EP 132: Rebecca Williams — A Deep Dive Into Fear of Falling, the Self-Soothing System, and Climbing Smarter

EP 132: Rebecca Williams — A Deep Dive Into Fear of Falling, the Self-Soothing System, and Climbing Smarter

Dr. Rebecca Williams is a clinical psychologist, performance coach, and the author of Climb Smarter. We talked about the deeper fears that often underlie fear of falling, the underdeveloped self-soothing system, breathing exercises to reduce anxiety, pre-climb routines, meditation and mindfulness, and the benefits of shifting our focus from achievement to mastery.

Climb Smarter:

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Buy from Sequoia Books (best if you are in the UK or Europe)

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/rebecca-williams

Nuggets:

0:07:32 – Kids

0:09:29 – Rebecca’s background in clinical psychology

0:13:04 – Why Rebecca quit gymnastics as a teenager

0:17:55 – How the mental blocks from gymnastics came back to haunt her as a climber

0:20:17 – The deeper fears at the roots of fear of falling, and trust and control

0:24:30 – Why it’s important to know where your fear of falling comes from, and the woman with the worm phobia

0:28:32 – Diving deeper into different fears

0:30:54 – Fear of fear, and learning to tolerate difficult feelings

0:33:14 – Learning to tolerate difficult emotions

0:37:09 – My (Steven’s) own experience with fear of falling when I started sport climbing, and tools for letting go of control

0:44:16 – The overdeveloped drive and threat systems, and the underdeveloped self-soothing system

0:46:32 – “We’re always conquering”, common narratives, and why fear of falling is rational

0:53:16 – Rebecca’s mental warmup, and bringing arousal levels down

0:58:30 – Not wanting to stray from “normal”

1:03:04 – Introducing doubts to our assumptions

1:08:38 – Breathing exercises to bring down arousal and anxiety

1:14:31 – Pre-climb routines, focusing before a send attempt, and mindfulness as an attitude

1:19:16 – Meditation and why it’s useful

1:24:31 – What practicing mindfulness has done for me (Steven) and how it has impacted my life

1:28:14 – “Falling practice is the last thing you do, and not the first thing you do.”

1:30:01 – Does practicing non-attachment take away our drive? And shifting our focus from achievement to mastery

1:33:00 – Why Rebecca decided to write her book Smart Climbing

1:37:05 – The nutrition chapter of the book, and the link between perfectionism and eating disorders

1:43:45 – What Rebecca is currently working on in her own climbing (related to mental game)

1:48:07 – Who the book is for, and where to buy it

1:49:25 – What’s next for Rebecca

1:50:34 – Rediscovering your early excitement for climbing

Jaksot(382)

EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training

EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3, we step into the weight room. We cover weight training fundamentals, including the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, the big 4...

16 Syys 20241h 32min

EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong

EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong

Girls Gone Hueco is an all-female bouldering film now available on Vimeo. In this episode, I sit down with V11 climber Midori Buechli and filmmaker Long Truong to discuss the making of the film, the p...

15 Syys 20241h 21min

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limi...

9 Syys 20242h 9min

EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall

EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2, we share our top tips for training on spray walls and home walls. We cover training setup considerations, route setting tips, best apps for saving and ...

2 Syys 20241h 10min

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain

Dr. Amy Frugé (DPT) is a former Martial Arts World Champion, rock climber, and the founder of Converge Physical Therapy. We talked about extremity and finger pain from unusual sources, how to maintain...

27 Elo 20242h

EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshop...

19 Elo 20241h 2min

Fundamentals Season 2 Kickoff

Fundamentals Season 2 Kickoff

We're back with Fundamentals Season 2! Jesse Firestone joins me again for six new episodes covering some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber. In season 2, we'll dive deeper into s...

19 Elo 20245min

EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest

EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest

Allison Vest joins me to talk about the Paris Olympics! We talked about our biggest surprises from the men’s and women’s combined semifinals, our thoughts on the route setting, what defines an “electr...

12 Elo 20242h

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