EP 182: Carlos Tkacz & Steph Letourneau — Lessons From 7 Trips to Rocklands, Being Good at Being Consistent, and Writing Novels

EP 182: Carlos Tkacz & Steph Letourneau — Lessons From 7 Trips to Rocklands, Being Good at Being Consistent, and Writing Novels

Carlos Tkacz returns and is joined by his partner Steph Letourneau for a sitdown here in Rocklands. We talked about their diet habits, lessons from their 7 trips to Rocklands, learning to try harder, comparison games, respecting the difficulty of climbing, being good at being consistent, balancing your carbon footprint, making the most of a climbing trip to South Africa, writing novels, and much more!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas

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Carlos's Previous Episode:

EP 58: Carlos Tkacz

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/carlos-and-steph

Nuggets:

0:03:36 – Breakfast and food habits

0:06:24 – Trading climbing days with your partner

0:08:48 – Resting more to climb harder

0:11:01 – 7 trips to Rocklands apiece, and how to make long flights better

0:13:12 – Teaching and going back to school

0:19:01 – Why Carlos and Steph keep coming back to Rocklands year after year

0:21:23 – Steph’s experience on her first trip to Rocklands, and why both of them prefer bouldering to trad climbing

0:28:01 – Describing Rocklands’ style, Carlos’ first 8B ‘Monkey Business', and learning to try harder

0:33:10 – Steph’s lesson in trying hard, practicing her yell in the car, and getting hyped on Adele

0:37:21 – Carlos' experience watching a guy yell in Thailand, Coach Carlos, and asking if people want feedback

0:39:50 – Steph’s send of ‘Ghost in the Darkness’ 7C/+, and trying ‘Caroline’ 7C+

0:43:02 – Carlos’ tick list from the trip, sending ‘Airstar’ 8B, and reconnecting with the joy of climbing

0:46:16 – What helped Carlos change his mindset, and sending ‘Into the Void’ 8B

0:50:01 – Sending ‘Airstar’, and drawing inspiration from “the kids”

0:52:36 – Favorite Rocklands films

0:57:21 – Struggling with comparison games, respecting the difficulty of climbing, and doing your best

1:07:35 – Climbing is centralizing, and mental energy as a finite resource

1:09:42 – Unpacking my feelings about not progressing quickly enough, and our American obsession with speed

1:12:21 – Being good at being consistent

1:14:12 – Dopamine hits vs. building relationships with climbs

1:19:22 – Growing as a climber in Rocklands, and the stories we tell ourselves

1:22:13 – My shift in mindset in Rocklands, and redefining a lifetime worth of climbing

1:24:47 – Steph talks about how every season in Rocklands is a completely different experience

1:27:02 – Getting the most out of the experience in South Africa, and learning about the place and its history and politics

1:35:27 – Taking breaks from climbing to have other experiences

1:41:53 – Planning the whole year around their Rocklands trips, and doing two 12-week training blocks

1:45:47 – Teaching

1:55:41 – Flying, carbon footprint, and how our brains make shortcuts

2:06:29 – Being a park person, and how we’ve impacted nature

2:09:26 – Steph’s thoughts on climate from a physics perspective, and trying to be carbon neutral on balance

2:16:59 – Offsetting CO2 emissions

2:20:44 – How they fit their 12-week training blocks into a school semester

2:23:27 – The Training Trip, and building a community in Vegas

2:28:59 – Nesting and baby fever

2:33:04 – Training Weight, and the commitment to family

2:36:16 – Carlos’ new book list

2:40:31 – Speculative fiction

2:42:09 – Carlos’ latest book projects, and Steph’s first novel

2:45:59 – Carlos’ horror film

2:48:19 – Steph’s new book project, and where to find her first book

2:49:54 – Publishing a book

2:53:04 – The feedback Steph got from her publisher

2:54:58 – The Day You Became A Better Writer by Scott Adams

2:56:23 – Having a family, ‘Sky’ as the final boss of the 8Bs, and making the horror movie

2:58:24 – Enjoying the process

2:59:40 – What’s next?

Episoder(385)

EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics

EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics

Sam Watson is the current world record holder in speed climbing (4.64 seconds) and an Olympic Bronze medalist. We talked about breaking the world record in Paris, how he makes a living, building a soc...

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EP 294: Melissa Strong — Dying and Coming Back to Life, Having Her Arms Sewn Together, and Returning to Climbing with 7 ¾ Fingers

EP 294: Melissa Strong — Dying and Coming Back to Life, Having Her Arms Sewn Together, and Returning to Climbing with 7 ¾ Fingers

Melissa Strong is a boulderer and restaurateur based in Estes Park, CO, who nearly lost her life in an electrocution accident in April 2017. We talked about her accident, what she experienced on the o...

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EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

Joel Unema is a high-performance rock climber and coach for Climb Strong, and has climbed V14 and 5.14b. We talked about how Tyler Nelson helped him unlock V14 finger strength, how Steve Bechtel helpe...

23 Feb 2h 4min

EP 292: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Repost from Patreon)

EP 292: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Repost from Patreon)

Today, I am resharing one of the most valuable episodes I have ever recorded. This episode with Tom Randall was originally aired on Patreon in Feb, 2022. We talked about how to use your friends to dis...

9 Feb 1h 48min

EP 291: Charlie Boscoe — Pro Climbing League: Comps Are About to Change Forever

EP 291: Charlie Boscoe — Pro Climbing League: Comps Are About to Change Forever

Charlie Boscoe is a former IFSC commentator, writer, and co-founder of the Pro Climbing League, a bold new head-to-head bouldering series debuting on February 28. We talked about his first experience ...

26 Jan 1h 18min

EP 290: Chris Schulte — Developing Your Own Style, Age-Proof Motivation, and Redefining Progress Beyond Grades

EP 290: Chris Schulte — Developing Your Own Style, Age-Proof Motivation, and Redefining Progress Beyond Grades

Chris Schulte is an elite boulderer known for bold first ascents, compression mastery, and a thoughtful approach that prioritizes style over grades. We talked about his evolution as a climber, develop...

12 Jan 2h 25min

EP 289: Christian Beckwith — The 10th Mountain Division, WW2 Guerrilla Warfare Stories, and the Birth of Modern Climbing Gear

EP 289: Christian Beckwith — The 10th Mountain Division, WW2 Guerrilla Warfare Stories, and the Birth of Modern Climbing Gear

Christian Beckwith is the former editor of The American Alpine Journal and Alpinist Magazine, and the creator of the award-winning podcast, Ninety-Pound Rucksack. We talked about the formation of the ...

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EP 288: Carol Simpson Returns — Life After 80 Years Old, Longevity Routines, and Training for a World Record

EP 288: Carol Simpson Returns — Life After 80 Years Old, Longevity Routines, and Training for a World Record

Carol Simpson returns to the podcast to talk about life after 80 years old, and everything she does to stay healthy and climb hard. We talked about making the move to Salt Lake, discovering Dr. Peter ...

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