EP 128: Callie Joy Black — Training During Pregnancy, Climbing Hard with Kids, and Being Your Own Project

EP 128: Callie Joy Black — Training During Pregnancy, Climbing Hard with Kids, and Being Your Own Project

Callie Joy Black is a strength coach who specializes in training during pregnancy and postpartum. We talked about the most common concerns she hears from pregnant women, falling risk while pregnant, returning to climbing postpartum, strength training during pregnancy, climbing hard with kids, being selfish and creating boundaries, and being your own project.

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And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/callie-joy-black

Nuggets:

0:05:28 – Overview of this podcast episode, and her son’s pants-shitting story

0:12:00 – Why Joy studied Spanish in college, getting pregnant, being a single mom, and studying nutrition

0:15:19 – Being obsessed with movement, getting into climbing, and her path to becoming a strength coach

0:19:09 – Why Joy chose to specialize in training during pregnancy and post-partum recovery

0:24:26 – How male listeners can benefit from this conversation, and how the pelvic floor affects movement

0:28:43 – Being scared of pregnancy, and two things Joy wishes someone had told her when she was pregnant for the first time

0:32:39 – Fall risk with climbing when pregnant

0:41:37 – Where Joy lives and where she usually climbs

0:42:59 – Joy’s three pregnancies

0:49:14 – Making the best decision for you and your pregnancy

0:50:33 – When is it ok to climb after pregnancy?

0:56:43 – Educating your doctor

0:59:29 – How to support your climbing during pregnancy with strength training, and the role of the pelvic floor

1:07:08 – Empowering women to lift heavier things

1:18:00 – How Joy gets buy-in from women who are nervous to strength train

1:26:04 – Changing from a performance mindset to an exploratory mindset

1:27:52 – One of my favorite quotes from Steve Bechtel, and writing the forward to his book Mettle

1:30:16 – Losing members of your climbing community when they have kids, and sharing climbing with your kids

1:33:06 – Is it possible to climb just as hard after pregnancy and having kids?

1:40:38 – Joy’s current climbing goal to climb 5.12, and working with Maddie from Lattice Training

1:42:32 – Get a hangboard!

1:42:59 – Being selfish and creating boundaries

1:50:27 – A question from Mina about key lightbulb moments

1:55:17 – Relaxin (hormone) and hangboarding during pregnancy

2:02:34 – More resources for breath work and pelvic floor training

2:11:27 – Breathing into your butthole

2:12:54 – Joy’s tips for using Instagram as a business owner

2:19:23 – Love and muscles

2:20:51 – “The best project you will ever work on is you.”

2:23:02 – My current life project

2:27:44 – Joy’s current life project

2:31:13 – Wrap up

Jaksot(382)

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

Tess Driessens is a professional climbing coach and lives with chronic pain. We talked about getting diagnosed with five herniated discs from a cliff jumping accident, tools for chronic pain, why hope...

15 Huhti 20252h 39min

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

Dr. Keith Baar is a leading expert in tendon and ligament engineering and repair. Natalie Gilmore is a PhD student focused on climbing-specific research. We talked about the results of their recent re...

7 Huhti 20251h 23min

EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)

EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)

Connor Bodin climbed 30 minutes per day for 100 consecutive days to boost his endurance, and it worked. His critical force went from 30% of bodyweight to an impressive 44% of bodyweight, and his climb...

1 Huhti 202529min

EP 265: Katie Lambert Returns — How to Eat on a Climbing Day, Ingredients to Avoid, Nutrition on a Budget, Farm-to-School, & More

EP 265: Katie Lambert Returns — How to Eat on a Climbing Day, Ingredients to Avoid, Nutrition on a Budget, Farm-to-School, & More

Katie Lambert is an accomplished all-around climber with a master's in nutrition. We talked about how to get more value out of climbing trips, her training and cold plunge routine, perimenopause, her ...

24 Maalis 20252h 18min

​​EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama

​​EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama

Tony Yaniro is a climbing legend and the first-ever person to redpoint a 5.13b with his ascent of The Grand Illusion in 1979. We talked about his early years, handmaking cams in his garage, developing...

17 Maalis 20251h 55min

EP 263: Adam Ondra — A Conversation With the Best Climber in the World

EP 263: Adam Ondra — A Conversation With the Best Climber in the World

Adam Ondra is the greatest climber of all time. We talked about his trip to Smith Rock in 2018, onsighting Just Do It, what he was like as a kid, his 9c projects, Soudain Seul 9A, the Imhotep project,...

10 Maalis 20251h 51min

EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America

EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America

Max Didier is a Chilean big wall climber and alpinist turned boulderer. We talked about leaving the Air Force to climb, the value of exploration and adventure, his trip to India, maintaining simplicit...

3 Maalis 20252h 40min

EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path

EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path

Chris Sharma and Ron Kauk return to the podcast for a philosophical chat. We discussed early bouldering in Camp 4, the essence of climbing, the source of motivation, reinventing your climbing identity...

24 Helmi 20252h

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