Are We Doing the Right Things When Warming Up for Climbing?

Are We Doing the Right Things When Warming Up for Climbing?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the difference between systematic and critical reviews, while examining what science says about warming up for sport in three reviews:

Current Approaches on Warming up for Sports Performance: A Critical Review

Authored by Maria Helena Gil MD, Henrique P. Neiva PhD, António C. Sousa MD, Mário C. Marques PhD, and Daniel A. Marinho PhD; published in the Strength and Conditioning Journal in August, 2019.

&

A systematic review of the effects of upper body warm-up on performance and injury

Authored by J. Matt McCrary, Bronwen J. Ackermann, and Mark Halaki; published in the British Journal of Sports Medicine in July, 2015.

&

Upper-Body Post-activation Performance Enhancement for Athletic Performance: A Systematic Review with Meta-analysis and Recommendations for Future Research

Authored by Mitchell James Finlay, Craig Alan Bridge, Matt Greig, and Richard Michael Page; published in the Sports Medicine in November, 2021.

They’ll discuss the benefits of various warm-up activities like static or dynamic stretching, isometric movement, passive heating or cooling, and movement-specific activity. They’ll consider variables like duration, load, and volume — and the impact that warming up has been shown to have on performance.

*Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode:

Biomechanical properties of the crimp grip position in rock climbers Authored by Andreas Schweizer; published in the Journal of Biomechanics in February, 2001.

Effects of warming-up on physical performance: a systematic review with meta-analysis Authored by Andrea J. Fradkin, Tsharni R. Zazryn, and James M. Smoliga; published in the Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research in January, 2010.

New episodes of Breaking Beta drop on Wednesdays. Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share!

And please, tell all of your friends who warm up their fingers on a flash board and think they are ready to try their hardest, that you have the perfect podcast for them.

Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website.

Season 2 of Breaking Beta is proudly supported by Gnarly Sports Nutrition. For a limited time, Breaking Beta listeners can take 15% off their purchase using the code BETA15 at checkout! Or simply click the link above to shop and have the discount automatically applied.

Follow Kris and Breaking Beta on Instagram

Follow Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram

If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub.

Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.

Episoder(28)

INTRODUCING | Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents

INTRODUCING | Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents

Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’ll hear the narrated, sound designed stories about what led to...

23 Okt 20238min

Can Beta-Alanine Supplementation Help You Send Your Sport Climbing Project?

Can Beta-Alanine Supplementation Help You Send Your Sport Climbing Project?

In the final episode of Season 2, Kris and Paul discuss beta-alanine, a nutritional supplement, and its impact on climbing performance as investigated in:   Beta-Alanine Supplementation and Sport Clim...

14 Sep 202231min

Are Chalking Up and Shaking Out Actually Helpful or Persistent Myths?

Are Chalking Up and Shaking Out Actually Helpful or Persistent Myths?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the dangers of reading only the abstracts of research papers, by taking a look at what science says about chalking up and shaking out. They’ll reference multiple...

31 Aug 202250min

What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers?

What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers?

In this episode, Kris and Paul chat with data analyst and fellow Power Company coach, Dale Wilson, to examine a study that attempts to collect and compare data from female climbers: Anthropometry and ...

24 Aug 202252min

Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing?

Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that explores how our attention - and where we focus it - can impact our performance: Links between Attention, Performance Pressure, and Movement in Skil...

17 Aug 202256min

Do Our Abilities Alter How We Perceive Hold or Move Size?

Do Our Abilities Alter How We Perceive Hold or Move Size?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that looks at the relationship between an athlete’s skill level and how they perceive their environment: Embodied perception in sport Authored by Rob Gra...

10 Aug 202252min

Can We Measure How Different Energy Systems Contribute to Climbing?

Can We Measure How Different Energy Systems Contribute to Climbing?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that investigates how different energy systems contribute to climbing performance: Climbing-Specific Exercise Tests: Energy System Contributions and Rela...

3 Aug 202253min

Populært innen Vitenskap

fastlegen
tingenes-tilstand
rekommandert
jss
rss-rekommandert
sinnsyn
forskningno
liberal-halvtime
rss-nysgjerrige-norge
villmarksliv
dekodet-2
rss-paradigmepodden
rss-inn-til-kjernen-med-sunniva-rose
fjellsportpodden
hva-er-greia-med
tomprat-med-gunnar-tjomlid
tidlose-historier
abels-tarn
vett-og-vitenskap-med-gaute-einevoll
diagnose