How Does 30 Years of Climbing Affect Our Shoulders?

How Does 30 Years of Climbing Affect Our Shoulders?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a topic that every climber has to consider during their career - shoulder health - as examined in the study:

Impact of 30 Years High-Level Rock Climbing on the Shoulder: an Magnetic Resonance Imaging Study of 31 Climbers

authored by Silvan Beeler, MD, Torten Pastor, MD, Benjamin Fritz, MD, Lukas Filli, MD, Andreas Schweizer, MD, and Karl Weiser, MD; published in the Journal of Shoulder and Elbow Surgery in 2021.

They’ll attempt to determine whether or not we are truly trashing our shoulders more than others, and if so, what kind of impact this damage could have on our climbing performance. Tune in to find out if every iron-cross move is a potential trip to the operating room, or if there’s a good chance our shoulders just might be able to withstand the wear and tear.

*Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode: Physiological Bone Responses in the Fingers After More Than 10 Years of High-Level Sport Climbing: Analysis of Cortical Parameters authored by Frederik Hahn, MD, Matthias Erschbaumer, MD, Philipp Allenspach, MSc, Kaspar Rufibach, PhD, and Andreas Schweizer, MD; published in Wilderness & Environmental Medicine, 2012.

Ep. 153 of the Power Company Climbing Podcast: Pain Science for Climbers with Dr. Natasha Barnes

New episodes drop on Wednesdays. Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share! And please tell all of your weak-shouldered friends who insist that every shouldery move is going to result in surgery, that you have the perfect podcast for them.

Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website.

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If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub.

Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.

Episoder(28)

INTRODUCING | Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents

INTRODUCING | Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents

Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’ll hear the narrated, sound designed stories about what led to...

23 Okt 20238min

Can Beta-Alanine Supplementation Help You Send Your Sport Climbing Project?

Can Beta-Alanine Supplementation Help You Send Your Sport Climbing Project?

In the final episode of Season 2, Kris and Paul discuss beta-alanine, a nutritional supplement, and its impact on climbing performance as investigated in:   Beta-Alanine Supplementation and Sport Clim...

14 Sep 202231min

Are We Doing the Right Things When Warming Up for Climbing?

Are We Doing the Right Things When Warming Up for Climbing?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the difference between systematic and critical reviews, while examining what science says about warming up for sport in three reviews:   Current Approaches on Wa...

7 Sep 202252min

Are Chalking Up and Shaking Out Actually Helpful or Persistent Myths?

Are Chalking Up and Shaking Out Actually Helpful or Persistent Myths?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the dangers of reading only the abstracts of research papers, by taking a look at what science says about chalking up and shaking out. They’ll reference multiple...

31 Aug 202250min

What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers?

What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers?

In this episode, Kris and Paul chat with data analyst and fellow Power Company coach, Dale Wilson, to examine a study that attempts to collect and compare data from female climbers: Anthropometry and ...

24 Aug 202252min

Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing?

Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that explores how our attention - and where we focus it - can impact our performance: Links between Attention, Performance Pressure, and Movement in Skil...

17 Aug 202256min

Do Our Abilities Alter How We Perceive Hold or Move Size?

Do Our Abilities Alter How We Perceive Hold or Move Size?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that looks at the relationship between an athlete’s skill level and how they perceive their environment: Embodied perception in sport Authored by Rob Gra...

10 Aug 202252min

Can We Measure How Different Energy Systems Contribute to Climbing?

Can We Measure How Different Energy Systems Contribute to Climbing?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that investigates how different energy systems contribute to climbing performance: Climbing-Specific Exercise Tests: Energy System Contributions and Rela...

3 Aug 202253min

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