EP 220: Alannah Yip (Olympian) — Alopecia, Finding Power Beyond Hair Loss, and Her Fight Against Disordered Eating

EP 220: Alannah Yip (Olympian) — Alopecia, Finding Power Beyond Hair Loss, and Her Fight Against Disordered Eating

Alannah Yip is a professional climber from Canada who competed at the Tokyo Olympics. We talked about getting diagnosed with alopecia and the emotional journey of losing her hair, taking back her power, preparing for the Olympic Qualifying Series, lessons from Tokyo, mantras for slab boulders, her involvement with IFSC policies to prevent eating disorders and RED-S, her eating disorder as a teenager, why she plans to retire from comps, rock climbing goals, and much more!

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EP 220: Alannah Yip — Uncut Video!

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alannah-yip

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:11) – Alopecia

(00:07:31) – Identity crisis

(00:11:33) – Deciding to shave her head

(00:12:55) – Taking back her power

(00:19:55) – Setting it on the back burner

(00:25:33) – Training camps

(00:30:23) – Alannah’s coaches

(00:33:47) – Training for Paris vs. Tokyo

(00:39:26) – Feelings about Tokyo

(00:42:08) – Lessons from Tokyo

(00:44:06) – Training with other women

(00:46:52) – Working on slab

(00:50:10) – The Olympic Qualifying Series

(00:55:00) – Olympic vs. World Cup lead style

(00:59:27) – Why she quit comps during college

(01:02:10) – Making the jump to World Cups

(01:04:35) – Reexamining her relationship with climbing as an adult

(01:08:54) – Engineering & coaching

(01:11:28) – Excited to retire from comps

(01:18:24) – IFSC policies to prevent eating disorders & RED-S

(01:30:05) – Self-reporting & BMI

(01:35:39) – Alannah’s eating disorder as a teenager

(01:41:53) – The turning point

(01:43:50) – Dealing with hard moments

(01:45:30) – Conflicted feelings about food

(01:48:13) – Alannah’s PSAs

(01:50:15) – My PSA

(01:53:03) – Mutual appreciation

(01:55:05) – What’s next

(01:56:24) – Rapid fire Qs

(02:01:21) – Occasionally on Instagram

(02:04:49) – Wrap up

Episoder(381)

EP 291: Charlie Boscoe — Pro Climbing League: Comps Are About to Change Forever

EP 291: Charlie Boscoe — Pro Climbing League: Comps Are About to Change Forever

Charlie Boscoe is a former IFSC commentator, writer, and co-founder of the Pro Climbing League, a bold new head-to-head bouldering series debuting on February 28. We talked about his first experience ...

26 Jan 1h 18min

EP 290: Chris Schulte — Developing Your Own Style, Age-Proof Motivation, and Redefining Progress Beyond Grades

EP 290: Chris Schulte — Developing Your Own Style, Age-Proof Motivation, and Redefining Progress Beyond Grades

Chris Schulte is an elite boulderer known for bold first ascents, compression mastery, and a thoughtful approach that prioritizes style over grades. We talked about his evolution as a climber, develop...

12 Jan 2h 25min

EP 289: Christian Beckwith — The 10th Mountain Division, WW2 Guerrilla Warfare Stories, and the Birth of Modern Climbing Gear

EP 289: Christian Beckwith — The 10th Mountain Division, WW2 Guerrilla Warfare Stories, and the Birth of Modern Climbing Gear

Christian Beckwith is the former editor of The American Alpine Journal and Alpinist Magazine, and the creator of the award-winning podcast, Ninety-Pound Rucksack. We talked about the formation of the ...

15 Des 20251h 49min

EP 288: Carol Simpson Returns — Life After 80 Years Old, Longevity Routines, and Training for a World Record

EP 288: Carol Simpson Returns — Life After 80 Years Old, Longevity Routines, and Training for a World Record

Carol Simpson returns to the podcast to talk about life after 80 years old, and everything she does to stay healthy and climb hard. We talked about making the move to Salt Lake, discovering Dr. Peter ...

1 Des 20251h 48min

EP 287: Domen Škofic — The Red Bull Plane Project, Rediscovering Passion in Flatanger, and Trying Silence 9c

EP 287: Domen Škofic — The Red Bull Plane Project, Rediscovering Passion in Flatanger, and Trying Silence 9c

Domen Škofic is a Slovenian professional climber and a 5x World Cup gold medalist. We talked about his Red Bull Plane Climb project, skydiving, building a climbing gym with his father, retiring from t...

17 Nov 20251h 43min

EP 286: Steve Moss — Why Discomfort Fuels Breakthroughs, Double V12 Days at Age 40, and 455 V-Points in 24 Hours

EP 286: Steve Moss — Why Discomfort Fuels Breakthroughs, Double V12 Days at Age 40, and 455 V-Points in 24 Hours

Steve Moss is a high-level boulderer and the co-founder of a brewery and pizzeria in Spokane, WA. We talked about finding climbing at age 24, his breakthrough season climbing three V12s in less than t...

3 Nov 20252h 47min

EP 285: Tyler Stableford — Finding More Joy in Climbing, Breaking Plateaus, and Inputs Over Outcomes

EP 285: Tyler Stableford — Finding More Joy in Climbing, Breaking Plateaus, and Inputs Over Outcomes

Tyler Stableford is a lifelong climber and psychotherapist specializing in trauma resolution and treatment-resistant conditions. We talked about how to find more joy in our climbing, whether high perf...

20 Okt 20251h 57min

EP 284: Four PTs — The Case for Taking a Break, Heel Hooking Injuries, & Off-the-Wall Strength Training

EP 284: Four PTs — The Case for Taking a Break, Heel Hooking Injuries, & Off-the-Wall Strength Training

Dr. Jared Vagy returns to the podcast and is joined by three physical therapy students and graduates, Sarah Kremer, Dawson Freeze, and Michael Larson. We talked about three recent articles covering th...

6 Okt 20251h 24min

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