionism

(00:15:59) – The hard work behind success

(00:18:05) – Pacing and music, and making the films personal

(00:21:09) – Being an interovert as a YouTuber

(00:23:35) – Why YouTube Channels die out

(00:26:16) – Making other types of videos outside of climbing, and not being afraid of trying new things

(00:28:05) – Parallels between YouTube and climbing, and logging routes on 8a.nu

(00:29:32) – Being known for his strength, and suffering during collaborations

(00:30:19) – Free soloing with Alex Honnold

(00:32:45) – Patron question from Cody: Which collaborations were the most fun?

(00:35:59) – Jujimufu

(00:37:54) – What Magnus learned from collaborating with Juji and Tom

(00:39:37) – Getting criticism from climbers, and letting go of worrying about what other people think

(00:40:49) – Anton the Russian Ninja Warrior

(00:42:09) – What Magnus has learned from spending time with Adam Ondra, and surrounding yourself with people who make you feel lazy

(00:44:19) – Finding balance vs. focusing on one thing

(00:50:58) – A week in Magnus’s life, and why he doesn’t film many outdoor videos

(00:56:37) – Common themes between top climbers, and how many of us overcomplicate our training

(00:58:23) – What climbing means to Magnus now, and wanting to climb a V15 (8C) boulder

(01:00:04) – Quitting coffee

(01:02:05) – Magnus’s go-to strength maintenance session

(01:04:12) – Why Magnus primarily climbs on commercial gym boulders

(01:05:47) – What Magnus would do if he wanted to climb his hardest again

(01:08:45) – Feeling healthier and happier at his current bodyweight

(01:11:04) – How much harder Magnus climbs without a shirt

(01:11:49) – Training on rock

(01:13:45) – Patron Question from Andrew: Biggest takeaways from training with Adam Ondra?

(01:16:39) – Watching tutorials on cameras and editing

(01:18:33) – How collaborations come about

(01:20:24) – Dream collaborations

(01:21:34) – What’s next for Magnus’s channel

(01:25:14) – Why Magnus doesn’t outsource his editing

(01:27:26) – How it works to get paid as a YouTuber, and investing in climbing gyms

(01:29:24) – What Magnus wishes he would have known earlier about YouTube, and wishing he hadn’t had respect for climbing grades

(01:33:17) – How top climbers almost have two personalities, and balancing humility with confidence

(01:35:18) – Learning to make fewer excuses, and other gifts from YouTube

(01:37:22) – Traveling, hiking, and exploring

(01:38:48) – What’s next

(01:39:30) – Where to find Magnus on the internet

Jaksot(387)

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard

Peter Mortimer is an award-winning filmmaker (King Lines, Valley Uprising, The Dawn Wall, The Alpinist) and co-creator of the Reel Rock Film Tour. We talked about his latest project, The Dark Wizard, ...

14 Huhti 54min

EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency

EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency

Dave Thompson is a 5.14 and V14 first ascentionist, alpinist, and coach for Evoke Endurance. We talked about his early climbing in the North Cascade mountains of Washington State, doing the first asce...

7 Huhti 1h 46min

EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics

EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics

Sam Watson is the current world record holder in speed climbing (4.64 seconds) and an Olympic Bronze medalist. We talked about breaking the world record in Paris, how he makes a living, building a soc...

23 Maalis 1h 55min

EP 294: Melissa Strong — Dying and Coming Back to Life, Having Her Arms Sewn Together, and Returning to Climbing with 7 ¾ Fingers

EP 294: Melissa Strong — Dying and Coming Back to Life, Having Her Arms Sewn Together, and Returning to Climbing with 7 ¾ Fingers

Melissa Strong is a boulderer and restaurateur based in Estes Park, CO, who nearly lost her life in an electrocution accident in April 2017. We talked about her accident, what she experienced on the o...

9 Maalis 1h 30min

EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

Joel Unema is a high-performance rock climber and coach for Climb Strong, and has climbed V14 and 5.14b. We talked about how Tyler Nelson helped him unlock V14 finger strength, how Steve Bechtel helpe...

23 Helmi 2h 4min

EP 292: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Repost from Patreon)

EP 292: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Repost from Patreon)

Today, I am resharing one of the most valuable episodes I have ever recorded. This episode with Tom Randall was originally aired on Patreon in Feb, 2022. We talked about how to use your friends to dis...

9 Helmi 1h 48min

EP 291: Charlie Boscoe — Pro Climbing League: Comps Are About to Change Forever

EP 291: Charlie Boscoe — Pro Climbing League: Comps Are About to Change Forever

Charlie Boscoe is a former IFSC commentator, writer, and co-founder of the Pro Climbing League, a bold new head-to-head bouldering series debuting on February 28. We talked about his first experience ...

26 Tammi 1h 18min

EP 290: Chris Schulte — Developing Your Own Style, Age-Proof Motivation, and Redefining Progress Beyond Grades

EP 290: Chris Schulte — Developing Your Own Style, Age-Proof Motivation, and Redefining Progress Beyond Grades

Chris Schulte is an elite boulderer known for bold first ascents, compression mastery, and a thoughtful approach that prioritizes style over grades. We talked about his evolution as a climber, develop...

12 Tammi 2h 25min

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