Can We Minimize Tendon Injury and Return More Quickly to Climbing?

Can We Minimize Tendon Injury and Return More Quickly to Climbing?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss another study examining a type of injury commonly seen in climbers:

Minimizing Injury and Maximizing Return to Play: Lessons from Engineered Ligaments

authored by Keith Baar, published in Sports Medicine (Springer Nature) in 2017.

They’ll attempt to determine whether or not there’s much we can do to help prevent tendon injuries and speed up recovery time when they do occur. Tune in to find out if that friend who swears their collagen supplements are the key to their fingers of steel is actually on to something, or totally full of it.

*Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode:

Stress Relaxation and Targeted Nutrition to Treat Patellar Tendinopathy authored by Keith Baar, published in the International Journal of Sport Nutrition and Exercise Metabolism, 2018.

New episodes drop on Wednesdays. Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share! And tell all of your friends who keep telling you that you should rest every single one of your tendon tweaks until they're gone, that you have the perfect podcast for them.

Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website.

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If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub.

Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.

Episoder(28)

INTRODUCING | Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents

INTRODUCING | Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents

Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’ll hear the narrated, sound designed stories about what led to...

23 Okt 20238min

Can Beta-Alanine Supplementation Help You Send Your Sport Climbing Project?

Can Beta-Alanine Supplementation Help You Send Your Sport Climbing Project?

In the final episode of Season 2, Kris and Paul discuss beta-alanine, a nutritional supplement, and its impact on climbing performance as investigated in:   Beta-Alanine Supplementation and Sport Clim...

14 Sep 202231min

Are We Doing the Right Things When Warming Up for Climbing?

Are We Doing the Right Things When Warming Up for Climbing?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the difference between systematic and critical reviews, while examining what science says about warming up for sport in three reviews:   Current Approaches on Wa...

7 Sep 202252min

Are Chalking Up and Shaking Out Actually Helpful or Persistent Myths?

Are Chalking Up and Shaking Out Actually Helpful or Persistent Myths?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the dangers of reading only the abstracts of research papers, by taking a look at what science says about chalking up and shaking out. They’ll reference multiple...

31 Aug 202250min

What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers?

What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers?

In this episode, Kris and Paul chat with data analyst and fellow Power Company coach, Dale Wilson, to examine a study that attempts to collect and compare data from female climbers: Anthropometry and ...

24 Aug 202252min

Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing?

Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that explores how our attention - and where we focus it - can impact our performance: Links between Attention, Performance Pressure, and Movement in Skil...

17 Aug 202256min

Do Our Abilities Alter How We Perceive Hold or Move Size?

Do Our Abilities Alter How We Perceive Hold or Move Size?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that looks at the relationship between an athlete’s skill level and how they perceive their environment: Embodied perception in sport Authored by Rob Gra...

10 Aug 202252min

Can We Measure How Different Energy Systems Contribute to Climbing?

Can We Measure How Different Energy Systems Contribute to Climbing?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that investigates how different energy systems contribute to climbing performance: Climbing-Specific Exercise Tests: Energy System Contributions and Rela...

3 Aug 202253min

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