EP 161: Sam Stroh — Botching It and Sending Anyway, and Biggest Lessons from Hard Boulders to Free Climbs on El Cap

EP 161: Sam Stroh — Botching It and Sending Anyway, and Biggest Lessons from Hard Boulders to Free Climbs on El Cap

Sam Stroh is caffeinated, psyched, and ready to send everything from double-digit highballs to free routes on El Cap. We talked about his early climbing and onsighting Moonlight Buttress (5.12+), our coffee and chocolate addictions, finding the perfect climbing partner, the biggest lessons from each discipline of climbing, suffering on the side of El Cap, botching it with tactics, and harrowing sends.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sam-stroh

Nuggets:

0:05:17 – Coffee and morning rituals

0:10:25 – Sam’s stretching and evening routines, and the self-care bell curve

0:13:42 – Sam shares his intentions for the conversation and topics he wants to cover

0:19:27 – Onsighting the Moonlight Buttress 5.12+ in Zion at age 20 with bad tactics

0:28:36 – Meeting his climbing partner Adrian, and trying Desert Gold and Jet Stream in Red Rocks

0:32:31 – Switching between disciplines, and Sam’s thoughts on how he and Adrian are so perfectly aligned

0:35:59 – Sam’s background in sports

0:37:54 – The benefits of bouldering for big wall climbing

0:40:44 – The method to the madness with switching disciplines, and cultivating long-term relationships

0:43:09 – What inspires Sam the most long-term, and having great stories

0:48:39 – Wet moss on El Niño, and trying Wet Lycra Nightmare with Jordan Cannon

0:55:00 – Injuring his hand on the Salathe

0:59:15 – Working on Wet Lycra Nightmare, and Sam and I connect over our love-hate relationship with Smith Rock

1:06:41 – The mindfulness and patience of bouldering

1:12:06 – The quintessential sport climbing experience

1:16:28 – Sam’s biggest lesson from big wall climbing: get a waterproof portaledge fly

1:24:44 – Thoughts on big wall ethics and style

1:34:12 – Sam’s ape index, and the height-dependent nature of El Cap

1:37:34 – The Freerider story

1:45:28 – Favorite big wall and bouldering snacks

1:46:58 – Sam’s knee injury

1:51:01 – Upcoming trip to Spain, Greece, and France

1:52:21 – Thoughts on the lack of information on endurance training for climbing, and rehabbing his shoulder

1:58:30 – Lessons from switching between bouldering or training and sport climbing

2:02:11 – No more treadwalls in gyms

2:03:44 – Watching the river vs. diving in

Episoder(382)

EP 122: Jared Vagy — How to Prevent Knee, Shoulder, Elbow, and Finger Injuries as Climbers

EP 122: Jared Vagy — How to Prevent Knee, Shoulder, Elbow, and Finger Injuries as Climbers

Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist who specializes in climbing injury rehab and prevention. We talked about freestyle rapping, the most common injuries in rock climbing, how to prevent knee, shoul...

13 Jun 20222h 35min

EP 121: Carol Simpson — Being a Girl in the South in the 1950s, Yoga as the Fountain of Youth, and Ageism in Climbing

EP 121: Carol Simpson — Being a Girl in the South in the 1950s, Yoga as the Fountain of Youth, and Ageism in Climbing

Carol Simpson is a 77-year-old rock climber and yoga instructor from Lone Pine, CA. We talked about growing up in the South in the 1950s, identifying as a “tomboy”, feeling pressure to be feminine as ...

6 Jun 20222h 17min

EP 120: Lea Volpe — The World of Paraclimbing Competitions, How We Perceive Wheelchairs, and Empathy in Coaching

EP 120: Lea Volpe — The World of Paraclimbing Competitions, How We Perceive Wheelchairs, and Empathy in Coaching

Lea Volpe is a paraclimber for Great Britain and a 2x medalist at the IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships. Lea holds down a 9-5 job working in health policy, coaches junior athletes, and is essentia...

30 Mai 20222h 20min

EP 119: Carrie Cooper — Thinking of Ourselves as Athletes, Research in Climbing, and Mobility and Warming Up

EP 119: Carrie Cooper — Thinking of Ourselves as Athletes, Research in Climbing, and Mobility and Warming Up

Dr. Carrie Cooper is a former professional climber and a doctor of physical therapy. We talked about her background in gymnastics and dance, bouldering in the early 2000s, her path to physical therapy...

23 Mai 20222h 36min

EP 118: Chad Andrews Interviews Steven Dimmitt — Repost from the Clipping Chains Podcast

EP 118: Chad Andrews Interviews Steven Dimmitt — Repost from the Clipping Chains Podcast

The tables are turned in this episode! Steven Dimmitt joins Chad Andrews from Clipping Chains to talk about leaving his engineering career to start the podcast, building a craft vs. pursuing a passion...

16 Mai 20221h 55min

Follow-Up. Joe Kinder — Sending 'Mamajamma', and What I Learned from 5 Weeks of Projecting with Joe (Teaser)

Follow-Up. Joe Kinder — Sending 'Mamajamma', and What I Learned from 5 Weeks of Projecting with Joe (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Joe Kinder. I sat down with Joe in a cave in Utah to talk about his process for sending his new route ‘Mamaja...

9 Mai 202232min

EP 117: Yves Gravelle — Lessons From Grip Sports, Basing Your Training on the Demands of Your Goal, and Top 3 Finger Training Methods

EP 117: Yves Gravelle — Lessons From Grip Sports, Basing Your Training on the Demands of Your Goal, and Top 3 Finger Training Methods

Yves Gravelle is a V15 boulderer from Canada and a 3x APL World Champion (i.e. grip competitions). We talked about lessons from grip training that we can apply to climbing, the importance of simplicit...

2 Mai 20221h 57min

EP 116: Paul Robinson — Coming Back From Injuries, Opening Up About Autism, and Working Boulders Top Down

EP 116: Paul Robinson — Coming Back From Injuries, Opening Up About Autism, and Working Boulders Top Down

Paul Robinson is one of the top boulderers in the world and has been climbing at a V15 level for more than a decade. We talked about building his new house, recovering from neck surgery, his recent di...

25 Apr 20222h 33min

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