EP 147: Alayna Joy — Coming out to 400k Subscribers, Queerness in Climbing, and Compulsory Heterosexuality

EP 147: Alayna Joy — Coming out to 400k Subscribers, Queerness in Climbing, and Compulsory Heterosexuality

Alayna Joy is a queer content creator and YouTuber, and newly obsessed climber. We talked about her journey of discovering she is gay, coming out publicly on her already-successful YouTube channel, how climbing has become an anchor for her, compulsory heterosexuality, questions we should ask ourselves, queerness in climbing, why our climbing progress slows down over time, and much more.

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alayna-joy

Nuggets:

0:06:36 – Julio

0:09:27 – Places that feel like home

0:16:32 – Feeling like I already know Alayna from watching her channel, and parasocial relationships

0:19:37 – Sharing her story to make others feel less alone

0:21:39 – Starting her YouTube channel in high school, her first three videos, and hitting 800 subscribers

0:27:30 – Working as a server during university, and getting her first YouTube brand deal

0:31:38 – The phenomenon of being an introvert and a content creator

0:34:39 – Bisexuality, and the first time Alayna came out

0:37:54 – Being in a serious relationship with a man, and feeling disconnected from her queerness

0:42:54 – Coming out to her partner as gay, and talking herself out of it

0:46:25 – The constant little voice in her head convincing her she was happy

0:48:08 – “The big oopsie”

0:51:26 – Being afraid that she was playing into bisexual stereotypes by coming out as gay

0:54:41 – Compulsory heterosexuality (comp het), and why it took Alayna so long to realize she was gay

0:58:08 – Why Alayna thought she was demiromantic for most of her adult life

1:00:19 – Seeing the world through new eyes

1:05:16 – “I’m in therapy, and I’M TIRED!”

1:06:05 – Alayna pays me a very nice compliment, and I talk about drawing people in and hoping they learn something that goes beyond rock climbing

1:10:43 – I come out as not a lesbian, and Alayna asks everyone listening to ask themselves a question

1:12:54 – “Climbing is gay.”

1:18:36 – How climbing became an anchor for Alayna

1:21:17 – Working on her relationship with climbing

1:23:32 – Making quick progress as climbers early on, why our progress slows over time, and the magic of climbing

1:32:01 – The stories our brains tell us

1:34:36 – So Cards! (socards.org, use code NUGGET for 20% off)

1:36:29 – So Cards question 1: “If you never had to worry about money, what’s one goal that you would dedicate yourself to?”

1:40:00 – So Cards question 2: “When you were a kid, what scared you about growing up?”

1:46:05 – So Cards question 3: “What do you think people tend to take for granted in their relationships?”

1:53:14 – You’re not alone, and living your life as your most authentic self

1:56:00 – Patron question from Wren: How was your experience finding a queer community within the larger climbing community, and do you have any tips for queer climbers finding these spaces?

2:00:26 – Where to find Alayna on the internet

Jaksot(382)

EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training

EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3, we step into the weight room. We cover weight training fundamentals, including the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, the big 4...

16 Syys 20241h 32min

EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong

EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong

Girls Gone Hueco is an all-female bouldering film now available on Vimeo. In this episode, I sit down with V11 climber Midori Buechli and filmmaker Long Truong to discuss the making of the film, the p...

15 Syys 20241h 21min

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limi...

9 Syys 20242h 9min

EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall

EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2, we share our top tips for training on spray walls and home walls. We cover training setup considerations, route setting tips, best apps for saving and ...

2 Syys 20241h 10min

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain

Dr. Amy Frugé (DPT) is a former Martial Arts World Champion, rock climber, and the founder of Converge Physical Therapy. We talked about extremity and finger pain from unusual sources, how to maintain...

27 Elo 20242h

EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshop...

19 Elo 20241h 2min

Fundamentals Season 2 Kickoff

Fundamentals Season 2 Kickoff

We're back with Fundamentals Season 2! Jesse Firestone joins me again for six new episodes covering some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber. In season 2, we'll dive deeper into s...

19 Elo 20245min

EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest

EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest

Allison Vest joins me to talk about the Paris Olympics! We talked about our biggest surprises from the men’s and women’s combined semifinals, our thoughts on the route setting, what defines an “electr...

12 Elo 20242h

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