Expert Analysis: Training with Dr. Tyler Nelson

Expert Analysis: Training with Dr. Tyler Nelson

Dr. Tyler Nelson from Camp 4 Human Performance joins the show to look back at Season 1's interviews with 10 of the biggest names in climbing to see what themes and takeaways there are through the lens of Training.

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Tyler is bringing cutting edge science to the world of training for climbing and, in the process, he is blowing up myths of training that we’ve long thought to be true and helping climbers, from pros like Alex Johnson to everyday climbers, identify exactly what types of training will take their climbing performance to new heights. In graduate school Tyler completed a dual doctorate/masters degree in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading and rehabilitation. He is also a certified strength and conditioning specialist through the NSCA and teaches conferences worldwide on a host of topics. Strap on your helmet, this one is packed with truth bombs!

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Topics:

  • Fast fingers vs strong fingers
  • Injury prevention and rehab
  • How to know when you're approaching junk mileage
  • Common plateaus and how to break through
  • The pyramid scheme

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This season is supported by PhysiVantage, the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Visit www.physivantage.com/discount/STRUGGLE15 to receive 15% off your full priced nutrition order.

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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

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Want to be a podcast hero and score yourself some rad limited edition swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @c4hp.

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Free Sticker Alert! Please rate and review the show -- it really helps us to reach a wider audience! Snap a pic of your review and post to IG and tag @thestruggleclimbingshow so that we can find you, and we'll send you a sticker just because you're rad.

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This show is hosted by Ryan Devlin and produced by Mary Mathis and Ryan Devlin, with additional support from Emily Holland.

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Let's climb hard and do good things in the world!

Episoder(186)

Pro Clinic: Dr. Tyler Nelson on How to Maintain and GAIN Strength Beyond Age 35 (FREE)

Pro Clinic: Dr. Tyler Nelson on How to Maintain and GAIN Strength Beyond Age 35 (FREE)

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggle...

10 Des 202530min

Ethan Pringle: Common Climber Mistakes, Releasing Mental Baggage, and Finding Better Beta

Ethan Pringle: Common Climber Mistakes, Releasing Mental Baggage, and Finding Better Beta

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggle...

3 Des 20251h 49min

My Training Plog: November 2025

My Training Plog: November 2025

Casually reflecting on my training, performance, and experimentation for the month, including: Recap of November goals (hits and misses) Learnings from my second 12c What being "board strong" has mea...

26 Nov 20251h 2min

Coach Tom Randall: Training Strength for Endurance, How to Self-Assess Weaknesses, Max Hang Testing, Crack 101, and other Listener Questions

Coach Tom Randall: Training Strength for Endurance, How to Self-Assess Weaknesses, Max Hang Testing, Crack 101, and other Listener Questions

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggle...

19 Nov 20251h 17min

How to Optimize Your Skin for Peak Climbing Performance

How to Optimize Your Skin for Peak Climbing Performance

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggle...

12 Nov 20251h 19min

Weekend Warrior: Breaking into V7 and 5.12 on Just 3 Hrs per Week at the Gym

Weekend Warrior: Breaking into V7 and 5.12 on Just 3 Hrs per Week at the Gym

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggle...

5 Nov 20251h 14min

Pro Clinic: Dr. David Spiegel on Self-Hypnosis to Access Flow, Manage Fear, and Improve Performance (FREE)

Pro Clinic: Dr. David Spiegel on Self-Hypnosis to Access Flow, Manage Fear, and Improve Performance (FREE)

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggle...

29 Okt 202540min

Road to V8: Bouldering vs. Route Climbing, Can We Excel at Both?

Road to V8: Bouldering vs. Route Climbing, Can We Excel at Both?

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggle...

22 Okt 20251h 14min

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