EP 143: Matt Heyliger — Tissue Capacity vs. Biomechanics, Why Mobility Comes Before Strength, and the Eyeball Story

EP 143: Matt Heyliger — Tissue Capacity vs. Biomechanics, Why Mobility Comes Before Strength, and the Eyeball Story

Matt Heyliger, DPT is one of the most knowledgeable people I’ve talked to when it comes to climbing-related injuries and rehab. We talked about climbing together in Ten Sleep, how he is currently helping me treat carpal tunnel syndrome, how to achieve long-term health and performance, his skiing injury and the eyeball story, top recommendations for climbers, lessons from living in Spain, and much more.

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Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-heyliger

Nuggets:

0:06:01 – Camping iterations

0:08:29 – Daughters, and fairy house construction

0:10:06 – Spending a year in Spain, landing in Red Lodge Montana, and the bear den story

0:14:13 – Moose battles, and mountain biking

0:15:29 – The campsite, and our cold weather sends

0:18:53 – An introduction to Matt and his path to physical therapy

0:26:31 – How Matt diagnoses an injury (using my carpal tunnel as an example), and what Matt noticed about my shoulder mechanics

0:38:54 – The skill of injury assessment

0:40:15 – Tissue capacity vs. biomechanics, and ironing out issues early on in your climbing

0:45:35 – Why you should pick up heavy stuff

0:47:26 – Combining loading and optimal mechanics for long-term health and performance

0:49:41 – The path forward for me to fix my carpal tunnel

0:55:21 – Matt’s thoughts on manipulations and chiropractic work

0:59:46 – Imaging in diagnosing injuries, and when imaging can be overused

1:01:36 – Getting attached to a diagnosis

1:04:06 – A bit about pain science, and the importance of hope

1:06:48 – Language cues and mindset

1:10:16 – How chest opening and mobilizing the thoracic spine will likely help fix my carpal tunnel

1:12:12 – How to get my lower trapezius firing again, and the role of dry needling

1:16:59 – My rehab plan for Hueco

1:19:15 – Matt’s hopes for me in returning to Ten Sleep next year

1:22:22 – Why mobility comes before strength

1:25:26 – When to fit stretching into your schedule

1:28:36 – Antagonist training, finger loading, and having a rest day movement activity

1:32:23 – Yoga recommendations for climbers, and having a simple movement practice

1:38:27 – The eyeball story

1:58:16 – Spain

2:05:01 – Embracing the slower pace

2:08:46 – Work-life balance, and the emotional investment of doing work that you love

2:16:36 – Matt’s vision for his PT business

2:18:53 – Where to connect with Matt (mattheyliger.com)

2:19:56 – How to find a good PT

2:22:43 – Matt’s current climbing goal, and getting excited about performance climbing

2:29:35 – Wrap up

Jaksot(382)

EP 253: April Davidson (yeahapril) — Living With a Blind Man, a Decade of Addiction, and Seeking Your Fullest Life

EP 253: April Davidson (yeahapril) — Living With a Blind Man, a Decade of Addiction, and Seeking Your Fullest Life

April Davidson (yeahapril) is a rock climber and content creator. We talked about what it is like living with her blind fiance Justin Salas, growing up and moving to LA, losing her mom, opiate addicti...

16 Joulu 20242h 12min

EP 252: Justin Salas — Life As a Legally Blind Climber, Building Mental Maps, and Being a Changemaker

EP 252: Justin Salas — Life As a Legally Blind Climber, Building Mental Maps, and Being a Changemaker

Justin Salas is a legally blind climber who is a 6x National Champion and the 2018 World Champion. He’s also climbed up to V11 outside. We talked about what his visual experience is like, the psycholo...

9 Joulu 20243h 13min

EP 251: Eric Jerome — The Benefits of Caring Less, Seeking the Minimal Effective Dose, and Developing New Boulders

EP 251: Eric Jerome — The Benefits of Caring Less, Seeking the Minimal Effective Dose, and Developing New Boulders

Eric Jerome is a V15 climber and prolific bouldering developer. We talked about getting hit by a drunk driver, how his injury led to a paradigm shift, why he is actively caring less about climbing, se...

2 Joulu 20242h 25min

EP 250: Beth Rodden — Overcoming Fear, the Unwinnable Game of Climbing, and the Power of Human Stories

EP 250: Beth Rodden — Overcoming Fear, the Unwinnable Game of Climbing, and the Power of Human Stories

Beth Rodden is one of the best female rock climbers of all time. We talked about her kidnapping in Kyrgyzstan, facing backlash after her divorce, reflections on her climbing career, her history with M...

25 Marras 20241h 58min

EP 249: Chris Sharma — Finishing Hard Things, Reinventing Yourself, and Finding the Sweet Spot

EP 249: Chris Sharma — Finishing Hard Things, Reinventing Yourself, and Finding the Sweet Spot

Chris Sharma is one of the greatest climbers of all time. We talked about his rapid ascension as a teenager, the knee injury that almost ended his career, why La Dura Dura was a turning point, reinven...

18 Marras 20242h 28min

EP 248: Thomas Huber — Exploring the Impossible, the Stone Monkey Era, and Finding Freedom in the Mountains

EP 248: Thomas Huber — Exploring the Impossible, the Stone Monkey Era, and Finding Freedom in the Mountains

Thomas Huber is a German rock climbing and mountaineering legend. We talked about his most recent expedition to Pakistan, how to have fun at basecamp, exploring the impossible, his first trip to Buoux...

11 Marras 20242h 14min

EP 247: Todd Perkins — Protecting Moe’s Valley, and What We Can Do to Help

EP 247: Todd Perkins — Protecting Moe’s Valley, and What We Can Do to Help

Moe’s Valley access is under threat! Todd Perkins returns to the show to talk about what is happening with Moe’s Valley, what actions are being taken to protect it, and what we can do to help. You can...

4 Marras 202435min

EP 246: Fundamentals — How to Break a Plateau

EP 246: Fundamentals — How to Break a Plateau

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 6 of 6) — If you climb long enough, you’ll inevitably hit a plateau. In part 6, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls for how to break through plateaus and continue p...

28 Loka 20241h 22min

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