Expert Analysis: Training with Dr. Tyler Nelson

Expert Analysis: Training with Dr. Tyler Nelson

Dr. Tyler Nelson from Camp 4 Human Performance joins the show to look back at Season 1's interviews with 10 of the biggest names in climbing to see what themes and takeaways there are through the lens of Training.

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Tyler is bringing cutting edge science to the world of training for climbing and, in the process, he is blowing up myths of training that we’ve long thought to be true and helping climbers, from pros like Alex Johnson to everyday climbers, identify exactly what types of training will take their climbing performance to new heights. In graduate school Tyler completed a dual doctorate/masters degree in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading and rehabilitation. He is also a certified strength and conditioning specialist through the NSCA and teaches conferences worldwide on a host of topics. Strap on your helmet, this one is packed with truth bombs!

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Topics:

  • Fast fingers vs strong fingers
  • Injury prevention and rehab
  • How to know when you're approaching junk mileage
  • Common plateaus and how to break through
  • The pyramid scheme

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This season is supported by PhysiVantage, the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Visit www.physivantage.com/discount/STRUGGLE15 to receive 15% off your full priced nutrition order.

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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

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Want to be a podcast hero and score yourself some rad limited edition swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @c4hp.

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Free Sticker Alert! Please rate and review the show -- it really helps us to reach a wider audience! Snap a pic of your review and post to IG and tag @thestruggleclimbingshow so that we can find you, and we'll send you a sticker just because you're rad.

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This show is hosted by Ryan Devlin and produced by Mary Mathis and Ryan Devlin, with additional support from Emily Holland.

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Let's climb hard and do good things in the world!

Episoder(186)

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Reflecting on 4 Years of Finger Strength Tests, Big Sends, Epic Adventures... and the Journal That I'm Using To Log It All

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Listen in as I flip through my 5-Year Training and Performance Journal to reflect on some of my test metrics, meaningful sends, and days out on rock over the past few years. What a journey!   Grab a c...

20 Des 202418min

Davis Ngo: Struggling with Progress, Overcoming Setbacks, and Finding Joy in the Community

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Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggle...

18 Des 20241h 16min

Fitz Cahall: Creating a Life of Adventure and Purpose

Fitz Cahall: Creating a Life of Adventure and Purpose

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggle...

11 Des 20241h 17min

Anna Hazelnutt | Crag Chat: Celebrating Big Sends, First Naked Ascents, Vegas Climbing, and More Foot Stuff

Anna Hazelnutt | Crag Chat: Celebrating Big Sends, First Naked Ascents, Vegas Climbing, and More Foot Stuff

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggle...

4 Des 202459min

Will Bosi: Sending four V17s, Simple Training for Power and Endurance, 5.15d / 9c+ Goals, the Problem with Downgrading

Will Bosi: Sending four V17s, Simple Training for Power and Endurance, 5.15d / 9c+ Goals, the Problem with Downgrading

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggle...

27 Nov 20241h 38min

Dr. Tyler Nelson: Pro Clinic on Building Endurance for Bouldering and Sport Climbing

Dr. Tyler Nelson: Pro Clinic on Building Endurance for Bouldering and Sport Climbing

In this Pro Clinic, Dr. Tyler Nelson covers: How to build climbing endurance for bouldering, sport climbing, and multi-pitch climbing Blood Flow Restriction and other off-the-wall interventions to...

20 Nov 202445min

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