EP 224: Jana Švecová — Pushing the Limits of Female Bouldering, Finding Silver Linings When Injured, and Chasing a Lifetime Goal

EP 224: Jana Švecová — Pushing the Limits of Female Bouldering, Finding Silver Linings When Injured, and Chasing a Lifetime Goal

Jana Švecová is a professional rock climber from the Czech Republic who has emerged as one of the top female boulderers in the world. We talked about her upbringing and her early success in competitions, her pivot to outdoor bouldering, her inspiration for choosing ‘Terranova’ 8C+/V16 as a project, making the first ascent of ‘Nova’ 8C/V15, using her finger injury as an opportunity, current training, and much more!

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 224: Jana Švecová — Uncut Video

Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!

physivantage.com/discount/NUG20

Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!

Check out Crimpd!

crimpd.com

Or download the Crimpd app for free!

Check out Tindeq!

tindeq.com

Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order!

Check out KAYA!

kayaclimb.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jana-svecova

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:44) – Jana’s upbringing

(00:07:18) – Quitting her job to climb full time

(00:08:38) – What inspires her about ‘Terranova’ 8C+/V16

(00:12:39) – Climbing has it all

(00:18:08) – A natural talent

(00:22:20) – Discovering outdoor bouldering

(00:25:57) – Childhood best friends

(00:30:04) – Sharing successes

(00:33:04) – ‘Nova’ 8C/V15

(00:47:56) – The frustrations of projecting

(00:50:46) – The next steps for ‘Terranova’

(00:54:02) – Using her finger injury as an opportunity

(00:58:22) – Working with her coach

(01:03:23) – Improving her shoulder strength

(01:08:09) – How her training has changed

(01:11:58) – Building a climbing wall in a second apartment

(01:15:18) – Building my own home wall

(01:17:55) – Training for ‘Terranova’

(01:30:02) – Motivation and side projects

(01:35:18) – Self-belief

(01:37:46) – Coordination and muscle memory

(01:40:37) – Harry Potter museum

(01:43:21) – Hand tattoos

(01:44:39) – Favorite post-climbing food

(01:46:15) – Ultimate achievement

(01:48:51) – Best decision

(01:53:17) – Bug snacks

(01:56:00) – Happiest moment

(01:58:58) – Silver linings

(02:03:11) – Proudest of

(02:06:47) – Favorite rock type

(02:07:22) – Go-to climbing shoes

(02:11:27) – Wrap up

Episoder(388)

EP 51: Chris and Heather Weidner — Kneebar Wizardry, Projecting Tips, and Supporting Each Other’s Goals

EP 51: Chris and Heather Weidner — Kneebar Wizardry, Projecting Tips, and Supporting Each Other’s Goals

Chris and Heather Weidner are a hardcore climbing couple, both with many 5.14s under their belt across multiple rock climbing disciplines. We talked about drink counting, New Year resolutions, current...

18 Jan 20211h 50min

EP 50: Jon Cardwell — Projecting 5.15, Pre-Training Modes, and Bouldering for Sport Climbing

EP 50: Jon Cardwell — Projecting 5.15, Pre-Training Modes, and Bouldering for Sport Climbing

Jon Cardwell is a professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering and sport climbing. Jon’s tick list includes V15, multiple 5.15a’s, and hundreds of 5.14s. We talked about lessons learned fro...

11 Jan 20211h 45min

Follow-Up: Lizzy VanPatten — 'Make Me Sanguine' (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Lizzy VanPatten — 'Make Me Sanguine' (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Lizzy VanPatten. We talked about her FA of ‘Make Me Sanguine’ 5.13a—a beautiful new trad route on some o...

8 Jan 202115min

Darek Krol Memorial Clip

Darek Krol Memorial Clip

This is a short clip that I shared at Darek Krol’s memorial service. I felt that this clip captured some of Darek’s philosophy of life, his spirit, and his humor. I wanted to share it here in case you...

4 Jan 20218min

EP 49: Remembering Darek Krol

EP 49: Remembering Darek Krol

Darek Krol was known by many as the “Mayor of Rifle”. He managed to climb 400+ of Rifle’s roughly 500 routes in his 23 years in the canyon. Darek was killed in an avalanche shortly after this intervie...

4 Jan 20213h 14min

Merry Christmas!

Merry Christmas!

In this episode, Steven thanks listeners for an amazing year and for supporting the podcast. He also shares some Christmas karaoke that he recorded in his van...Feedback Form:  thenuggetclimbing.com/f...

21 Des 20205min

EP 48: Alex Johnson (Part 2) — Isometric Training, Getting Strong, and the Lock-Off Challenge

EP 48: Alex Johnson (Part 2) — Isometric Training, Getting Strong, and the Lock-Off Challenge

This is part 2 of my conversation with Alex Johnson. We talked about how she improved from 12b to 14a in her sport climbing, why she no longer does weighted pull-ups, isometric training for arm streng...

14 Des 202046min

Follow-Up: Jasna Hodžić — Projecting 101 (...More like 401) (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Jasna Hodžić — Projecting 101 (...More like 401) (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Jasna Hodžić. We talked about the projecting process and Jasna’s notetaking process, what she learned fr...

10 Des 202018min

Populært innen Fakta

fastlegen
dine-penger-pengeradet
relasjonspodden-med-dora-thorhallsdottir-kjersti-idem
mikkels-paskenotter
foreldreradet
rss-bisarr-historie
treningspodden
rss-strid-de-norske-borgerkrigene
jakt-og-fiskepodden
rss-sunn-okonomi
ukast
hverdagspsyken
lederskap-nhhs-podkast-om-ledelse
sinnsyn
rss-bak-luftfarten
takk-og-lov-med-anine-kierulf
fryktlos
rss-kunsten-a-leve
rss-kull
gravid-uke-for-uke