TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger

TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger

In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the tactics she used to send Silky Smooth, 5.13c (8a+) in the Red River Gorge last week without training endurance beforehand. She went into the trip feeling like she had low endurance, in fact, but she used specific tactics to send the route in 7 sessions.

There are a lot of little tips and tricks in this episode, and so many observations that Alex has made over the years about endurance climbing, including:

  • Maintaining Composure
  • Breathing
  • Pump Management
  • Nailing Sequences instead of Winging It
  • Eliminating Fear
  • Managing Discomforts
  • Increasing Confidence
  • Having Patience with the Process
  • Dealing with Cold Weather Climbing
  • Eating for Cold Weather Pumpy Climbing

We actually spent quite a bit of time talking about making climbing in the cold more tolerable, so if you're a cold-a-phobe like I used to be, this is a good one to listen to!

I learned some things from this episode, and Alex is really good at calling out issues and then making very relatable, useful suggestions that you can put into practice right away.

Show Links

Episoder(250)

TBP 235 :: How to Get Better at Climbing by Watching World Cups

TBP 235 :: How to Get Better at Climbing by Watching World Cups

In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what she learns from watching all of the Climbing World Cups and how she uses those videos to teach her clients about their own climbing. You can p...

19 Jul 20231h 24min

TBP 234: Thomas Cunningham on Biohacking for Climbing Performance

TBP 234: Thomas Cunningham on Biohacking for Climbing Performance

Back in April, I published an episode with Thomas Cunningham all about how he trains efficiently as a busy dad and ER physician to be able to send up to 5.14c projects in only 10-15 days outside climb...

13 Jul 20231h 25min

TBP 232: A Roadmap and a Checklist for Sending Route Projects Faster

TBP 232: A Roadmap and a Checklist for Sending Route Projects Faster

In this episode, I sat down with Coach Matt Pincus to talk about his infamous "checklist" that he uses when he's projecting a route (or a boulder – but usually routes). As a coach, often Matt's job is...

24 Mai 20231h 12min

TBP 231: Common Sense Energy Systems Training with Alex and Matt

TBP 231: Common Sense Energy Systems Training with Alex and Matt

In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients in the different energy systems. The "energy systems" we're talking about are po...

10 Mai 20231h 39min

TBP 230 :: Alex Stiger on How to Approach the Different Angles of Climbing

TBP 230 :: Alex Stiger on How to Approach the Different Angles of Climbing

Steep Climbing Workshop May 2nd, 2023 Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 2-hour presentation + Q&A on how to train for steep climbing on the wall and off the wall. She'll be using a series of videos and o...

26 Apr 20231h 18min

TBP 229: Thomas Cunningham Climbs 14c as an ER Doc and Father of 3

TBP 229: Thomas Cunningham Climbs 14c as an ER Doc and Father of 3

A couple weeks ago, Sam Elias texted me and said, "Hey. This ER doctor here in Louisville just sent his first 14c... He's SUPER intelligent and really researched about training, nutrition, and persona...

19 Apr 20231h 25min

TBP 228 :: Majka Burhardt on Being a Pro Climber while Raising Twins

TBP 228 :: Majka Burhardt on Being a Pro Climber while Raising Twins

In this interview I talk with professional ice and mixed climber, Majka Burhardt, about her new book, More. In it, she describes the transition she went through from being a full-time pro climber to h...

30 Mar 20231h 10min

TBP 227: How to Stay Motivated (Almost) All the Time with Alex Stiger

TBP 227: How to Stay Motivated (Almost) All the Time with Alex Stiger

Climbing Fitness Breakthrough Series Before we get started, Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 4-part series all about how to increase your overall climbing fitness. She will do 4 weekly 90-minute zoom ca...

15 Mar 20231h 31min

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