EP 132: Rebecca Williams — A Deep Dive Into Fear of Falling, the Self-Soothing System, and Climbing Smarter

EP 132: Rebecca Williams — A Deep Dive Into Fear of Falling, the Self-Soothing System, and Climbing Smarter

Dr. Rebecca Williams is a clinical psychologist, performance coach, and the author of Climb Smarter. We talked about the deeper fears that often underlie fear of falling, the underdeveloped self-soothing system, breathing exercises to reduce anxiety, pre-climb routines, meditation and mindfulness, and the benefits of shifting our focus from achievement to mastery.

Climb Smarter:

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Buy from Sequoia Books (best if you are in the UK or Europe)

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/rebecca-williams

Nuggets:

0:07:32 – Kids

0:09:29 – Rebecca’s background in clinical psychology

0:13:04 – Why Rebecca quit gymnastics as a teenager

0:17:55 – How the mental blocks from gymnastics came back to haunt her as a climber

0:20:17 – The deeper fears at the roots of fear of falling, and trust and control

0:24:30 – Why it’s important to know where your fear of falling comes from, and the woman with the worm phobia

0:28:32 – Diving deeper into different fears

0:30:54 – Fear of fear, and learning to tolerate difficult feelings

0:33:14 – Learning to tolerate difficult emotions

0:37:09 – My (Steven’s) own experience with fear of falling when I started sport climbing, and tools for letting go of control

0:44:16 – The overdeveloped drive and threat systems, and the underdeveloped self-soothing system

0:46:32 – “We’re always conquering”, common narratives, and why fear of falling is rational

0:53:16 – Rebecca’s mental warmup, and bringing arousal levels down

0:58:30 – Not wanting to stray from “normal”

1:03:04 – Introducing doubts to our assumptions

1:08:38 – Breathing exercises to bring down arousal and anxiety

1:14:31 – Pre-climb routines, focusing before a send attempt, and mindfulness as an attitude

1:19:16 – Meditation and why it’s useful

1:24:31 – What practicing mindfulness has done for me (Steven) and how it has impacted my life

1:28:14 – “Falling practice is the last thing you do, and not the first thing you do.”

1:30:01 – Does practicing non-attachment take away our drive? And shifting our focus from achievement to mastery

1:33:00 – Why Rebecca decided to write her book Smart Climbing

1:37:05 – The nutrition chapter of the book, and the link between perfectionism and eating disorders

1:43:45 – What Rebecca is currently working on in her own climbing (related to mental game)

1:48:07 – Who the book is for, and where to buy it

1:49:25 – What’s next for Rebecca

1:50:34 – Rediscovering your early excitement for climbing

Jaksot(382)

EP 131: Ryan Devlin — Life as a TV Actor, Progressing From 11b to 12c in a Year, and How Pro Climbers Relate to Struggle

EP 131: Ryan Devlin — Life as a TV Actor, Progressing From 11b to 12c in a Year, and How Pro Climbers Relate to Struggle

Ryan Devlin is a television actor, entrepreneur, philanthropist, rock climber, and host of his new podcast The Struggle Climbing Show. We talked about parallels between climbing and being a TV actor, ...

15 Elo 20222h 49min

EP 130: Stian Christophersen & Martin Mobråten — Writing The Climbing Bible, Finger Strength vs. General Strength, and Strategies for Improving Technique

EP 130: Stian Christophersen & Martin Mobråten — Writing The Climbing Bible, Finger Strength vs. General Strength, and Strategies for Improving Technique

Stian Christophersen & Martin Mobråten are the coauthors of The Climbing Bible. We talked about their careers and proudest climbing achievements, their goal in writing their book, what holds back clim...

8 Elo 20222h 21min

Follow-Up: Matt Fultz — How to Train for the Hardest Crimp Boulders in the World (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Matt Fultz — How to Train for the Hardest Crimp Boulders in the World (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up is with Matt Fultz. We talked about his recent V16 sends, go-to training sessions on the spray wall, takeaways fro...

5 Elo 202224min

EP 129: Dorian Evers — How to Navigate Different Stoke Levels in Your Relationship, and Getting Vulnerable with Your Partner

EP 129: Dorian Evers — How to Navigate Different Stoke Levels in Your Relationship, and Getting Vulnerable with Your Partner

Dorian Evers is an individual and couples therapist in Boulder, CO. We talked about navigating different stoke levels in your relationship, how to create a safe space for your partner to be vulnerable...

1 Elo 20222h 4min

EP 128: Callie Joy Black — Training During Pregnancy, Climbing Hard with Kids, and Being Your Own Project

EP 128: Callie Joy Black — Training During Pregnancy, Climbing Hard with Kids, and Being Your Own Project

Callie Joy Black is a strength coach who specializes in training during pregnancy and postpartum. We talked about the most common concerns she hears from pregnant women, falling risk while pregnant, r...

25 Heinä 20222h 36min

Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Summer Training Plan, and How to Get Stronger on the Moonboard (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Summer Training Plan, and How to Get Stronger on the Moonboard (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week we’ve got another Follow-Up with Steve Maisch! We talked about my summer training plan, how to get stronger on the Moonboard, combining ...

21 Heinä 202238min

EP 127: Jesse Firestone — Bouldering Tactics, Quantum Leaps, and Non-Physical Factors That Affect Our Performance

EP 127: Jesse Firestone — Bouldering Tactics, Quantum Leaps, and Non-Physical Factors That Affect Our Performance

Jesse Firestone is an elite boulderer, a climbing coach, and a climbing philosopher. He’s also a good friend of mine from Oregon. We talked about quantum leaps in our progression as climbers, Jesse’s ...

18 Heinä 20222h 44min

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