EP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns

EP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns

Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast! Charlie joins me from Fontainebleau to talk about the epiphany he had in Rocklands, leaving his job to focus on Paradigm Climbing, teaming up with Alex Johnson, getting obsessed with ‘The Big Island’ 8C/V15, building a perfect replica of the boulder, how to train on your limit projects, the concept of the “ideal circuit”, and much more!

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-schreiber-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:49) – Eating mangos in Fontainbleau

(00:05:00) – Epiphanies from his Rocklands trip

(00:09:15) – Capacity and the group psych

(00:12:06) – Strategy and resting hard

(00:15:22) – Sleep

(00:16:58) – Partnering with Alex Johnson

(00:20:45) – What is Paradigm Climbing?

(00:23:11) – Solving coaching puzzles

(00:25:22) – 9-week cycles

(00:27:34) – Deloads

(00:29:19) – The brain adapts faster than the body

(00:31:12) – Looking back and ahead

(00:36:46) – Stacking training programs

(00:42:15) – “It’s not your last day”

(00:45:31) – Having Martin Keller as a mentor

(00:46:37) – The similarity between training and performing

(00:48:13) – Supplemental training on trips

(00:50:44) – Conditions in Font, and ‘Karma’ 8A+/V12

(00:53:06) – ‘Getting psyched on The Big Island’ 8C/V15

(00:57:59) – Blanancing trips with his marriage

(01:00:15) – Building ‘The Big Island’ replica

(01:11:34) – How much does the replica cost?

(01:14:14) – Training on the replica

(01:22:21) – How to train on your project

(01:27:45) – How much progress did he make on the replica?

(01:29:16) – Progress and time remaining on his trip

(01:32:32) – How he is projecting the actual boulder, mobility, and sore ankles

(01:35:45) – Will Charlie train this way on future projects?

(01:38:40) – Will replicas unlock V18?

(01:40:15) – Nalle’s FA of ‘Burden of Dreams’ 9A/V17

(01:42:20) – The Ideal Circuit

(01:46:43) – Setting specific comp boulders for Adam Shahar

(01:51:32) – How you win comps vs. not lose comps

(01:54:42) – How to create your own Ideal Circuit

(01:56:30) – Creating your own boulders

(01:59:08) – Imposing demands

(02:01:48) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Episoder(381)

EP 291: Charlie Boscoe — Pro Climbing League: Comps Are About to Change Forever

EP 291: Charlie Boscoe — Pro Climbing League: Comps Are About to Change Forever

Charlie Boscoe is a former IFSC commentator, writer, and co-founder of the Pro Climbing League, a bold new head-to-head bouldering series debuting on February 28. We talked about his first experience ...

26 Jan 1h 18min

EP 290: Chris Schulte — Developing Your Own Style, Age-Proof Motivation, and Redefining Progress Beyond Grades

EP 290: Chris Schulte — Developing Your Own Style, Age-Proof Motivation, and Redefining Progress Beyond Grades

Chris Schulte is an elite boulderer known for bold first ascents, compression mastery, and a thoughtful approach that prioritizes style over grades. We talked about his evolution as a climber, develop...

12 Jan 2h 25min

EP 289: Christian Beckwith — The 10th Mountain Division, WW2 Guerrilla Warfare Stories, and the Birth of Modern Climbing Gear

EP 289: Christian Beckwith — The 10th Mountain Division, WW2 Guerrilla Warfare Stories, and the Birth of Modern Climbing Gear

Christian Beckwith is the former editor of The American Alpine Journal and Alpinist Magazine, and the creator of the award-winning podcast, Ninety-Pound Rucksack. We talked about the formation of the ...

15 Des 20251h 49min

EP 288: Carol Simpson Returns — Life After 80 Years Old, Longevity Routines, and Training for a World Record

EP 288: Carol Simpson Returns — Life After 80 Years Old, Longevity Routines, and Training for a World Record

Carol Simpson returns to the podcast to talk about life after 80 years old, and everything she does to stay healthy and climb hard. We talked about making the move to Salt Lake, discovering Dr. Peter ...

1 Des 20251h 48min

EP 287: Domen Škofic — The Red Bull Plane Project, Rediscovering Passion in Flatanger, and Trying Silence 9c

EP 287: Domen Škofic — The Red Bull Plane Project, Rediscovering Passion in Flatanger, and Trying Silence 9c

Domen Škofic is a Slovenian professional climber and a 5x World Cup gold medalist. We talked about his Red Bull Plane Climb project, skydiving, building a climbing gym with his father, retiring from t...

17 Nov 20251h 43min

EP 286: Steve Moss — Why Discomfort Fuels Breakthroughs, Double V12 Days at Age 40, and 455 V-Points in 24 Hours

EP 286: Steve Moss — Why Discomfort Fuels Breakthroughs, Double V12 Days at Age 40, and 455 V-Points in 24 Hours

Steve Moss is a high-level boulderer and the co-founder of a brewery and pizzeria in Spokane, WA. We talked about finding climbing at age 24, his breakthrough season climbing three V12s in less than t...

3 Nov 20252h 47min

EP 285: Tyler Stableford — Finding More Joy in Climbing, Breaking Plateaus, and Inputs Over Outcomes

EP 285: Tyler Stableford — Finding More Joy in Climbing, Breaking Plateaus, and Inputs Over Outcomes

Tyler Stableford is a lifelong climber and psychotherapist specializing in trauma resolution and treatment-resistant conditions. We talked about how to find more joy in our climbing, whether high perf...

20 Okt 20251h 57min

EP 284: Four PTs — The Case for Taking a Break, Heel Hooking Injuries, & Off-the-Wall Strength Training

EP 284: Four PTs — The Case for Taking a Break, Heel Hooking Injuries, & Off-the-Wall Strength Training

Dr. Jared Vagy returns to the podcast and is joined by three physical therapy students and graduates, Sarah Kremer, Dawson Freeze, and Michael Larson. We talked about three recent articles covering th...

6 Okt 20251h 24min

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