Expert Analysis: Training with Dr. Tyler Nelson

Expert Analysis: Training with Dr. Tyler Nelson

Dr. Tyler Nelson from Camp 4 Human Performance joins the show to look back at Season 1's interviews with 10 of the biggest names in climbing to see what themes and takeaways there are through the lens of Training.

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Tyler is bringing cutting edge science to the world of training for climbing and, in the process, he is blowing up myths of training that we’ve long thought to be true and helping climbers, from pros like Alex Johnson to everyday climbers, identify exactly what types of training will take their climbing performance to new heights. In graduate school Tyler completed a dual doctorate/masters degree in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading and rehabilitation. He is also a certified strength and conditioning specialist through the NSCA and teaches conferences worldwide on a host of topics. Strap on your helmet, this one is packed with truth bombs!

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Topics:

  • Fast fingers vs strong fingers
  • Injury prevention and rehab
  • How to know when you're approaching junk mileage
  • Common plateaus and how to break through
  • The pyramid scheme

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This season is supported by PhysiVantage, the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Visit www.physivantage.com/discount/STRUGGLE15 to receive 15% off your full priced nutrition order.

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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

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Want to be a podcast hero and score yourself some rad limited edition swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @c4hp.

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Free Sticker Alert! Please rate and review the show -- it really helps us to reach a wider audience! Snap a pic of your review and post to IG and tag @thestruggleclimbingshow so that we can find you, and we'll send you a sticker just because you're rad.

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This show is hosted by Ryan Devlin and produced by Mary Mathis and Ryan Devlin, with additional support from Emily Holland.

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Let's climb hard and do good things in the world!

Episoder(186)

Coach Nate Drolet: Gym Boulders are Too Tall, Hueco Tanks Reflections, and Advice to His Younger Self

Coach Nate Drolet: Gym Boulders are Too Tall, Hueco Tanks Reflections, and Advice to His Younger Self

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinic...

18 Feb 1h 23min

Ethan Salvo: V1 to V16 in 7 Years, Movement Mastery, and Capturing the Magic

Ethan Salvo: V1 to V16 in 7 Years, Movement Mastery, and Capturing the Magic

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinic...

11 Feb 1h 34min

Dr. Tyler Nelson: Stronger Wrists, Stronger Climbing

Dr. Tyler Nelson: Stronger Wrists, Stronger Climbing

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinic...

4 Feb 1h 28min

Pro Clinic: Coach Charlie Schreiber on Mastering Dynos from Beginner to Advanced (FREE)

Pro Clinic: Coach Charlie Schreiber on Mastering Dynos from Beginner to Advanced (FREE)

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggle...

28 Jan 40min

Weekend Warrior: Mom of 2, Full-Time Career, 5.12 Crusher. It's Hard, but it's Worth it!

Weekend Warrior: Mom of 2, Full-Time Career, 5.12 Crusher. It's Hard, but it's Worth it!

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinic...

21 Jan 1h 12min

Anna Hazelnutt | Crag Chat: Colombia Climbing, Injury Update, and Surprise Guest Connor Runge

Anna Hazelnutt | Crag Chat: Colombia Climbing, Injury Update, and Surprise Guest Connor Runge

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinic...

14 Jan 1h 1min

Tim Emmett: Sending His Hardest Project at 51, Training and Mindset Breakthroughs, and What's Next

Tim Emmett: Sending His Hardest Project at 51, Training and Mindset Breakthroughs, and What's Next

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggle...

7 Jan 1h 11min

Road to V8: My Kilter Reassessment and the 2026 Plan

Road to V8: My Kilter Reassessment and the 2026 Plan

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggle...

17 Des 20251h 9min

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