The Ultimate Guide to Climbing Injury Rehab and Prevention with Paul Houghoughi

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Summary

In this episode, physiotherapist Paul Houghhoughi, known as the climbing physio, shares his extensive expertise on climbing injuries, rehabilitation, and injury prevention. We explore common injuries, assessment techniques, rehab strategies, and the evolving landscape of climbing physiotherapy.

Guest

Paul is one of the leading physiotherapists in the climbing world and currently serves as the official physiotherapist for the Great Britain Climbing Team. He has worked with climbers from recreational athletes all the way to Olympic and World Cup competitors, combining over 25 years of climbing experience with extensive expertise in injury rehabilitation and performance.

Chapters

00:00:00 - Introduction to Paul Houghoughi, The Climbing Physio
00:01:30 - How Paul became a climbing physio and worked with elite climbers
00:03:29 - Biggest myths in climbing rehab and injury prevention
00:06:04 - Common injuries in recreational vs elite climbers
00:08:43 - Overuse injuries commonly seen in elite climbers
00:10:03 - Is climbing really a finger sport?
00:10:49 - How climbing injuries and rehab have changed over the last 10 years
00:12:19 - Assessing pulley injuries and differentiating them from tenosynovitis
00:17:22 - Sponsored segment: WriteUpp
00:18:55 - Should climbers splint after a pulley rupture?
00:21:20 - Differentiating A2 pulley pain from other hand structures
00:24:29 - Biggest mistakes clinicians make when treating climbers
00:27:51 - Chronic pulley injuries and graded rehabilitation examples
00:31:32 - How to decide when to progress pulley rehab
00:32:37 - Sponsored segment: Physiotutors courses
00:33:37 - When imaging helps or confuses finger injury management
00:37:19 - The role of the hangboard in rehab and finger strengthening
00:39:53 - Building long-term finger health and climbing resilience
00:44:50 - Advice for beginner climbers who want to improve without injury
00:47:00 - Sponsored segment: Physiotutors membership
00:48:08 - Climbing load, rest, and long-term progress
00:50:48 - Paul's digital edge device and finger force testing
00:53:49 - What is overhyped or misunderstood in climbing training?
00:56:50 - What climbing rehab and performance still need to understand
00:58:11 - Why physios should experience climbing themselves
00:59:41 - Final clinical tips for physios working with climbers
01:00:40 - Where to find Paul online
01:01:10 - Outro and Physiotutors app mention

Bonus Material

Download the referenced transcript including PubMed Links and a high-resolution infographic on this episode as part of your Physiotutors membership on the Physiotutors App.

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