Leading the way for systems change: Helena Helmersson on making sustainability a core business imperative

Few leaders in the apparel and textiles industry bring as much hands-on experience across buying, production and CSR as Helena Helmersson did during her time at H&M Group. Her unique position as the only fashion industry executive to move from CSO to CEO gives her a rare, end-to-end view of how sustainability and commercial strategy intersect at scale.

Helmersson’s long-term vision at H&M was clear: sustainability had to be embedded at the heart of the business. Building on work initiated in the 1990s, she helped advance a strategy that increased supply chain transparency, while also expanding textile collection and recycling programmes. Under her leadership, initiatives such as the H&M Conscious range were debuted, reinforcing the belief that sustainable fashion must remain accessible while serving as co-chair of The Fashion Pact.

A consistent theme throughout Helmersson’s leadership has been the need for structural transformation. Sustainability, she argues, should be a mindset that is woven into every part of the organisation. In times of external turbulence, however, delivering on that ambition becomes harder. Helmersson is clear that progress cannot be achieved through brand commitments alone; new systems need to be built, and deep, cross-industry collaboration is essential.

Since stepping down as CEO of H&M in January 2024, Helmersson has continued to shape the industry. She has joined the boards of MANGO, Quizrr and On, and serves as Chair of Circulose.

In this webinar with built in Q&A time, Helena Helmersson shared reflections on:

• What leadership looks like when driving structural change within large organisations
• What enables, and inhibits, CEO action on sustainability, including navigating the tension between profitability and sustainability
• Collaboration in practice: how deep coalitions can work for business
• Where the industry goes next, and the role each stakeholder must play in delivering change